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Discussion Starter #1
there's a four way battle ensuing over my car, between me, the missus, my echanic, and my other mechanic.

- the car is at a shop. they say that preignition melted my piston rings and the head, due to a failing fuel pump. they also say my rear turbo is leaking, and requires replacement, preferably of both turbos. They want to bore out the block, rebuild with forged internals, put new turbos on, and charge me an arm and a leg. They haven't built a Skyline engine recently, but the car just rebuilt in the bay my car now occupies was a Porsche 959. I drove that car, seemed fine to me! Anyways, the Tomei engine they have failed compression on cylinder #6, so I just want the head.

- the missus doesn't trust them. she wants my other mechanic to fix the engine. He's built numerous RB26s, and is a big believer in "OEM is best". He has a used long block with turbos that he's offering for the equiv of 830 pounds. This engine is used but never rebuilt (apparently). the missus argues that since Nissan built the engine, it'll be far better than being built by someone who's never built an RB26 from the ground up. But although the mechanic does a good job at building RB26s, he doesn't like hotrodding engines and generally avoids building tuned cars.

- a complete engine for 830 pounds? I'm suspicious. And anyways, I plan to run high boost. Lots of people run high boost on stock bottom ends, but...?

- the missus wants that cheap engine - a complete drop-in package for 1000 pounds and I'll be on the road again in a couple days.

- I'd rather spend 3500 pounds and do a full rebuild, including brand new turbos.

- before you say it, the map of course will be a major (but not sole) factor in the longevity of the engine. Used original or rebuilt?

- both the 2nd mechanic and the missus argue that, with proper mapping, that old original standard never-rebuilt engine will be plenty fine, even if I add turbos (up to 2530s by my plan).

What would you do? the first option is expensive but I'm willing to swallow it for some peace of mind.
 

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what i would do is get the standard engine dropped in to get it back on the road, keep the bust engine and start tuning or gathering together the bits to fix or rebuild it when cash allows, then get swapped again when sorted. then you can make sure that you dont miss anything on the rebuilding of the engine as you wont be in any rush to sort it.
 

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what i would do is get the standard engine dropped in to get it back on the road, keep the bust engine and start tuning or gathering together the bits to fix or rebuild it when cash allows, then get swapped again when sorted. then you can make sure that you dont miss anything on the rebuilding of the engine as you wont be in any rush to sort it.
Thats good advise, o use a company that are well known in building tuned skyline engines.
 

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Get it running with the used engine, which sounds like an absolute bargain, enjoy it and bank the difference..... remember it's impossible to fill the bottomless pit that is Skyline tuning. If your Missus is clever enough to know what's going on now you'll never be able to gloss over the true costs of the other option which will be at least double what your thinking now....
 

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there's a four way battle ensuing over my car, between me, the missus, my echanic, and my other mechanic.

- the car is at a shop. they say that preignition melted my piston rings and the head, due to a failing fuel pump. they also say my rear turbo is leaking, and requires replacement, preferably of both turbos. They want to bore out the block, rebuild with forged internals, put new turbos on, and charge me an arm and a leg. They haven't built a Skyline engine recently, but the car just rebuilt in the bay my car now occupies was a Porsche 959. I drove that car, seemed fine to me! Anyways, the Tomei engine they have failed compression on cylinder #6, so I just want the head.

- the missus doesn't trust them. she wants my other mechanic to fix the engine. He's built numerous RB26s, and is a big believer in "OEM is best". He has a used long block with turbos that he's offering for the equiv of 830 pounds. This engine is used but never rebuilt (apparently). the missus argues that since Nissan built the engine, it'll be far better than being built by someone who's never built an RB26 from the ground up. But although the mechanic does a good job at building RB26s, he doesn't like hotrodding engines and generally avoids building tuned cars.

- a complete engine for 830 pounds? I'm suspicious. And anyways, I plan to run high boost. Lots of people run high boost on stock bottom ends, but...?

- the missus wants that cheap engine - a complete drop-in package for 1000 pounds and I'll be on the road again in a couple days.

- I'd rather spend 3500 pounds and do a full rebuild, including brand new turbos.

- before you say it, the map of course will be a major (but not sole) factor in the longevity of the engine. Used original or rebuilt?

- both the 2nd mechanic and the missus argue that, with proper mapping, that old original standard never-rebuilt engine will be plenty fine, even if I add turbos (up to 2530s by my plan).

