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Yup, that looks like the set I had on my old engine.
Having said that, for the effort of installing them in the engine, and the price now for a good set of rods, I'd be putting aftermarket I-Beams in.
 

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But didn't your engine get rod knock? In that case at least one of your rods stands a good chance of being ****ed.
If new bolts are not fitted properly you can make the big ends out of round and the rod will be junk.
Also to ensure the rods are 100% ok they need crack testing then new rod bolts installing and then sending to have the big ends recircled.
After you have done all that so you have 100% confidence in reusing the rods they have been more agro cost more and are still not as strong as a new set of forged rods.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes no 6 rod is fubard but got a new rod it was only no6 that span as usual with these bloody engines
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Tbh I've been thinking about fully forging the block and looking into getting rods the prices aren't that bad I mean £300-350 for a set ain't bad tbh and those are Manley rods too
 

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Manleys are the same forgings as Eagle rods, from China, they are finished at manleys facility if i remember right.

Not a bad rod, probably the same rod forgings that Tomei use ;)

Look in to their Turbo Tuff rods tho, depending what power levels you are going for.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok cheers for the info I'm only planning on 550 crank hp no more than 1.4 bar likely less its a road car but I'm after response over power numbers so even if it don't make 550 as long as it shifts like a gudun I'm happy
 

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I have eagle in mine. Pretty much same as Manley.
Had no probs with them in 8000 miles and as you say for £350 you can't go wrong really.
Got to be a better option than messing around with standard rods with an unknown history.
Just don't want to see a "Third time lucky" engine rebuild thread mate.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yeah I know what you mean its kinda counter productive so I'm best going forged rods me thinks
 
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