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1,144 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
now there's a challenge! Decided to do it all myself - I mean, I've built Evo motors before, so how hard can it be to change the cambelt on the RB?? Oh boy....

So lets get the car in the air. 1st challenge! can't get the high-lift jack under it, so have to drive it up onto some home made "ramps" to get it an few inches off the ground, get the jack underneath and pump the handle 1/18th of an inch at a time till it starts to gain some height.

jack stands - where do these go ??? remember reading something about factory hoist points under the car. go read the manual - ah yes.

Right, it's in the air - lets go!

Remove the intake gubbins - fairly easy - although getting the airbox half that holds the AFM's out is a bit tricky.... probably didn't need to remove this but it makes a lot more space to negotiate in.

Drain the water (rad drain is tricky - not like other radiators, it's a flush mounted screw in the bottom of the bottom tank! very trick!) - undo the hoses, unbolt the shroud and un-clip the wiring plug at the top left then lift out the radiator - carefully as it is a tight fit in places - you have to push the shroud forward over the fan to clear it....

So I removed the strut bar so as to remove the coil cover so as to remove the plugs to make turning the engine over a lot easier - but gave up when I couldn't get the plug under the cover off - ok, so I give up easily!

next is the task of loosening and removing the accessory belts - all 3 of the buggers! You'd think this would be a doddle, right? *sigh* I forgot, it's a GTR - NOTHING is easy - but they yielded eventually!

Then remove the fan (this is cracked, so go buy a 2nd hand replacement, which will be the wrong part, so you'll need to take it back and discover they don't have the right part....) and the viscous coupling and water pump pulley.

Now before going any further, lets turn the motor over to TDC - remember, the last mark on the pulley is TDC (not the middle one - DUR!) make sure all the cam gears line up with the marks on the head and remove the oil filler cap to check the cam lobe is pointing to the intake side of the motor - real basic stuff everyone knows.... right??? oh yeah, RTFM!

While we're there, let's unplug the CAS and remove that (oh, mark it first so you can put it back in the right place!) and remove the CAS bracket cos it's a bit dirty!

So now, you're ready to remove the crank pulley. Easy peasy. Fire up the compressor, get the man-sized rattle gun out of it's case.... ahh, of course. not room to get it in there as the A/C condensor "radiator" is in the way. So a few ciggies later, this is what you do.....

remove the grill
remove the bonnet-latch and associated brackets (including one bolt behind the re-circ pipe that I'm sure will never go back on!)
remove the A/C fan - which requires removal of the little cannister that obscures one of the bolts holding it on....
remove the A/C radiator brackets
lift the A/C rad and move it toward the front of the car (the flexy pipes allow a fair bit of movement) so you can get the gun in and rattle the M653 bolt that holds the crank pulley on!

remove pulley.... um, no. it's frickin well on there.

Read instructions.... *ciggie* - righto - we'll have to fabricate a gear puller to remove the pulley. So half an hour or so later (after one failed attempt to modify a brake caliper tool!) I come up with this....

*note: before you judge me, in NZ you can't pop down the shops and buy tools @ 10pm on a week night, so you make do with what you have. Just.... be gentle....

Ok, for those of you judging me right now, I'll have you know the damn thing worked a treat!! the bottom most nut rather hastily welded on there had a free turning washer built in so it didn't damage the inside of the pulley at all!!

I just took 20 minutes of 1/2 a turn, tap with rubber mallet, 1/2 a turn, tap with rubber mallet, rinse, repeat etc etc!! :chuckle:

Remove the 3 M6 bolts holding the bottom cover on and viola (or something like that) you are presented with your knackered old cambelt ready for removal!

And you should have a nice collection of GTR parts to sell on Ebay ... no wait! you might need those at some stage.....

Sorry lads, I had to edit the photo above for decency!!

Now, assemble your nice shiny new parts....

including a good quality cambelt....

and while the thing is off the ground, may as well do the gearbox oil!

