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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been doing some research in NISSAN FAST and it appears I have found my faulty part. I'm just trying to verify. Based on my research, I need to order part number 46550-04U10 which is the BRACKET ASSY-CLUTCH PEDAL. I looked underneath and noticed a bracket was broken and some rivets appeared to be broken as well. This might explain why my clutch has pressure on it but it does not press straight down. It goes off the the side instead. This bracket also appears to mount directly to the firewall.

Is this a job I can do myself or am I better off taking it to Nissan? I did all the work myself on my 300ZX Twin Turbo but the Skyline is new to me.
 

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I'd say it within the scope of a reasonable DIYer. Mine has just gone this morning (roads are empty as no sane person is working so drove the old girl to work :D) - I pressed the pedal down and there was an audible SNAP and although the clutch pedal now works it feels rather vague and naff.

I'll be driving mine home and parking it up until the job's done. I'd advise you don't drive the car with the bracket in that condition - you could end up damaging your cylinder as there will be lateral movement in the action as well as the straight forward/backwards motion.

It's not complicated but it IS very fiddly, made worse by the fact that you're upside down in a cramped space. When I do mine I'll remove the driver's seat and the lower half of the driver's dash - should make it much easier.

This might help too:



Big coincidence (sp?) that there's absolutely NO previous mention of this subject on the forum and here we are - both with the same thing only a few days apart :)

I'm just waiting for a lead time and price for the bracket. Thought about replacing it with a used one from a car being broken but for the cost (it can't be more than £20) it doesn't seem worth risking having to do it all over again if it snaps again. So new it is :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Anybody have any ideas on how to get the bolts (the ones that go through the firewall) out of the old bracket? I just got the new NISMO bracket but it did not come with bolts. I noticed the old bolts are welded to it. I'm a little lost as to what to do. I guess I can go to the hardware store and buy new bolts for it. Any ideas?
 

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You don't need new bolts. I've just changed mine over:

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/upload/6...box-replacement.html?highlight=clutch+bracket

The two bolts up against the firewall are welded to the firewall. The back-plate of the bracket slides over these two studs and then the two nuts clamp it down onto these studs/bolts. There's also a bolt (NOT a nut) on the top of the bracket (hidden behind the assist spring when you're underneath it looking up).

I think the manual is inaccurate when it comes to these two firewall studs/nuts. It seems to show the threaded studs as being part of the bracket assembly. They're not - the studs are welded to the firewall and the bracket is secured onto them with a nut on each stud.

Hope that helps :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I actually just got it fixed yesterday. Since the 2 bolts were welded to my bracket, I went to the store and bought 2 M8x60 bolts. I found the spot on top above the spring that the nut goes on. As for the firewall, you are correct in saying the holes are welded through it. I had to align my bracket to match up to these holes and then I had to slip the M8x60 bolts through them. From there I just put the master cylinder on the bolts I slid through and I tightened down the nuts. The bracket for my master cylinder rod (the one that the pin goes through to attach it to the pedal) had bent on me so that was annoying trying to match it up and get the cotter pin through. All in all, it was an easy job though once I got started on it and had everything I needed.

I also got my new thermostat installed yesterday with the blue RTV gasket maker. Now my car is up and running again after roughly 2 weeks of being down.
 

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It's a pretty easy job IF everything is straight and true. But odds are you're only changing it because something's knackered then it can become a bit of a ballache given that there's not much room to manhandle anything or get good leverage. My cotter pin went through easy enough but the right side of the box section had broken and obstructed the removal of the right side bulkhead nut. Ah well - job done :)
 
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