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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I bought my 2009 Black Edition in 2010. Been on the slippery slope ever since, even though initially I didn't plan to mod the car. Well, if there's a way to make it quicker... eventually I had full bolt-ons, running on E85. The car was feeling properly fast, did 1/4 mile 10.41s and one mile at 306.7 km/h. It was the quickest street car finnish magazine Tekniikan Maailma had tested at track and I won the first drag event (1/8 mile) I attended.

Kierrosaikapankki: Viritetty Nissan GT-R radalla (full hd) - YouTube
Rauma Street Race 15.6.2013 Nissan GTR 1/8 mile 6,41s - YouTube

After two summers of driving the car hard on E85 and finally last summer adding GTC suction pipes and SRD intercooler seemed to break the camel's back and a conrod gave up on a track day in August last year. I did have some fueling problems prior to the incident though, but got that sorted before leaving for the track. Did logs on the way and everything was 100% ok. Then the engine just blew up after driving nearly one tank's worth of laps. Yes, I did cool down the car in between the stints :)

E85 full bolt-on GT-R engine failure - YouTube
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0F8pgF3T2Ko

I'm quite confident that it was a mechanical failure, limits of stock internals were found. Other possibilities are fueling problems and oil starvation in the corner, but let's see what the tear down reveals.

Not looking promising when went to assess the damage at a friends garage:







 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
It took a while to get my car back form some 250km away and before I could drop the engine we had to fix an old Stenhoj lift that my friend had saved from scrapping. Early this year I finally got wrenching and dropped the engine.



Pretty much everything broke that can break.

Front diff:



Steering gear:



Bellhousing and starter:



And engine itself:









Shipped the engine to SRD for a rebuild:

 

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Discussion Starter #3
I had to buy a spare long block because the engine is too badly damaged. So, from those two engines Lee will pick the best pieces and build me a new strong engine. Specs of the new project are:


Manley pistons with uprated pins
Carrillo rods w/ CARR bolts
ACL race bearings
HKS head gasket
Fully balanced
Bores honed
Titan cranck damper
SRD billet cams, 267°/10.4mm
Valve seats recut
Clearances checked and readjusted
Jun valve springs and retainers
Intake manifold ported
Borg Warner EFR6758 turbos from GTC
800lb/ft clutch kit (circlips etc. basic upgrades already done)
Ecutek Flex Fuel

Will update once the tear down and build gets started.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yep, all the stuff you see on top of the car's bottom plates came out. Rod was broken and bent and stuck in pointing outwards direction, so the rod made holes everywhere it hit while the engine was still spinning.
 

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Ouch what a mess, that is a noise I hope I never hear, good luck with rebuilding the car.

What bhp and torque - ftlbs were you running and peak boost when it blew up?
 

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Ouch what a mess, that is a noise I hope I never hear, good luck with rebuilding the car.

What bhp and torque - ftlbs were you running and peak boost when it blew up?
Also interested in what figures you made on E85 with bolt on mods and at what boost.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Boost 1.34 bar, hadn't dynoed the car but based on one mile performance it was making close to 700hp.
 

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Best of luck with the build mate, heard really good things about Lee at SRD.
 

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Nice Stenhøj lift ... Looks like a Mascot model with dry chain.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yep, broken conrod caused the damage while the engine was still spinning. I guess it made few rounds destroying everything and stuck in a position where it is sits now. I tried to spin the rod on the crank but not a chance! Bent and stuck really tight.
 

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Yep, broken conrod caused the damage while the engine was still spinning. I guess it made few rounds destroying everything and stuck in a position where it is sits now. I tried to spin the rod on the crank but not a chance! Bent and stuck really tight.

nasty, that's one of the reasons I wanted a forged motor as I was worried about the rods issue with wanting to run 800+ hp

that failure must of destined almost everything to the scrap bin didn't it ?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Pretty much, we'll see for sure when the engine is tore down. Turbos were ok, went for EFR cores though. I also think heads might be usable because piston top is still in one piece in cylinder. Could have bent valves though. Spare long block is the starting point for the new engine, not counting on using any mechanical parts of the blown engine besides auxiliaries.
 
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