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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi

i did a full rewire of the r32 and now im finishing the attesa- ecu side
ecu is link g4+
car is stripped from abs and all other electronics!

now when i power on, i get attesa pump triggering for a few seconds.
then i get the relay clikcing after every ~30 seconds. what can cause this or how to diagnocse?

only error code i get from attesa ecu is missing ABS controller

I have not connected all lights and switches like reverse switch signal. maybe that would matter somehow...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
will try that tomorrow but i also came up with something else that might be the case

as i rewired the whole system and only but back what is needed ( i thought so) then i went over the schematics and i have not connected the air bleeding connector wire to ground. as i understood this puts the system in service mode thus attesa relay clicking?
 

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If it's in service mode the plug in the driver foot well will need looking at. Otherwise most likely a nitrogen refill. I'm yet to find how to sort my clicking out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Clicking is not a nitrogen issue.
can you give any pointer then?

i did a quick test with the wire to ground and off ground and nothing changed. i used to have error code 8 - abs but now i also saw 21 -tps sensor but i guess i did there something myself as i did connect tps before-will doublecheck

the main thing is that before starting do rebuild ~4 months ago the 4wd was working ok so i also would not suspect the nitrogen yet. i still must bleed the system to count that out

ps-thanks for help so far!

edit-i also tested the g sensor voltages and adjusted all to 2,5V but they were pretty close anyway
 

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If it's cutting in/out as frequently as you say I think you're looking at a non return valve problem inside the unit.
Unit is pumping up then cutting out as it should, but then bleeding off pressure until it cuts back in again.
Once at pressure, the unit should not cut back in until the ATTESSA is activated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
if this is the case then during driving i should be able to engage 4wd anyway atleast to some extent?

thanks
 

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The pressurised fluid can bleed to 2 places . The transfer box piston or more likely return to the tank.
You can drive with either defect. The latter will only be noticed by the relay increasing in activity.
 

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The pressurised fluid can bleed to 2 places . The transfer box piston or more likely return to the tank.
You can drive with either defect. The latter will only be noticed by the relay increasing in activity.
Sounds logical, I've read a few threads on here and sau, and the increase relay activity has usually been attributed to a worn out pressure reservoir even people reporting fixing it by replacing the reservoir. Tbh a pressure relief or non return valve bleeding back into the tank sounds more plausible. However the effect of bleeding back would be higher duty cycle on the pump/relay if the pressure reservoir also isn't storing pressure.
 

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I don't think the 32's maintain any pressure to the transfer case actuator, that was from 33's and on so it shouldn't be a factor.
Plus you'd notice the fluid level dropping at the tank in the boot.
I'm leaning towards an internal leak from any of the valves.
Unless the OP was careful to block all pipes etc when he did the overhaul, there's a good chance for contaminants to enter the system.
A low nitrogen charged accumulator causes the pump to cycle more than it should, but unless the system is activated, you won't hear the pump cutting in/out.
There's always the possibility of a zero charge accumulator coupled with a small valving leak which might explain the fault.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
attesa gauge has 2 wires and as i understand it should output 0-5V signal?
i connected that also to dash to see any activity, will test more today
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
yesterday i checked my ecu and found out i had not correctly saved one change- rpm output to attesa. i really hope that missing rpm signal was the cause of no function. will test today.. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
some more debugging.

did bleeding of the system today.
1.ignition on
2.bleeding switch of - pump angages
3.i can see pressure rise on the gauge and hear pump run till some pressure is reached
4.while i was bleeding i noticed the constant pressure starts dropping slowly without pump reengaging to pressurize again
like that the pressure drops to 0 (on gauge)
i can get the pressure back up only by turning ignition off for ~30s to 1 min
then all repeats again

pressure comes up but drops down in ~1 minute and system must be restarted to get it back (in bleeding mode)

this seems like the gauge shows 0 pressure but pressure switch is not telling pump to add the pressure?

hope this is not too unclear :)
 

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Not too sure what we're looking at in the video.
If the car still has the standard front diff, you can stop either front wheel just as you did. The opposite wheel would spin 2x as fast.
(we didn't get to see what the opposite wheel was doing in the vid)
But the rear diff should not have done what you showed as they're a LSD from factory. Can't imagine any situation where one would fit an open diff ??
So both wheels will spin at the same RPM, unless one side is greatly loaded.
(Not a boot)
A rear diff problem is a separate problem to an ATTESSA problem.
 
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