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Discussion Starter #1
Hi
Does anyone have a LM1000 or JM1000 or similar? I have decided to go for the plunge and early next year upgrade my 4.25 to somewhere around 900-1000hp with 800ftlb (enough ooomph to spank a stage 2 M5 F90 :)) . My question is what sort of performance difference is there between say 700ftlb and 800ftlb at this level of HP?

Thanks.
 

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Hi
Does anyone have a LM1000 or JM1000 or similar? I have decided to go for the plunge and early next year upgrade my 4.25 to somewhere around 900-1000hp with 800ftlb (enough ooomph to spank a stage 2 M5 F90 :)) . My question is what sort of performance difference is there between say 700ftlb and 800ftlb at this level of HP?

Thanks.
Its more a case of how much can you put to the road, the difference in 100ft lbs of torque is very noticeable.
 

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I went from a stage 4.25 to 1100 bhp and 870 ft/lb and the it's a considerable difference. The relative tractability and in gear pull is impressive. A 4.25 isn't exactly a slow car but the upgrade is noticeably faster.
 

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I'd say it's a significant performance difference. Is there any reason why you consider 700 ft/lb?
Think both numbers require fully built trans.
 

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I presume your reasoning is 700 lbft won't require new gears in the gr6 whereas 800 lbft will.
I've got one at 730 lbft and another at 1000 lbft and with r888 tyres there is a huge difference in the level of grip, 730 lbft puts it all down with relative ease but 1000 lbft is a struggle
Really hinges on what you want from the car and how big your wallet is, personally I can't see much point going to the expense of a built box just to run 800 lbft, I'd either go 900 lbft on a Built box or 700ish on stock gears with a capped boost curve to keep torque below 730 but still make your 1000 hp target higher up in the rpm range
 

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Currently goIng for What I will call my Swansong GTR on a MY17, currently LM 4.25. Everything is being upgraded will update when done which should be in a few weeks. However I’m not going for a massive turbo just stage 4 IHI (Maximum response track/fast road as I wont be living in the high RPM band for the majority of my driving). Being done by SVM but it includes suspension, transmission/gears, engine, interior, audio, practical weight reduction, brakes, induction, cooling, fuelling, etc. They have posted a few pictures on their facebook site.

Scooby Slayer for your car with 1000 lb/ft what is the transmission/gear spec?
 

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Gearbox
PPG V3 1-6GEARS
INPUT AND OUTPUT SHAFTS UPRATED
REAR DSS AXLE STUB KIT
EXTREME 20 PLATE CLUTCH
LINNEY DROP GEARS
BILLET GEARBOX FORKS
ALBINS SYCRO RINGS
LINNEY ETS carbon PLATES
DIFF BRACE BOX
MY17 BELLHOUSING
MY17 PLATE

This one is JM built, my 730 lbft car is svm built
 

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Can you run 700lbft on the stock box? I’m probably wrong, but I thought 640lbft was the limit. I know Litchfields cap at 620-30lbft.


I presume your reasoning is 700 lbft won't require new gears in the gr6 whereas 800 lbft will.
I've got one at 730 lbft and another at 1000 lbft and with r888 tyres there is a huge difference in the level of grip, 730 lbft puts it all down with relative ease but 1000 lbft is a struggle
Really hinges on what you want from the car and how big your wallet is, personally I can't see much point going to the expense of a built box just to run 800 lbft, I'd either go 900 lbft on a Built box or 700ish on stock gears with a capped boost curve to keep torque below 730 but still make your 1000 hp target higher up in the rpm range
 

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Can you run 700lbft on the stock box? I’m probably wrong, but I thought 640lbft was the limit. I know Litchfields cap at 620-30lbft.

All I can tell you is this built by svm about 7 years ago
840 crank hp on petrol 730 lbft crank dyno plot below

263418


On hub dyno on ethanol makes 928 hub hp 1000 nm hub torque
I've never drag raced it only rolling racing but loads of hard use no issues at all with this gearbox spec by svm
I do have Dyna pack plots for petrol and ethanol runs but I can't find them yet it's 6 years ago I bought the car

Svm heat treated and superfinished gear set
Svm/GTC 16*Plate*Clutch*kit
Modified Baskets with Weld fix
Dodson gearbox circlips
Dodson drive locks
Dodson oil magnets
Titek diff brace
 

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Managed to find my old dynoplots in photobucket account

Petrol 1.5 bar and e50 1.8 bar turbos flat out power flatlined approx 960 crank hp

263419


263420
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for your replies guys, I know it won't be cheap but I am prepared to go to about 40k (including some decent brakes too) I have a real thing for being quicker than mildly tuned 4 door saloons and the new M5 comp with a stage 2 has made me want to up my game :cool:

DocT
Wow those are some nice figures, thats the sort of thing I really want to feel is in gear pull but still have the car drivable

Archan
I was thinking of the possibility of running 700 on stock gearing but I know its a gamble.

