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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Guys,

I'm currently saving up to get an R32 GTR and have been since selling 350hp 180sx. I've always wanted one and with me turning 30 this year I thought "What better present!" :cool:

R32 GTR's are commanding similar money to E46 M3's which work very well on track and come with many creature comforts the GTR does not, but TBH, I've had a want for a GTR for nearly 10 years after I got a shot of Dangerous Daves RB Motorsport built car.

I keep hearing issues regarding fitting an oil drain like its a 100% necessity if you put your car anywhere near a track, I'd like to know if this is true? Also if this is required, what is the average cost to have one fitted?

I don't plan on going all out on a car, something with Steel Turbos, fuelling upgrades and an appropriate management, I guess this will see me around [email protected] wheel easy enough?

I'd like to know how those who use their weekend cars on track how life is with them? Lots of problems? No problems?

Thanks,

Willie
 

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Buy one, they are the business:) Mine's setup for the track and has done a decent number of track miles in the last year with very little problems on track.

400 flywheel is plenty of fun and isn't stressing everything else too much :)

Basics:
Safe map in the ECU
Steel turbos (ideally -7 or -9 at that power level)
Suspension (coilovers, adjustable camber and caster arms to get decent track geo)
Brakes (bigger the better)
Oil control (oil cooler, head drain or restrictor, baffled sump ideally)

If you can find one with recent engine work by any of the known guys: RB, Abbey, MGT, RK etc so much the better.

RB26 do spin bearings, so don't do donuts in Tesco's car park, don't bounce it off the limiter, don't launch it, don't rush the gearbox, basically have some mechanical sympathy and they're not that unreliable.

A bad R32 is a money pit so you want one with plenty of bills attached ideally that's been well maintained.
 

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If you are going to track it, fit a decent oil pump N1 with a reimax steel gear and a sump baffle such as tomei or nismo. While that is being done you may as well get the rod end bolts changed too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Buy one, they are the business:) Mine's setup for the track and has done a decent number of track miles in the last year with very little problems on track.

400 flywheel is plenty of fun and isn't stressing everything else too much :)

Basics:
Safe map in the ECU
Steel turbos (ideally -7 or -9 at that power level)
Suspension (coilovers, adjustable camber and caster arms to get decent track geo)
Brakes (bigger the better)
Oil control (oil cooler, head drain or restrictor, baffled sump ideally)

If you can find one with recent engine work by any of the known guys: RB, Abbey, MGT, RK etc so much the better.

RB26 do spin bearings, so don't do donuts in Tesco's car park, don't bounce it off the limiter, don't launch it, don't rush the gearbox, basically have some mechanical sympathy and they're not that unreliable.

A bad R32 is a money pit so you want one with plenty of bills attached ideally that's been well maintained.

Thanks for the advice. I'll be buying one as a fresh import from either JM-Imports or Harlow Jap Auto. They both seem to have very good reputations.

My days of Tesco's donuts have long past, I do like driving fast but I have always had mechanical sympathy, I would probably have more with a GTR as I want to keep it in good condition as they are becoming rare and valuable cars.

On your post you mentioned Oil control. My first post asks if the head drain is a necessity? I assume when you mentioned it, you believe it is. What is the total cost of parts and fitting from a reputable garage? I'm curious to know if its £100 for the parts and £100 for fitting, then its almost stupid not to, but if it is an engine out job with £500+ labour attached to it I begin to question things.

Thanks.

FRRACER said:
If you are going to track it, fit a decent oil pump N1 with a reimax steel gear and a sump baffle such as tomei or nismo. While that is being done you may as well get the rod end bolts changed too
When things like this get mentioned it makes me consider forgetting about a GTR and getting something like an M3 that will work out the box. I understand older cars need some additional maintenance but when that "fit part X, Y and while its out Z" mentality takes a possibly £10k purchase have an additional £2k worth of work to make it "safe"
 

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Thanks for the advice. I'll be buying one as a fresh import from either JM-Imports or Harlow Jap Auto. They both seem to have very good reputations.

My days of Tesco's donuts have long past, I do like driving fast but I have always had mechanical sympathy, I would probably have more with a GTR as I want to keep it in good condition as they are becoming rare and valuable cars.

On your post you mentioned Oil control. My first post asks if the head drain is a necessity? I assume when you mentioned it, you believe it is. What is the total cost of parts and fitting from a reputable garage? I'm curious to know if its £100 for the parts and £100 for fitting, then its almost stupid not to, but if it is an engine out job with £500+ labour attached to it I begin to question things.

Thanks.



When things like this get mentioned it makes me consider forgetting about a GTR and getting something like an M3 that will work out the box. I understand older cars need some additional maintenance but when that "fit part X, Y and while its out Z" mentality takes a possibly £10k purchase have an additional £2k worth of work to make it "safe"
I fresh import can be tricky, R32s are very sought after in Japan and it's not always the best ones that leave the country. The service history may be non existant. Sometimes they'll be bitsas that have been thrown together to make a complete car for export, which might look quite nice on the surface but be a total shed.

Hehe, no offence intended re the Tescos car park comment, and to be fair these day's R32s don't attract that sort of crowd anymore. A few years back the standard noob lifecycle was "hi everyone I've bought and r32 gtr", the a week later "my engine is making a knocking noise" or "my engine has eaten a turbo" or "hicas made me crash into a tree" then "R32 breaking all parts available" etc.

Different tuners manage the head oiling issue in different ways, the underyling problem as I understand it is that the head easily fills with oil, which means lots of oil going back in the PCV and less oil in the sump. One way to fix it is to put a bigger drain in from the head to the sump another is to put a restrictor in the oil gallery that feeds the head. The restrictor is very cheap, but you need the head off to fit it so it's not something you want to do by itself to be cost effective.

