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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I have a problem with my r32.

The other day I was driving home from work, all was fine, until I opened the throttle about 3/4. I hit full boost (~1 bar) and I glanced in my rear view and all I could see was a massive black cloud. I let off the gas and the throttle was stuck slightly open, so I immediately turned the ignition off and pulled over.

I then popped the hood and checked everything out and from what I could see everything was fine. I tried to start it back up but it just cranks slowly and wont start.

I have spark and fuel.

Mods:

Cat back
Apexi Intake
Mine's VX-ROM
Boost at ~1bar


So far I have checked:

MAFs
Changed Spark Plugs
Intake plumbing
Battery
Ran codes - 55 all clear


One thing I haven't check is the timing, Is there a way to check the timing without the car running? Also, is there a way to test the PTU? (the box at the back of the engine cover)

Thanks a lot for any help.
 

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have you checked intercooler pipe work ?
could have popped a hose off when u come on boost...

lee
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have checked the entire intake system and all seems fine. I just did a compression test and numbers 4,5,6 are right around 120 but 1,2,3 are all below 50.

Burnt exhaust valves perhaps? What is separate between front and back cylinders other than turbos?

Any ideas are welcome.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Could it be that the timing belt has jumped a tooth or two? Is there a way to check the timing with the engine not running?

Anyone have any ideas at all? I am at the point that I will try almost anything. I have only had this car for 3 weeks and its already broken down. Well I guess that's all part of owning a 20 year old sports car.

Thanks guys
 

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your front three pistons are well and truly ****ed. You shouldn't see that much compression difference between any pistons.

It's usually #6 that dies. But if indeed your front turbo exhaust wheel shattered, and then the exhaust manifold inhaled the bits, that would explain why your front three pistons got toasted while your rears are fine.

R32 ceramic turbos that are pushing two decades of use are time bombs.

Time to rebuild. You need:

-87mm pistons
-full set of bearings
-bore out your block (it's scratched)
-new turbos, front and rear. I strongly suggest you get steel turbos.

And depending on your budget, it'd be a good time to redo just about everything you can think of, and then some.
 

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Don't feel bad; I had my car for exactly ten days before it blew the Smoke of Death out the tailpipe. Four months in the shop, then two months back on the road before the damned turbos let go (see why ceramics are a Bad Thing?). Two months back in the shop and I threw $20,000 in parts at the engine.

Car runs astonishingly great now. It just took three years and well over $100,000 USD not including the car itself...
 

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as far as I understand, the engine must be running in order to check timing (you need a strobe shining on the crank pulley).

I have a suspicion that your engine won't start because something catastrophic has happened to your front three pistons. If possible, get an endoscope camera into the spark plug hole and have a look-see. I've seen stock pistons that have blown their ringlands and turned the piston rings into twisted corkscrews. Obviously, in that case the engine won't be turning over very well!!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Just pulled the exhaust off and found the exhaust wheel in there so I am going to have to rebuild. Time for some GT-SS's I think or maybe RS's.

Thanks for the help guys
 

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It should still start and run with a missing turbine wheel (I have done this :))
not if its sucked the ex wheel in and got mixed up with the valves and pistons.
if you keep your foot in when it goes,the ex wheel goes down the pipe,if you shut off it gets sucked into 3 cylinders
 

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My concern that you didn't get away scot free on this are your compression results. Have a look inside the motor with a flexible endoscopy camera and see what exactly happened to your front pistons. When you do, by all means report back :)
 

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Even if you did find a turbine wheel in the exhaust that does not explain the bad compression in your car, 120 on 3 sylinders and 50pis on the last 3, even 120 is low, sould be 150-160 on a good engine with stock compression ratio
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The compression test was done on a stone cold engine. I think that is why compression is low in the back three. When I bought the car the compression was 160 across the board.
 

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The compression test was done on a stone cold engine. I think that is why compression is low in the back three. When I bought the car the compression was 160 across the board.
Last time I did a comp test on one of my cars there was a difference of maybe 10-15psi cold/hot.
I would deffinatly do a new test and maybe a leak down to se if the rings, valves and headgasket are al good
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well I have it half ripped apart now. Got the front turbo off but I still cant tell just how much damage has been done. I am going to be doing pistons, rods, bearings, valves, cams, turbos ect. I am going to do a full rebuild.

Does anyone have experience with the Tomei Arms B7660 Turbos? I am looking into the Tomei RB26 Neo Hard Tune Kit from Tunerlab.jp. Would this be a good kit for the price?

I don't know if I should go with the reytec in the kit or get it without it and pick up a power fc.

Anyways I'm still just in the tear down/planning stage right now.
 
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