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Dont know if anyone is electrically minded but I believe my tuner has diagnosed a problem with my car which may well require a new alternator..

Voltage is low at all times, the 4wd and A-LSD lights are coming on, sometimes from start up sometimes when on the road.. Fault code suggests it is the throttle position switch giving wrong voltage, we believe the two are linked and as such I think a new alternator will resolve this, my two questions are..

Does this sound like something anyone understands or has experienced?

and does anyone know what to do regards replacing the alternator and is it worth uprating it at all?

I know that was kind of two and a half questions but I hope someone can help..

Thanks
 

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Owner of the MSNSPS
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I assume that you have a multimeter. If so I would check the voltage at the alternator. If it's producing less than ~14.1v it's most likely knackered. If it is OK then you have a bad earth somewhere and you'll have to trace it.

If the alternator is chuffed then replacing it would clearly solve your problem. From memory the unit is 90A (I'm assuming that R33 is the same as the previou versions). There are a number of options: same again, bit more (120A I think) or lots more (180A+).

What's the point in upgrading the alternator? If you're not running any more electrical systems then really none. It will sap (more) power from the engine. Personally I'd put a bigger one as a just in case but then I plan to add more electical systems in the future.
 

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also if you have a amps clamp, pop it round the earth cable leading to the battery to check the amprage that the battery is giving out or taking back, do this on full load (all electrics on) and all offif you get a negative reading when everything is on you defo need a altinator
but as cris said the voltage at the altinator is a good way to test them

alex
 

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good advice, I think my car needs some testing. I slapped on an Infiniti 160amp alternator (I have a big stereo and my A/C fan runs anytime the A/C is engaged, plus the zillion gauges and the wideband that needs to be heated all the time, etc)
 

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try fitting a power cap mate that just may stable the amp flow from the batt enough (especially on those heavy bass notes when the amp is drawing max power)

alex
 
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