Basically most UK cars will have had engine work by now, and if one of those guys that I listed did the work, it will have had at very least the basics done, and of course there will be bills to check. That's why I say buy a good UK car.

I think £10 budget + £2k post purchase prep - is probably about right for a nice car that will work on the track. Just to scare you; I bought mine a year ago for £6.5k and put £15k into it easily over the year - it's nothing dramatic 450fwhp, suspension, wheels, brakes etc. But then it's as much fun as a £40k 996 GT3 so I'd say it was a bargain!

The difference with the E46 M3 (which I love) is; it's not godzilla, it doesn't have the same potential for supercar performance levels, and on track days no one will come up to you and say "what the hell is that and why is it so fast?!" :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for more details.

I know the risks with imported cars, most of my cars have been imports. The issue I find with UK cars is they are either cheap (sub 7k) and need body work fixing, secret issues due to lying seller and/or modded by a moron.

I wouldn't consider a car thats sub 7k as I don't believe R32's at that price bracket are honest. The other side of the spectrum is UK cars which have been modded to a very high level, this I am worried about aswell as my 180 was a fully forged rebuild with receipts etc and it still died.

I'd rather start at the bottom ie a clean, standard R32 GTR and work my way up from there. That way I know exactly what I've done to it. :) TBH I'd probably buy a car that is a fresh import but in the UK, that way I can look round it.

No offence taken with the Tesco comment, the big kid comes out in us all. I'd just rather a car I can enjoy. My 180 had action like that (more on track) and it was good, but it was noisy, clunky and it lost its appeal to drive.

I've more saving to go, but I'll take your points on board.
 

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As mentioned, biggest thing is oil control!
Personally, a baffled sump isn't enough, get an extended sump fitted (I spun a bearing on the track with a Tomei sump baffle)
An oil cooler is a must on the track
A good catch can system
Make sure you run no less than half a tank of fuel to avoid fuel surge
They are big heavy cars, so the right coil overs help a lot
Decent, heavy brake pads and quality fluid, If you are going to keep the standard brakes you will go through a few rotors, otherwise a big brake kit is the go.
 

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Oil cooler, Brakes and extended sump. That's the minimum I would say and drive with (a little) mechanical sympathy.
 

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As all of the above have mentioned, oil control is key on an RB, however, fitting larger baffled sumps etc is quite labour intensive- engine out

If you don't intend to run big sticky tyres and very track focused suspension then you could be OK

Another option you could consider is an Accusump

Edit: More info on the head drain to make your own mind up if it's worth it http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/177972-fitting-head-drain-r32-gtr.html
 

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Guys,

I'm currently saving up to get an R32 GTR and have been since selling 350hp 180sx. I've always wanted one and with me turning 30 this year I thought "What better present!" :cool:

R32 GTR's are commanding similar money to E46 M3's which work very well on track and come with many creature comforts the GTR does not, but TBH, I've had a want for a GTR for nearly 10 years after I got a shot of Dangerous Daves RB Motorsport built car.

I keep hearing issues regarding fitting an oil drain like its a 100% necessity if you put your car anywhere near a track, I'd like to know if this is true? Also if this is required, what is the average cost to have one fitted?

I don't plan on going all out on a car, something with Steel Turbos, fuelling upgrades and an appropriate management, I guess this will see me around [email protected] wheel easy enough?

I'd like to know how those who use their weekend cars on track how life is with them? Lots of problems? No problems?

Thanks,

Willie
Hi Willie,

Very small world! Say hello to Mr Logue (aka dangerous dave) - I also remember his car! There's a good chance we met too:)
Did you used to have a 106?
Firstly -nyes,yes and yes...
E46 M3 is good on track even standard but not in same class as R32/GTR/Skyline..
In so many ways!

E46 is much better as a road car in so many ways though too!

I have both!
Love them both!!
For a weekend/track/fun car it would be a GTR
.. Obviously:chuckle:

Also GTR's much more reliable than M3's..
Main expense for GTR's on track is petrol then brakes. If you use standard stuff you'll get through it very quickly! Dependong on what susp it has it should wear its tyres well so not as bad as some heavy cars. Otherwise incredibly reliable for track.
Modified M3's are good but there is alwas a ceiling with bhp/ton that doesn't exist with GTR's and the suspension design isn't as modern or reliable. TBH the g'box isn't so good either - most E46's that get used properly crunch going into gear running standard power. GTR g'boxes amazing in this respect..

GET A 32:smokin:

Hope that helps:)

Sam (proabaly black pulsar, white R32, now grey R32)
 

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If you are going to track it, fit a decent oil pump N1 with a reimax steel gear and a sump baffle such as tomei or nismo. While that is being done you may as well get the rod end bolts changed too.
err.. as far as I know, I've never had this on either of my 32's.. should I be worried?? discuss...


or have I just condemned my engine?

:chuckle:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Cheers for the replies.

I used to have a little white Glanza when Dave had the RB Built car. He now has his own classic car restoration garage called Icon Restorations. He has some sweet little Mini's in his collection but I think he still has a want for another R32.

I think this is where my confusion comes from, you hear all the "you NEED to get a better pump, baffled sump and oil drain or your RB will die!" but there are many exceptions to the rule. I know someone directly who spun a bearing on track so I do know it happens.

Upgrading the cooling system, brakes and tyres are the 3 of the major things I would do before tracking it regardless. With me previously doing some drifting I am aware of how hot things can get while on track.
 
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