What would you do? the first option is expensive but I'm willing to swallow it for some peace of mind.

Get the cheaper drop in running engine and then.....

Dont try running 2 bar boost and get a map done by a professional...even if it means swapping to hks as that is what you stated is easily available there
 

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Discussion Starter #8
you speak as if I ran 2 bars all day long - it was just for a split second to see if the injector duty would also spike (it didn't). Will I ever live this down???
 

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I´d take the 2nd hand engine, from the logical factor you can have 3 of them for the price of one rebuilt which maybe won´t run properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Nope... :popcorn:
well, at least you don't know the dumbass shit I pulled in high school...

Should I change my user name to 2BarBoy? :chuckle:
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
I´d take the 2nd hand engine, from the logical factor you can have 3 of them for the price of one rebuilt which maybe won´t run properly.
well, that's the thing. The guy just rebuilt a 959; the owner must have seriously trusted him to let him overhaul a rare car like that. The car in the bay next to mine is some sort of Mercedes (new, like 500 miles on it) that's getting the whole nine yards - engine upgrades, body kit, the works. The shop races in the KGTC (2 liter class) and has won the championship a few times - their race car is also in the garage. So that's their resume in a nutshell. I'm just the only guy who brings a Jap car by there.

The other thing is that they're a huge shop, and will guarantee their work. The guy who's built many RB26s built mine(that blew), and he's a one man operation. When told of my problem, he was like "oh, that's too bad. hey, lemme fix it again, same price as last time. bring it by tomorrow."

Plus, he was extremely evasive of the history of the £830 engine. Should I not look a gift horse in the mouth?
 

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Here is how I would go at this...

First- Figure out what YOU want.

If you are looking for 450bhp or so, a standard engine will do, no need for all the good bottom end, etc.

If you are looking into the 600bhp area, then yes, go the whole nine yard...maybe even a 2.8litre bottom end. Forge piston, H-con rod, R33 standard crank, ARP rod bolt, should see you well into the 650-700 bhp area.

A very standard build on a GTR is the following
Forge piston
standard con rod
standard crank (crank collar added if a R32)
ARP rod bolt
HKS GT-SS Turbo
600cc injectors
280l/h fuel pump
Tomei 260 PonCam
And rest of the other stuff along the way (oil pump, baffle pan, z32 afm, etc)

So that you will see about 550bhp @ 1.4bar boost. It seems to be a tired and tested road going engine. And it is not cheap.

If you can't afford all the listed above, then you know you are not going to go very far so you can stick to the lower bhp build (standard)

If you want more, then it is a case of how much can you afford.

Best of luck, and please, PROPER mapping, not PowerFC knock reading.
 

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Get in touch with RIPS in NZ (he is on several threads on here) and get a fully built RB30 engine imported to you at a reasonable cost.....

but what ever you do - dont run high boost without uprating all the necessary parts first this time or you will be back at this piont again before you know it !
 

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- I'd rather spend 3500 pounds and do a full rebuild, including brand new turbos.


That would be the best thing to do imho. Buy cheap and you pay twice.
 

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Hi

i'll go with the standard RB bloke assuming hes good at what he does, also assuming you are happy to mod up to about 500ish at the fly, then offer someone with power fc mapping abilities to fly over and finish it off, just a thought, haven't thought it through and in no way a dig.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I'm going the full rebuild route. This is the analogy by which I won the argument:

me: "someone offers you a Chanel handbag for 200 quid. would you trust it?" (the girl adores Chanel, and unfortunately never buys fakes, and never buys used)
her: "well, there would be something wrong with it then"
me: "but it *looks* perfect, and you'd save so much money"
her: "but I'd always know that somehow it wasn't the real thing, or something was just wrong with it. I wouldn't ever trust it"
me: "exactly. we're going with the full rebuild honey!"

score one for the men in the world!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
A very standard build on a GTR is the following
Forge piston
standard con rod
standard crank (crank collar added if a R32)
ARP rod bolt
HKS GT-SS Turbo
600cc injectors
280l/h fuel pump
Tomei 260 PonCam
And rest of the other stuff along the way (oil pump, baffle pan, z32 afm, etc)
that's pretty much what I have in mind, except that I will go with 2530s instead of GT-SS. I've already 2/3 of that build with supporting parts, so 2000 quid will finish this build down to the T.

Twin EGTs, an NTK wideband, and Datalogit - I now have these tools this time around!
 
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