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Discussion Starter #1
Need to buy my head and main studs, any experienced issues with ARP2000 bolts? Also it worth spending the extra on L19 spec?

FInally what is the deal with the mains, I have read in a few places that one of the main end studs need to be modified ?
 

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What's wrong with the oem mains bolts ?
There is nothing wrong with them. They are that good that Nissan themselves recommend them. I mean, if they were sub standard then Nissan would not affiliate their name with them.

All these things are like the Emperors now clothes. Lol

A good example. A guy on here runs a 1/4 mile in an R35, fits HKS dump valves, runs another 1/4 mile with the same time. Its soo apparent there are soo many 'tune up' parts that are of no benefit to the end user.

Save your money dude.
 

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I know oem are fine I was I was wondering why FRacer feels he needs to change them as I ain't heard any that fail ... But I know what your saying about brand labelling I was reading a topic about cambelts which is another perfect example
 

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I know oem are fine I was I was wondering why FRacer feels he needs to change them as I ain't heard any that fail ... But I know what your saying about brand labelling I was reading a topic about cambelts which is another perfect example
Lol. I am just getting cynical in my old age.

You are 100% right.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Sometimes it is cheaper to buy the studs compared to oem bolts from Nissan. I am not reusing my 20 year bolts.
 

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Sometimes it is cheaper to buy the studs compared to oem bolts from Nissan. I am not reusing my 20 year bolts.
Why not? The material is 4.5 billion years old which ever bolt/studs you buy.
 

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When you use a head bolt and torque it down, due to the design of the head bolt it has to be rotated in order to engage the threads and secure it, doing this creates a twisting force and a clamping force which means that when the cylinders begin accumulating the load, the bolt will stretch and twist. Basically because the bolt has to react to two different forces simultaneously, its capacity to secure the head is slightly reduced and forms a less reliable seal in higher powered engines.

A head stud however can be tightened into place without any direct clamping force applied through the tightening process. The nut provides the clamping force rather than the torque of the fastner itslef, therefore the rotational force is avoided entirely.

In my opinion while the engine is apart buy the ARP head studs and also the mains, go for the ARP 2000 as they are very good. If in future you have to remove the head again, you will not have to replace the ARP studs and can re-use them.

For the sake of £150 odd upgrade to the studs.. I'm not sure on the modification required to one of the mains as you have stated perhaps calling a reputable RB engine builder will help you.
 

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When you use a head bolt and torque it down, due to the design of the head bolt it has to be rotated in order to engage the threads and secure it, doing this creates a twisting force and a clamping force which means that when the cylinders begin accumulating the load, the bolt will stretch and twist. Basically because the bolt has to react to two different forces simultaneously, its capacity to secure the head is slightly reduced and forms a less reliable seal in higher powered engines.

A head stud however can be tightened into place without any direct clamping force applied through the tightening process. The nut provides the clamping force rather than the torque of the fastner itslef, therefore the rotational force is avoided entirely.

In my opinion while the engine is apart buy the ARP head studs and also the mains, go for the ARP 2000 as they are very good. If in future you have to remove the head again, you will not have to replace the ARP studs and can re-use them.

For the sake of £150 odd upgrade to the studs.. I'm not sure on the modification required to one of the mains as you have stated perhaps calling a reputable RB engine builder will help you.
LMFAO.

Hell, if you think your are buying 'insurance' for and extra £150, you crack on.
You kid yourself you need them, you buy them. Lol
 

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So if what your saying is true then every bolt that gets torqued down stretches so that would include the oil pump bolts and the water pump bolts also the flywheel bolts too infact every bolt on the engine ??? Oem mains bolts are not stretch bolts
 

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So if what your saying is true then every bolt that gets torqued down stretches so that would include the oil pump bolts and the water pump bolts also the flywheel bolts too infact every bolt on the engine ??? Oem mains bolts are not stretch bolts
To what torque do those bolts get torqued down to? Not as much as the head bolts.

What loads do those bolts get subjected to? not much, the head bolts however have to put up with alot.

It's up to him if he wants to swap out the bolts for new studs lol
 

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An M12 12.9 tensile bolt stretches **** all at 50n/m.
 

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And ARP bolts are only 9% higher in tensile strength than standard.
 

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APR studs are torqued to 80nm for some reason. So you must get more block distortion with ARP studs. Of course you should hone the bearing surfaces with the girdle torqued up before fitting the shells.
 

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To what torque do those bolts get torqued down to? Not as much as the head bolts.



What loads do those bolts get subjected to? not much, the head bolts however have to put up with alot.



It's up to him if he wants to swap out the bolts for new studs lol

He's only changing the mains and tbh as 32combat says at 50 Nm they won't stretch besides the 20 odd year old cast cradle is likely to give up the ghost first
 

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He's only changing the mains and tbh as 32combat says at 50 Nm they won't stretch besides the 20 odd year old cast cradle is likely to give up the ghost first
he said hes changing the head bolts too? Either way bolts are just as good, but the head bolts should not be re-used, and I would personally just swap them out with new studs if the engine is apart.
 

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APR studs are torqued to 80nm for some reason. So you must get more block distortion with ARP studs. Of course you should hone the bearing surfaces with the girdle torqued up before fitting the shells.
Some honda engine builders have noticed that when using ARP mains and after torquing them down, it causes all the mains caps to go out of round,therefore requiring a line hone while torqued down with the ARP studs.
 
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