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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone done this? Mine snapped through one of the spot welds this morning so am ordering a new one (not that expensive). As it doesn't involve draining or bleeding the brakes I'm planning on doing it myself - looks like one split-pinned bolt to remove from the pedal arm (links it to the master cylinder), then the clutch switch, and then the bolts holding the box onto the bulkhead.

Looks a bit fiddly though.

Anyone done this and can advice on hints/tips or generally tell me how much of a ballache it is? Am thinking I'll remove the driver's seat first as well as the lower half of the dash on the driver's side.

Info/advice much appreciated!

Cheers :)
 

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Get a Nismo one or make sure you seam weld the new one. The fact that Nismo even make one for the 32 shows that the std one is understrength.

It's a ballache getting under there, working upside down in the foot well. My only tip is buy some Nurofen for the bad back you'll have the next day!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You're kidding - there's actually a Nismo clutch pedal bracket? Ok - where from and how much??

LOL What's next - Nismo wet wipes? hehehe
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I think I may have sourced a used one - will seam well it before fitting - maybe even plate it a little to reinforce it. It's either that or wait 2 weeks for a Jap order one to arrive :(
 

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They say the Nismo one is 1.75 times stronger but it just looks like a std one seam welded, painted silver and stickered.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Well I've replaced mine with a standard one today. It was a bit of a ballache of a job - took 4 hours but wasn't rushing.

To anyone else considering doing this job I'd say the following:

1) Get hold of a LONG 12mm socket. You'll have a lot of fun trying to get the two bulkhead nuts off with a standard socket as the captive bolts stick through the nuts too far for ordinary sockets to get onto the nut.

2) Remove the driver's seat (unclip the small wire under the seat) and the lower part of the dash (under the steering wheel). There is a small box attached to the inside of the lower dash section that is wired into the main loom - you'll need to unscrew this before completely removing the dash section.



The bracket is secured by two nuts (which fasten onto two captive bolts which are welded to the bulkhead) and a bolt that secures the top of the bracket (right above the assist spring) that isn't shown on the first manual diagram but you can just see it on the second. It's a b4st4rd to get out as the spring is right in the way. You can use a long thin socket or alternatively a long thin(ner) screwdriver, which is easier.

I did things in this order:

- remove seat
- loosen or remove plastic 'Skyline' sill plate
- remove driver's kick panel
- remove lower dash section (there's a metal clip behind the dash just to the left of the driver's air vent - helps if you can shine a torch in the gap and wiggle ir free with a slim screwdriver)
- lie on back with inspection lamp uncomfortably close to your forehead (pause to check for smell of burning hair) and get a good look under the dash at the bracket
- use long socket 12mm and remove bulkhead nuts (the bolts do not come out)
- unclip clutch switch
- using needle-nosed pliers, remove snap-pin on clutch pedal arm clevis pin (that secures it to the clutch master cylinder pushrod). Withdraw securing pin. This gives you a little movement on the clutch pedal
- push clutch pedal slightly back and unfasten the bolt that secures the top of the bracket (good luck - it's a bugger to get to!!)
- being very careful to not bend the clutch master cylinder pushrod, wiggle the clutch bracket until it comes free

It's then just a case of dismantling the bracket assembly but BE CAREFUL - when you remove the fulcrum pin as the pedal arm is under quite a bit of tension from the spring - I removed the clutch switch then laid the bracket on the floor and gave the spring a tap with a screwdriver/hammer to release it from the level arm on the pedal. You'll need to lever the pedal/spring a few times when fitting to the new bracket as it's obviously gotta be tensioned.

When refitting it's the reverse of above - I'd recommend initially putting both bulkhead nuts and the top bolt on by hand - it's very awkward but it's the only way to ensure you don't cross-thread, as you have very little unobstructed access so if you offer the nuts/bolt up on the end of a socket or screwdriver it's almost impossible to get them on correctly.

Only tools you need are socket set (with long 12mm socket), screwdrivers, inspection lamp, needle nose pliers (small), spanners.

The whole job was a bit of a ballache (as are most jobs on the Skyline) but with a bit of care I managed a first in my years of Skyline ownership - I completed a job without skinning my knuckles, smacking my head, or losing any skin or blood :D But I then walked into the edge of the front door when coming back in (feeling all smug) and cut myself. Pillock :chuckle:
 
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It

Wasnt that much of a job removing it.Gave the apprentice the job and 10 mins later he came back with the bracket. You must be a wooos Jim. LOL


Tony:bowdown1: :bowdown1:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
PMSL quite possibly :chuckle: It was just really fiddly - my original bracket had split through the spotwelds and through the top (above the master cylinder pushrod). Because of this the bracket had distorted and the right side had pushed outwards, blocking access to the right-hand nut. It took a few minutes to remove the seats and again for the lower dash section. Then only a couple of minutes to get the first nut off. Then absolutely frikkin ages to get the second nut off. LOL :D

But it took much longer to put it back on as it was neigh on impossible to get the nuts and the bolt threaded up square and true as there was no clear access to them for a socket or screwdriver.

And let's not forget - I'm a northerner. Therefore I'm soft :chuckle:

Tony - huuuuge thanks for sorting out the spare bracket :)
 
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