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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey folks,
bought a nice 30k miler R32 GTR about three weeks ago. Car is almost mint condition inside and out and, appart from the occasional puffs of oily smoke on over-run, was running like clockwork.....

...untill I took it to Knockhill today!

Conditions were damp so I wasn't driving balls out tbh and only touched on 7k revs a few times on the straight but after around 12 laps (not continuously) I noticed a nasty rattle on accelerating. Backed off and limped into the pits only to have a few knowledgeable folk including a qualified mechanic, confirm it was indeed the big ends!

I don't have the money to give this car to a reputable tuner to fix (I've heard circa £3-4k for a bottom end rebuild) so my two good friends have offered to help me pull the engine out and replace the big ends.
We have collectively done many engine swaps/bottom end rebuilds on CA18 powered 200sx's but this is obviously a much bigger job.
I really need to gather as much info as possible on how to do this so please anyone who has ever done a diy bottom end build or any of you proffesional engine builders out there, please let me know a step by step guide to pulling out an RB and any tips you have on how do the bottom end. It would be greatly appreciated.

Is it easier to remove the engine with gearbox intact or should I look at unbolting the g'box/transfer box before pulling it?

Tbh, I am totally perplexed by this bearing failure. The car still had good oil and water levels and pressure was good (until the bearing strated to rattle).
The car isn't hugely modded, has stage 1 mod's and running standard boost.
The 30k miles seems to be genuine as the car feels very tight and the running gear and underside of the car is in very good condition. I know RB bottom ends can handle upward of 500bhp on standard bottom ends and I'd be lucky if mine is running 350bhp..... the only thing that springs to mind is oil contamination?

Please help if you can, loved driving this car over the past three weeks and don't want it to become an expensive ornament in my parking bay.

Thank you,
Jonny
 

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Can't be a lot of help on the rebuild but DO fit a Trust sump extension if you intend to drive the car near it's cornering limits. RB26's are notorious for oil starvation due to the comparitivly small amount carried (approx 4.5-5 litres). Sump extension will increase oil capacity by 2 ish litres and comes with an extended pickup. I reckon this is most likely what happened to your bottom end..........Happened to me on my first GTR:(
 

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Replace the oil pump with either an N1, or a Tomei pump.

Sump, either fit a Tomei baffle kit, or Greddy extension.

DO NOT RE-GRIND CRANK, lots of people will jump all over me for this but in MY EXPERIENCE of building LOTS of RB motors re-ground cranks just do not last. End of story.

Use genuine Nissan main bearings (or Nismo if you can afford) Again use Nissan/Tomei/Nismo big end bearings.

Replace oil pressure sender, they are notorious for giving funny readings when old, and you need to know how successful your re-build was.

Balance the entire rotating assembley.

If you have access to a ramp it is easier to remove gearbox. Then remove engine.
 

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That's really bad news m8 :(

Calum at Checkpoint in Arbroath has two RB26 blocks - might be worth a call? 01241-879999

Hope you get it sorted soon - bloody Skylines eh? :rolleyes:

Rog :)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Brilliant guys, thanks for all the tips and words of encouragement!

TFS that rebuild diary is exactly what I need, muchos gracias!

Yeah now that you mention it oil starvation sounds like the obvious cause.
I'll have to look into a baffle kit or extension.... anyone on here supply them?

Cheers,
Jonny
 

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i should have the rebuild part done in two weeks with torque settings and everything, ill load it to this forum when the "diary" is complete but that will take a while longer
 

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Hi Jonny!

You have at least three options:

1. Trust/Greddy sump extension. This requires cutting of the original sump and welding on of the extension. It comes with modified pick up and baffle - I got mine from Nengun within 2 weeks for £170 or so...



2. Sump baffle / trap door kit e.g. http://www.atfpower.co.uk/

3. Accusump oil pressure controller e.g. http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40971



The other thing definitely worth considering is an oil cooler kit - the Greddy one includes an oil filter relocation kit, bringing your filter to up where the battery is.



Likewise an uprated oil pump would be ideal, but these are pretty £££...

Cheers :)

Rog
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the info Rog.

The accusump system seems like the one most suited to my needs and I like the idea of instant oil pressure when the car is started.
Unfortunately I missed the group buy there but I'll just get an order in direct.

Cheers mate!

Jonny
 

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Jonnyspeedbump said:
Thanks for the info Rog.

The accusump system seems like the one most suited to my needs and I like the idea of instant oil pressure when the car is started.
Unfortunately I missed the group buy there but I'll just get an order in direct.

Cheers mate!

Jonny
Hi Jonny

Your not to late if you want one get in touch asap

Keith
 

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Cord or Keith!

Sorry for the hijack, but a quick question to either Cord or Keith do you recommend/use the Accusump on it's own or in conjunction with a Trust kit/Tomei baffle? I've got a Trust kit on mine but wondering whether going Accusump as well would be a good idea or is this just over the top for a mainly road (but i bit of track) 650bhp r32gtr?:)
 

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T.F.S. said:
i should have the rebuild part done in two weeks with torque settings and everything, ill load it to this forum when the "diary" is complete but that will take a while longer
Great write-up of the rebuild by the way. I understand hardly any of it, but it's nice to see an owner getting their hands dirty with this engine. :)

Would be interested to see the full diary online at some point - could probably even sticky it.
 

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Download the manual for engine removal guide. Other than that, look back through any thread in the technical section started by me - any question you have I will have already asked it, trust me, lol :D

The main thing you have to decide is what you want from the rebuild. I found a tasty pair of N1 turbos in the middle of mine - so decided to take advantage of them, and with a few well-chosen parts I have something Im very proud of :smokin:
 

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looking at the manuals there isn't much difference between the CA and RB so if you have done lots of CA builds it should just be a bit heavier and 2 extra cylinders..

as for the cause what fuel do you use ? has it been mapped for uk fuel ?
have you ever heard Det ?

if not then oil starvation sounds ok but I thought bad fuel causing det is a quick way to destry your big ends...?

good luck.

Steve
 

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T.F.S. said:
as soon as its done ill forward it to you...it will be a lot better than it is now i have much to do on that thread
Ok, lemme know when you're done. Got the go-ahead to sticky it at the top of the forum (might end up going in a "Guides" forum)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Keith, definately interested in the accusump buy, I've pm'd you. Some of the chaps on the sxoc have expressed an interest in this system too so it might be worth doing a group buy there too.
Quick question tho': Am I right in saying that the oil contained in the accusump system is a seperate reservoir and therefor will not be heated when the engine is running? If so, are the effects of 20degree oil being pumped into a hot engine going to be harmful!?

SteveC,
always run on Optimax but the car has not been mapped for uk fuel. I can see what you're getting at with idea of det. and tbh I do not know if it was detting at all.
My only thought is that it seemed to go from silent to knocking like a 'Jehovas Witness on speed' in no time at all which I would have though would be more likely to be bearings running dry than due to excess load from det.?
It's hard to say but the knocking seems to from the front of the engine ie number 1 cylinder. To be safe, the head will probably get taken off when the engine is out to check for det.... I'm guessing it should be fairly obvious if it is?

Thanks again guys, really appreciate the support :).

Jonny
 
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