Scrooby slayer
Yes exactly that mate, like yourself my friend ran 700ftlb for years on stock gearing and had no problem. I then thought 800ftlb as I have heard a few people say this is the upper limit without making the car a total handful (I realise this is all subjective to drivers ability and conditions)
Do you find your higher power R35 that less drivable than your other one?
I guess what I want is a very fast street car which is going to pull on 850hp "super saloons" but ist going to be undrivable most of the time (if thats possible)
Lovely build BTW

Reano
Nice, I would like to hear a little more when you have that done mate 👍

Cheers
 

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What I told Iain was the same as you, driveability as well as hypercar performance. He advised a 4.6 with EFR 7663 and no regrets so far.

I’m sure it can run more power but I live in the sticks with 97 RON being the most accessible so it’s running a pretty safe tune and if I want to go nuts in the future I guess I could push it even further.
 

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Thanks for your replies guys, I know it won't be cheap but I am prepared to go to about 40k (including some decent brakes too) I have a real thing for being quicker than mildly tuned 4 door saloons and the new M5 comp with a stage 2 has made me want to up my game :cool:

DocT
Wow those are some nice figures, thats the sort of thing I really want to feel is in gear pull but still have the car drivable

Archan
I was thinking of the possibility of running 700 on stock gearing but I know its a gamble.

Scrooby slayer
Yes exactly that mate, like yourself my friend ran 700ftlb for years on stock gearing and had no problem. I then thought 800ftlb as I have heard a few people say this is the upper limit without making the car a total handful (I realise this is all subjective to drivers ability and conditions)
Do you find your higher power R35 that less drivable than your other one?
I guess what I want is a very fast street car which is going to pull on 850hp "super saloons" but ist going to be undrivable most of the time (if thats possible)
Lovely build BTW

Reano
Nice, I would like to hear a little more when you have that done mate 👍

Cheers

It's not undriveavble, my lower power car does 100-200 kph in 4.3 seconds best of several runs

Have done one pull in my race car 100-200 kph in 3.14 seconds so far but spinning in that pull aswell so will go quicker still with more grip and a higher percentage of ethanol in the tank

Yes it's nowhere near as responsive as my road gtr but that's what a gearbox and high revs are for, has to be kept above 5500 rpm for full power

If I ever need to sell one it will be my 960 hp one no question
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks Guys... this has given me some food for thought.
Ideally I'd like a car that could do 10 dead in the quarter and very low 4s in the 100-200kph but still drives well as a daily... I will do some more researching 👍
 

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Thanks Guys... this has given me some food for thought.
Ideally I'd like a car that could do 10 dead in the quarter and very low 4s in the 100-200kph but still drives well as a daily... I will do some more researching 👍
From my car the times were 812 hub hp 100-200 4.8 seconds, 928 hub hp 100-200 4.3 seconds
 
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Thanks Guys... this has given me some food for thought.
Ideally I'd like a car that could do 10 dead in the quarter and very low 4s in the 100-200kph but still drives well as a daily... I will do some more researching 👍
Thats exactly what i would like,in the 4s and a low 10 sec car. Most cars would struggle to keep with that,apart from a Maclaren 720s! cant believe how quick those cars are against much higher output cars.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thats exactly what i would like,in the 4s and a low 10 sec car. Most cars would struggle to keep with that,apart from a Maclaren 720s! cant believe how quick those cars are against much higher output cars.
This is what I was thinking too.. although a 1100HP seems to do it...
:)
 

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Not clear from the above Dyno Plots whether they are engine BHP or Wheel BHP.

Here is my build thread:- 1200 BHP project build

I have maximum 1025 Wheel HP and over 1000 Wheel HP from 5500RPM to 7500RPM

Wheel Torque is as follows:-

3000 RPM 450 ft/lbs
4000RPM 780 ft/lbs
5000 RPM 950 ft/lbs

Depending on who you talk to you will see the translation of wheel to engine between 15% and 22%

Mine is a barrel of laughs to drive, probably over 1200BHP engine.

You wanted to know the difference between 700 & 800 ft/lbs, you do not say whether that is engine or wheel power?
 
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