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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I'm looking at buying a GTR in 2017 spring time. I currently have a 2012 C63 AMG coupe and after spending some time deciding on what car to go to next the GTR is where I want to go.
I visited Cadwell park a few weekends back to watch the MLR/22B sprint series and that really sealed the deal for me as I had not really seen much of the GTR in person until then. Some very nice GTR's there not only racing but parked up in the car park.

Not sure if I'm posting this in the correct area but I'm looking for advice if anyone could either link the place to visit on the forum if these questions have been asked before, which i believe they may have. Or provide owners advice.

Firstly, my budget will be upto £45k

MY09 or 2011 MY11 onwards car? I'm leaning to the MY11 due to the updates but I'm no expert so how much this effects the car I'm not sure.

Would you buy a car already tuned? 4.25 car Litchfield V's others? Does it matter? I presume this would save me money as I'd like to go to this stage.

By Spring 2017 what would £45k get me?

Thanks in advance, Aaron
 

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£45k would be right on the edge of an MY11. Ideally you'd need to be closer to the £50k mark.

That said, if you're planning on doing a fair bit of modding(suspension/power) an MY09/10 and some money chucked at it would make a very good car.

£45k would get you a clean, low mileage 09/10 with a few tasty goodies.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks guys, by April/May 2017 you think £45k would see a 2011 with under 45k miles? they all seem to be around £47-49k at the moment
 

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Thanks guys, by April/May 2017 you think £45k would see a 2011 with under 45k miles? they all seem to be around £47-49k at the moment
Prices tend to be stronger in Spring as people start using fast cars more in the nicer weather.

Depreciation on R35's is an unknown quantity, logically the MY17 will weaken earlier car's values but until now the early cars have held firm for about 3 or 4 years.

If you're a cash buyer you'll likely get a good deal from a private sale as most people rely on finance which weakens private sale prices but the flip side is private car sales are sold as seen so there will be no come back after a sale if anything goes wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Prices tend to be stronger in Spring as people start using fast cars more in the nicer weather.

Depreciation on R35's is an unknown quantity, logically the MY17 will weaken earlier car's values but until now the early cars have held firm for about 3 or 4 years.

If you're a cash buyer you'll likely get a good deal from a private sale as most people rely on finance which weakens private sale prices but the flip side is private car sales are sold as seen so there will be no come back after a sale if anything goes wrong.
Yes I think I'd use a dealer to buy the car. I'd want at least a 6 month warranty
 

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Yes I think I'd use a dealer to buy the car. I'd want at least a 6 month warranty
If you manage to find a MY11 with a remap it may already have a transferable tuner's warranty with it. They usually cost around 1.5k for 12 mnths and can be transfered to next owner.
 

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Having been through this in the summer, I'll try and give you my thoughts/experience.

I looked at the market in summer and could see quite a few 09/10 cars between £35k and £45k with various levels of tuning. There were one or two 11 plate cars at the time but these had 55-75k miles and were generally stock/stage 1. Many of the low priced cars (crica £35-37k) were also Cat C/Cat D (usually listed as such), imports or had little to no history, so these were ruled out.

I spent a week or two calling around dealers and private ads only to find most sold, even if they had just been listed. I noticed the same dealers still advertising the sold cars weeks/months after, clearly to pad out their stock and generate calls which explained this.

I then took a week off work to buy one. As I was a cash buyer, it didn't particularly matter to me whether it was a private seller or dealer.

During this week, I went to see quite a few cars and I found the following to be the case; almost everything below £43-45k at the time I found to need work. This was usually tyres, brakes and servicing. Some were also poorly kept despite looking and being described as in great condition, with tonnes of stone chips, poorly painted or kerbed wheels, tired interiors etc.

It quickly became clear to me that a lot of cars in this price range were not a sensible purchase as they would not be worth £4-5k more after doing the necessary work and I couldn't drive around in a £40k+ performance car which looked tired and/or needed brakes, tyres or servicing etc. without doing the work.

Throughout this process, I was constantly being told that all the little differences on the 2011> cars added up to a big difference. For both this reason and the issues mentioned above, I pushed my budget up to around £50k instead of buying a £45k car and spending £5k on it. This led me to what were literally much cleaner and newer cars and among those I found my dream car, which I bought.

So if there is anything I can I can advise you above all else, it is to push your budget up to the best possible car you can afford. A cheaper car will make you happy but spending a bit more is likely to open the doors to newer cars which I think may lead to to a better car/deal overall. Although I'm sure there are exceptions and great cars around for less if you can find them. Also, you can add mods to a car but you can't change it's history or lower the mileage so keep that in mind.

Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
m4drx thanks for the advice, I would increase my budget as you say by 2k or so for the right car. I think £45-47k in 5 months time should get me a decent MY11 car under 45k miles.
Condition, service history and mileage will come before the tuning its had regarding picking the right car. I'll be in no rush.
My C63 had 21k miles on it with 1 owner when I bought it, it was like brand new but for 50% less in price.
Thanks again.
I plan on doing a snowboarding road trip in the GTR in Feb 2018 to the alps with some winter tyres, should be epic!
 

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Not all '09 car's are in poor condition.
Don't rule them out. I'm not just saying that because I'm selling one but because I don't spare any expense when it comes to maintaining it. It's had new tyres all around this year, front bumper resprayed, Swissvax detail done to it, maintained by Litchfields etc

Basically, go over the condition of each car and don't just think all 09 car's are not worth it
 

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Not all '09 car's are in poor condition.
Don't rule them out. I'm not just saying that because I'm selling one but because I don't spare any expense when it comes to maintaining it. It's had new tyres all around this year, front bumper resprayed, Swissvax detail done to it, maintained by Litchfields etc

Basically, go over the condition of each car and don't just think all 09 car's are not worth it
+1 CBA car's are more RAW to drive as well, the new cars have mamby pamby soft suspension! :thumbsup:
 

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Basically, go over the condition of each car and don't just think all 09 car's are not worth it
I'll second this; I went for a mint low mileage MY09 over a rough MY11 + I purchased from Litchfield's so benefitted from 6 months warranty for peace of mind :thumbsup:
 

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I've had my MY09 for around 18 months now mate. I've loved every minute of it but am seriously considering getting an MY11 or newer now. I prefer the look of the newer models and everything was tweaked to make it a better car. I've also stuck to the 6 month service intervals but I'm getting fed up with it now. The problem is I've spent £0000's getting the tyres, brakes, bell housing and circlips done so will have to make sure these are already done on a newer model.
I would advise you to make sure most of these are done to whatever you buy as it will save you time and money. If you're patient wait until you've got enough money for an MY11 because you may end up like me and end up getting one eventually anyway!! ***55357;***56397;***55356;***57340;
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Yes Dazzler that was my thought, go straight for a MY11 onwards car from the start. I was not aware that the MY11 cars required any gearbox upgrades? (clips and bell housing)
 
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