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They recommend inspection, yes. Doesn't mean a full strip and rebuild unless there is a good reason to do it. A good reason being anything from a strange noise/actual failure to the user NEEDING it to work and being willing to drop the cash. A competitive racer for example. My car is for fun, not for racing, and thus far (fingers crossed) I've had no issues requiring investigation. If it breaks now, I won't lose any sleep. I'll get it repaired and do exactly the same thing again. I went for it eyes wide open, knowing it isn't for everyone, but being confident that I could deal with it if it didn't work out.
My car is for Fun too, but it won't be much fun if I keep having transmission problems. Would like to know how Mercury Motorsport get on with there's in the Nitto running 1100ATW through it. For me 10 grand is a lot of money on something that MIGHT be ok, I'll just sit tight and if a SH one comes up that's been refreshed I might take my chances, thanks for you feedback tho!


The pre-load is an interesting question. Yes, I try to - however, it's a fine line when there's a load cell and GCU involved because slightly too vigorous a pre-load pressure on the lever will cut the ignition before you've given a positive pull for the change. This is potentially a bit specific to the way the shifts are set up on my car but it's certainly an issue for me. On track, I trust the Geartronics to do its job and shift without any thought about loading the box. You shouldn't have to be worrying about that on the way out of a long corner, on the karting line in the pouring rain.
I was thinking that with the preload, must be very hard to preload it without confusing it to thinking your gonna change gear, totally agree you shouldn't have to worry about it when trying to concentrate on other things
 

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Nismo R-Tune. Upping the boost isn't always the answer, pressure doesn't equal flow and it's not measured inside the cylinder, there was a discussion on a thread by Dan (as he was questioning why my engine ran lower boost than most) and it was answered in there by more knowledgeable people than me. No intention of reopening the thread Ben, I'm almost at the point of giving up now my main focus is the boy's karting
Fair play if your lads doing well he's more important, you must be proud of him doing well in something your interested in! If your giving up does that mean a Hollinger may be coming up for sale? Seen as there parked next to each other, first Dibs lol?


Not sure, maybe ask him but I don't think he's running more power, just a lot less weight.
Oh fair enough I thought he was running abit more but even if he was having less weight would even it up, just trying to find out who's using what and how there all holding up
 

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Fair play if your lads doing well he's more important, you must be proud of him doing well in something your interested in! If your giving up does that mean a Hollinger may be coming up for sale? Seen as there parked next to each other, first Dibs lol?
It's something we do as a family so the car has taken a back seat; very proud of the boy, he's on race pace as a novice and has had a top ten finish in both his novice races (he's done 2 out of 5 novice races) - what's great about that is novices have to start last and in one heat he managed to finish 5th from a field of 42! The aim next year is to try and win rookie of the year and finish well in NKF.

No intention of selling anything yet as we love doing TOTB.

Oh fair enough I thought he was running abit more but even if he was having less weight would even it up, just trying to find out who's using what and how there all holding up
From the calculation, my car was running around 1100ATW at TOTB. If Jeff's car was the same weight he'd need to be running 1300+ATW or be the same power but 400kg less weight. It really isn't comparing apples to apples though, mine is a full interior over weight road car and Jeff's is a dedicated drag car - IMHO and not knocking Jeff's car at all, his results speak for themselves, very impressive! :bowdown:

Hats off as well, he's got a lot more grip than I have! That's one thing that's letting mine down at the moment is the tyres/launch technique.
He's using Holinger btw.
 

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It's something we do as a family so the car has taken a back seat; very proud of the boy, he's on race pace as a novice and has had a top ten finish in both his novice races (he's done 2 out of 5 novice races) - what's great about that is novices have to start last and in one heat he managed to finish 5th from a field of 42! The aim next year is to try and win rookie of the year and finish well in NKF.
He's clearly got some talent then! I have a little girl so all I see is Horses, somehow I've agreed to put up our new stables in the morning! Would much rather be changing tyres on a Kart lol


From the calculation, my car was running around 1100ATW at TOTB. If Jeff's car was the same weight he'd need to be running 1300+ATW or be the same power but 400kg less weight. It really isn't comparing apples to apples though, mine is a full interior over weight road car and Jeff's is a dedicated drag car - IMHO and not knocking Jeff's car at all, his results speak for themselves, very impressive! :bowdown:

Hats off as well, he's got a lot more grip than I have! That's one thing that's letting mine down at the moment is the tyres/launch technique.
He's using Holinger btw.
Agreed, Jeffs is some car! Hoping to get mine to Totb next year if all goes well
 

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I was thinking that with the preload, must be very hard to preload it without confusing it to thinking your gonna change gear, totally agree you shouldn't have to worry about it when trying to concentrate on other things
Beng87,

My advice is, that regardless of manufacturer, you should preload the gearlever to speed up gearchanges.

I also believe it is kinder to the gearbox as well as reducing the time to change gear.

It takes no effort and is not a worry, just good practise.
 

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He's clearly got some talent then! I have a little girl so all I see is Horses, somehow I've agreed to put up our new stables in the morning! Would much rather be changing tyres on a Kart lol
He's quite a natural talent, the team has been training him since he was 6 in a cadet kart where most would concentrate on bambino. So even though he's just starting racing, he's been testing most weekends for the past 18 months in his kart.

Our girl is just 1 week old and we're actually at the track now ready for testing tomorrow and racing on Sunday, I think the only horses she'll see will be BHPs. :chuckle:

Hoping to get mine to Totb next year if all goes well
It's the only event I look forward to now.
 

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My advice is, that regardless of manufacturer, you should preload the gearlever to speed up gearchanges.

I also believe it is kinder to the gearbox as well as reducing the time to change gear.

It takes no effort and is not a worry, just good practise.

Thanks for the advise Hugh, really don't no which way I'll end up going with transmission so all advise is grateful!
Having never drove a sequential can you be abit more detailed in how you Preload it correctly? Is it as simple as just pulling back on the lever until you feel it bite before the gear engages?

Only thing I've drove with an uprated box is a Quaife Dog Box in a 500bhp Escort Cossie but it was H pattern
 

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Thanks for the advise Hugh, really don't no which way I'll end up going with transmission so all advise is grateful!
Having never drove a sequential can you be abit more detailed in how you Preload it correctly? Is it as simple as just pulling back on the lever until you feel it bite before the gear engages?

Only thing I've drove with an uprated box is a Quaife Dog Box in a 500bhp Escort Cossie but it was H pattern
Someone watching you change gear would not notice anything other than a smooth action.

The motion of the gear lever is a slight pause while you apply force to the gear lever to preload, you can then lift the throttle / press the clutch / allow the strain gauge to initiate a fuel cut to allow the gear lever to swiftly move to the next gear.

What you must not do when changing gear is to lift the throttle before pulling on the gear lever, this will lead to a slow change and potentially damage the dogs on the gears.
 
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