[Skyliner]

Happy to be the first owner of a R33 GT-R V-spec in Scandinavia!?

Just fitted HKS Steel Induction kit, HKS Downpipe De-cat and HKS Superdrager.

The difference was quite more than i expected

Could anyone tell me the easyest way to get the boost pressure up to 1.0-1.1 bar??

Can i do this with a bleed-valve or do i have to go for a boost controller??

Sorry for my bad english...

Thanx!

John

 

[DCD]

John,

First of all congratulations on being the first R33 owner in scandinavia.

As for higher boost, yes it can be achieved with a bleed valve, but a boost controller would be your best bet as it not only controls boost more accurately without all of the spikes, but they are programmable whcih means you can set 2-3 different settings.

Hope this helps

 

[Skyliner]

Thank You!


Ok,
I'm going to purcase a boost-controller for the next season.

But, I do have Bleed-valves in my trunk!! Could you tell me where to place the bleed-valves. Someone have a picture of this done? I guess i need two valves or...??

What vill be the max pressure to keep the original turbos alive...??
My car has only 40K. Km

John

 

[Hugh Keir]

I don't agree that bleed valves will produce spikes, in my experience, the boost profile is generally smooth.

The down side to a bleed valve is that it is not able to compensate well for engine and air temperature variations.

This is particularly significant with the standard Skyline ceramic turbine wheels which are not reliable when over boosted.

 

[BikerBob]

I'm certainly no expert on boost valves, but......
I've recently been reading as much as I can find on the options.

The one thing constantly mentioned is that electronic boost devices can not react quick enough to prevent over boost spikes.
Which makes sense to me, as the system depends on electrically driven valves with finite reaction times.

The ball valve type (particularly those with the very light wieght ceramic balls) supposedly give much faster control and aren't so prone to spikes. Alternate views welcome!

These devices connect in the turbo actuator feed pipe by the way Skyline. Very quick, very simple. Theres even some models available with remote dash control via a simple cable.

Just what I'm reading guys, before you load that there shotgun.....

 

[lance]

it is quite simple just join the two hoses of the standard boost control solenoid.

 

[BikerBob]

Doesn't that just allow the turbo to go to max boost? Theres nothing to control it then is there? If so, thats as dangerous as it gets!

 

[Hugh Keir]

DO NOT join the hoses together without a boost pressure supply as this will indeed blow your turbos the first time you get on boost.

Actuators attached to the turbos are fed boost pressure to open the turbo's internal wastegate, on demand, to allow the excess boost to bleed off.

If you connect the actuators directly to the boost supply you will, if your car has a standard set-up, see maximum boost is about .6 bar.

Inset a bleed valve or a electronic boost controller into the circuit and you can delay the onset of the air pressure supply to the actuators to manage the boost at your desired level.

 

[GT-R Glenn]

Dunno about the 33 but 32 you just remove the olive in the boost line by the solenoid ...= 1 bar

 

[marv]

Could some 1 explain where the best place to insert a bleed valve is pics would be nice..

But would like too keep the two stage boost my car is a gts-t.

Thanks..