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Discussion Starter #1
Hi I have a 95 bncr33 v spec jusy damaged engine got 150 psi in 5 cylenders
and 55 psi in 6th cylender going to rebuild engine needing ideas for costs and best parts to use

Was running GT-RS twin turbos at 1.59 bar
std turbo elbows

modified chrome tt pipe

1000 cc rc injectors

280l intank fuel pump

apexi pfc

apexi AVCR

Apexi filters

Hks hyper silent full system

std air flows

std engine

large intercooler oil cooler and rad

Hardpipe kit

looking to give car to garage get them to remove rebuild and re install fordged engine how much will this cost roughly? help
 

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Hi there...
You have a few mismatched parts here really...

The low compression problem you are having will be a broken ring land, detonation can be a major cause of this...

The GT-RS turbos are good for about 700BHP at full chat and your injectors will easily supply enough fuel to support that, however your fuel pump won't. It depends what sort of power level you will be looking to attain...
The standard air flow meters max out at around 450-480 BHP, with your boost pressure set at almost 1.6 bar you will have been making quite a bit more than this, which means whoever mapped the power FC will have had to do a bit of a work around the limitations set by the afm's, which isn't an ideal solution...
It is prefectly possible to run 600 BHP on a standard bottom end, I did on my own car for 2 years, even had a standard head gasket, just had a good fuel system and was well mapped...

In the following recommendations, I am making the assumption that you don't have the GT-RS torbos fitted so you can bimble around at the speed limit all the time, that you would like some decent reliable power...

Overbore to 87mm fit forged pistons and rods (Wossner)
Balance and polish crank
ACL race series bearings
Bigger oil pump
Either extend sump or fit Tomei sump baffle
Tomei MLS head gasket set and oil restrictor
Tomei Poncams and adj cam wheels
Refurb head and maybe a mild porting job (remove exhaust lumps)
ARP head studs
Turbo elbows (std ones are quite restrictive)
Port the std exhaust manifolds or aftermarket tubular ones
For over 580 bhp you will need to modify the fuel system
Either go for z32 afm's or sell the PFC and change to a management that will run on a map sensor (F-con, Haltech, Link etc)
Clutch to handle the power!!!
Oil cooler to handle the heat!!!

Some of the above items are not a must have... This spec of engine will make 650 BHP and be reliable, The downside is for all the above you won't see much change from 10K :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi
thanks for the advice 10k is alot of money dont know if i want to spend that kind of money on such a old car
but on the other hand it will make a good relyable car
yeah i new my injectors were a little large and fuel pump etc was not enough

need to do somthing about PFC or airflows may go for z32 AFM's

Can i get a good rebuild for under £5000 ?



The low compression problem you are having will be a broken ring land, detonation can be a major cause of this...

The GT-RS turbos are good for about 700BHP at full chat and your injectors will easily supply enough fuel to support that, however your fuel pump won't. It depends what sort of power level you will be looking to attain...
The standard air flow meters max out at around 450-480 BHP, with your boost pressure set at almost 1.6 bar you will have been making quite a bit more than this, which means whoever mapped the power FC will have had to do a bit of a work around the limitations set by the afm's, which isn't an ideal solution...
It is prefectly possible to run 600 BHP on a standard bottom end, I did on my own car for 2 years, even had a standard head gasket, just had a good fuel system and was well mapped...

In the following recommendations, I am making the assumption that you don't have the GT-RS torbos fitted so you can bimble around at the speed limit all the time, that you would like some decent reliable power...

Overbore to 87mm fit forged pistons and rods (Wossner)
Balance and polish crank
ACL race series bearings
Bigger oil pump
Either extend sump or fit Tomei sump baffle
Tomei MLS head gasket set and oil restrictor
Tomei Poncams and adj cam wheels
Refurb head and maybe a mild porting job (remove exhaust lumps)
ARP head studs
Turbo elbows (std ones are quite restrictive)
Port the std exhaust manifolds or aftermarket tubular ones
For over 580 bhp you will need to modify the fuel system
Either go for z32 afm's or sell the PFC and change to a management that will run on a map sensor (F-con, Haltech, Link etc)
Clutch to handle the power!!!
Oil cooler to handle the heat!!!

Some of the above items are not a must have... This spec of engine will make 650 BHP and be reliable, The downside is for all the above you won't see much change from 10K :thumbsup:[/QUOTE]
 

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what bout buying an already forged engine and swapping it in... i think benw is selling one in the ads


with ur tubbies wich are my dream ones...gt-rs yummmmmm id go rb30 bottom end...if ur on a budget like me id just go for a stocker internals then spend me dough on good tuning n setup
 

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The most important thing is to decide either how much you can spend or what you want from the engine.

These are directly linked, decide these and the spec will pretty much choose itself .

The only thing you can save money on is not overspeccing single items. Do the engine to a spec where all parts are of the same level. Go for it in one go and leave it there.

BTW theres no such thing as a decent cheap RB26 rebuild (but you probabl;y know that )
 
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