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Discussion Starter #21
Great stuff mate cheers for all of that.

Great read
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Right i have followed the tutorial and still can't get it to work correctly. In map watch after i have setup and installed the anolog outputs off my lm-1 it doesnt give me a full figure for AFR. It only gives me an afr of say 10,11,12 not with a decimal like 11.3,11.7 ect.

I have done lots of searching and cant find any info on here or on the Innovate forum plus my account would let me post on there for some reason. There was a guy with the same problem and Samerai sam ( i Guess the same guy from off here) said to turn off the basic watch in the monitor section but i have done that and still no joy.

Any idea's?
 

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Discussion Starter #24
So if i just set it to one that that will be it? Cheers for the help mate:)
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Finally got it sorted thanks to waxer 52:) I owe you mate. I have been out there all day configuring stuff and playing around and all i had to do i select a decimal point in the menu:)

Here are the results. The gearbox rebuild with os giken center plate has just taken some seroius abuse:) The car now spins the wheels from 1st t0 2nd and 2nd to third.:) It even keeps the turbo on boost when changing gear where is used to drop off and wait to spool again.:)



You can see it is really rich on the top end when on boost.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Right making progress now :D

I have been out there driving and mapping as long as the battery lasted on the laptop. I have got it into the 11.8s on full boost now so its running alot better. My injector duty on the 1000cc's has gone from 80% down to 66.5%. So thats alot better. The car pulls so much stronger on full boost now

I have had to rip shed loads of fuel out on the top end now to get it down to what it is now.

Here is a screen shot of the map compared to what it was. The bits in red are fuel taken away. Also i have the monitor on there to show the max and peak of everything along with the new logged afr table.



It has almost the same afrs now as when it was mapped and made the 500 hubs figure :lol: I could of gone alot further with the map but the battery went dead and I'm on my own trying to map, check afrs and then drive then thing flat out in 3rd :eek: Plus it's raining and lossing traction in places :shock: Using the same bit of road with the noise of the car is abit dodgy. :lol:

I will put an afr graph up as soon as i have downloaded it
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Here is the afr graph compared to the old one. Not bad but almost the same as when it got mapped. I have to lean off the very end of it as there is a spike to rich but the battery died before i could do it.

Dotted line is the old one.

 

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Discussion Starter #29
Well i took the car to work last night to continue mapping. I thought at 3am on the M3 would be perfect but the battery died on the maptop before i even got there so i couldn't log my afrs. The car is pulling like crazy now. Put it this way just getting on boost in 3rd now spins the wheels going down the motorway last night.

As the laptop was dead i thought i would sort the boost controller out as the settings are well of. The gain was in the 30's so i knocked it down to the recomended 10 and the boost went from a poorly holding 1.5 bar to 1.8 :eek: So i have set high boost for 1.6 and low at 1.4 but will add more when i get on the dyno.

I cant get over how ****ing quick it is now compared to when it was going round silverstone. It brain ****ing material as it pull's so hard on boost now but there is still more to come. I have to do a bit of fine tuning on the afrs and then start with the ignition timing. It even comes on boost a little sooner now. :D :D :D

Just going off the injector duty now on 1.6 bar with the fueling correct and learner it works out to around 670bhp but i doubt that but feels faster then the old 600 bhp :)
 

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looks good - it's just that idle and off-bost AFR that can go leaner. I set my idle to 15:1 (when warm) and I try to set my cruise AFRs in the 14s N05~N06 and P01~P08 or so.

Your on boost full load AFR in the 11s looks spot on.

When I map for ignition, I use knock - PFC and det cans - I have four knock sensors on my engine. Listening picks up things the Power FC filters out on the graph, and vice versa. With turbo engines, you generally make the most power just before knocking (with N/A engines, it becomes far more complicated, with knock and MBT virtually unrelated). So I advance while trying to keep within certain knock limits - 25 knock, for example. When the knock graph starts to get spikey, or I hear anything on my headphones, I back off and there's the setting.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Cheers for that mate.

I know my idle is way to rich at the moment but i cant get it below 11.3 without adjusting the Afm voltage in the setings. Really struggling to get the afrs down. I just keep guessing with the ammount of fuel i remove and then go for a run to see how it has gone. There has to be a way of telling how much you have to remove to get the right afr's?
 

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I actually do not change fueling on the map - I adjust injector lag at idle until I get the AFR I want. More lag gets richer, less lag gets leaner. I basically play with the lag, balancing idle smoothness with AFR. If the injector lag is too lean, the idle will go to crap. If it's too rich, you'll overfuel when you drive. If you do this with the engine stone cold though, everything will be off as the engine runs a rich idle during warmup - if I'm pegged at 15:1 idle, on a cold start I'll see 12.5:1. I used to adjust AFR at that point, and then when the car warmed up, I'd go off the scale (leaner than 16:1) and my idle would become lumpy and surging. Live and learn :)

Note: this means you'll have to start over on the rest of your fueling map, because injector lag times are (I think) global settings.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Yea i played with my injector lags and did get it to drop into the 14's but it was poping and farting. I just losing my rag with it at the moment. It started smoking on cold start today and i hope its just the massivly rich idle. It grey in colour and my catch tank is still empty so i hope there's nothing to worry about.


I have been droping the air flow meter voltage verse fuel in settings 3 menu and it did work but i have to drop it massivly from 0.64v = 100 down to like 30 and then the 1.82v down to say 70. This does bring the afr down to what i want but as soon as you blip the throttle it hesitates?
 

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Have you tried the "interpolate" function ??
It gets you started on a fueling base map quickly. Just set your desired injector correction for the top left and bottom right cells. Then highlight the entire map and right click interpolate.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #35
I will have a look into that mate. Sounds good.

Well just started mapping on the way to work today. I brought it on boost in 3rd and then the car started holding back and dieing. Pulled over on the M3 and it wouldn't idle. I thought straight away that i blow an intercoolwer hose off. Had a look round and couldn't find anything wrong. Just about to call the AA after about 30mins trying to find a problem took another look at the boost hose in the dark and the one behind the bumper on the drivers side had blowen off. I called my lady and she brought the tools and torch to me. Took the bumper off on the hard sholder and put the hose back on, all sorted. Dont you just love it when that happens.:)

I have started to get my head round it now but because i have turned the boost up it is using a different row on the load side of the map so i have a little bit of playing around and i should be there. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Well getting there. This is the afr graph for 1.6 bar now. Needs fine tuning but i need it to be on a dyno to hold it in certain cells. I will keep playing with it but it is close to where i want it. I just have to do the cursing speeds and around toen stuff to make it have a better MPG. Doing this mapping i have done £160 in fuel and only done about 150 miles :eek:



And here is the new Pikey racing hard pipe kit. :lol: It won't expand now and pop off.

 

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Discussion Starter #38
Cheers mate. Yea it has taken all week to figure out what im doing. Getting there but still have to learn a few things yet.

I might even take it down to USC at the pod tomorrow to see of its any quicker.
 

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I've got double bands on either end of the pipe that likes to go pop on my car :p


Isn't it ironic that the most serious failures seem so innocuous - a curious little rattle (big-end failure, say goodbye to 10 grand!), or the pistons just giving up and the only way you know is from the HUGE smokescreen you're now laying down behind you?

And yet when you go BANG! and the car dies dramatically...you just reconnect the pipe and go on your merry way?
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Yea it was funny as the wide band went right of the scale. It doesn't read below 9 and it was bang on it .

It always the same one. Driver side lower that always comes off and it's the worst to get to. I dont have an n/s arch liner so that would be easy to fix. :)
 
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