Tomorrow I'll hopefully have more details, once the grease is cleaned off, I'll be putting the new crank seal in for good measure, and sticking the cambelt and bearings in. Stay tuned!!

404 Posts
I left my AC alone and used a 1.5m bar with a 1/2" drive welded on the end for sockets to get the pully bolt off.

2,267 Posts
Awsome guide there.
Pretty gladthe garage did mine when it was in for its service. I would have ended up in a corner curled surrounded in GTR parts crying lol

2,649 Posts
Its worth noting the crank bolt can be excessively tight. I broke all my 1/2 extensions trying to get it undone. Then upgraded to 3/4 extension bar and breaker bar with 3m tube to give more leverage. At this point the clutch slipped. In end I had to heat it up with a blow torch and use a 3/4 inch heavy duty impact gun to shift it.

1,144 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
changing cambelt part deux. the Whining.....

Hi all -= me again! I've been a busy little beaver so thought I'd best put word to website and post some photos while I have the enthusiasm!!

Last I left you all I'd not quite finished taking everything apart... So first order for Friday night was undo the tensioner bolt and remove the cambelt. That is now awaiting it's place on my "wall of shame" - basically a wall in my workshop was looking a bit empty one day, so I started hanging up broken bits off my rally car. The wall is quite chocka now!!

Next trick is to remove the tensioner and idler - pretty easy. Cam gears come off - helps to have a rattle gun here otherwise you have to "lock" the cams somehow.... As for the crank gear - that were a whole bunch of grunting and swearing! Took 2 of us with 2 crowbars and very large screwdrivers tp get the bugger off! I found that it would come so far then stop, and it helped to gently tap it back on a fraction with the rubber mallet then start prising again - oh, and lots of WD40!!!!

Now I'm not sure what had been leaking oil behind the cambelt covers, but she was a pretty big clean up job. I stuffed a rag in the cam valley and went mad with a cheap can of brake clean and some rags. Now I have to warn you all - keep brakeclean (or BrakeKleen if you will) the h3ll away from any rubber seals etc - cos it makes rubber swell up and you'll screw any seals, gaskets etc (which I fear I may have done....:eek: )

So once all the old grease is gone, your left with this:

Once all that was sorted I set about cleaning the stuff that came off the motor - I found the old cambelt had deteriorated so much that I had to wire brush the teeth to get rid of the bits of cambelt!!!

So here is everything cleaned up and ready:

Now we remove the crank seal and put the new one in - getting the old one out has been covered in another thread, but let's just say it's quite nerve wracking as you have to wreck the old seal to get it out and once you start, there's no turning back!! :nervous:

Once the old seal is out:

(sorry for the fuzzy pic!)

just tap the new one in with a bit of old tube slightly smaller than the seal - I used some old alloy pipe I had laying around and cut to length and the rubber mallet. I probably should have put some rubber grease or oil on it to help, but I plum forgot and it wasn't too much of a struggle!!

Now - next trick is to locate the woodruff key that fell out when you removed the bottom crank gear. I gave both keys a gentle sand with some wet 1200grit on the bench just to remove any burrs.... And remember to put the backing plate onto the crank before you hammer the gear home!!

The next few bits a pretty simple - put the new idler and tensioner on - the tensioner is a bit tricky as you have to pre-load the spring and locate it on the rod coming out of the block and make sure when you push the tensioner onto its stud, it doesn't spin and "un-tension" itself! Stick the washers on the right way round (bevel in towards block and concave spring, err, concave!), bolt the backing plate on behind the cam wheels and stick the cam wheels on - remember to torque up the bolts and don't forget the little plates the go under the bolts there....

Now putting cambelts on is fairly straight forward, you just got to be careful and methodical and double check everything!!!! Once you're happy that everything is lined up - dots on the cams and dot on the crank gear, undo the tensioner nut and spin the crank over by hand twice to make sure it all comes back to true. If it does, cool. If not, pull it off and start again.

Right - going to go watch a movie now - I'll post part 3 up after! enjoy!
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