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Hi all,

Been on this forum a long time, don't post much so thought it's long overdue that I create a project thread - hope you enjoy!

My skyline ownership started back in 2004 when I bought a very clean R33.




It was an auto so never quite bonded with it, it got me thinking what a GTR must be like so I decided relatively early on that my next car was going to be an R33 GTR, roll on 14 months and it became a reality.

I purchased my car in September 2006 with around 58k miles, it was imported into the UK in early 2005 by Vine Place (http://www.vineplace.co.uk), the 1st UK owner kept it as a daily driver for 18 months (doing very little mileage) prior to selling to me. The car was a series 2 that came with some non-standard items including a HKS hi-power silent cat back exhaust, Apexi filters, Recaro speed seats (both) with recaro rails and Work Meister S2R (18"x9") wheels.

The OEM extra's I could see on the car were Nismo N1 vents, Nismo bonnet lip, carbon fibre intercooler surround, Nismo spats, a de-locked boot with both front and rear gold GTR badges.

The bad points were that the car also came with some silly front side lights attached which were wired using the original side light wiring with holes being cut into the bumper, this was the first thing that I had to put right.

Pic of car from original sale advert:



The wheels were also missing one centre cap so I decided to remove the remaining caps as I couldn't source a replacement, to be honest I wasn't a big fan of the wheels nor centre caps so the view was to replace at some point in the future. With the car sitting on some stock Vspec shocks, I felt that the ride height was far too high so I was on the hunt for some coilovers. I ended up buying a set of second hand Apexi coilovers, these were not the N1 variants but an older version (blue in colour), they were however adjustable both in terms of ride height and damper, the spring rates were very slightly harsher than the stock springs so all in all I was pleased with them.



I then decided that that the orange indicators and side repeaters had to go and some D Speed front with Nismo side repeaters were added, car at this stage looked like:




The car was then treated to a full service including all oils (engine, gearbox etc), cambelt, spark plugs and then driven as my daily. At the next MOT, only advisories were tyres (cheap budget Marshalls) that had started to split at the sidewalls, these were swapped with a set of Michelin Pilot Sports which were far better in both dry and in the wet.

The car performed very well considering the level of tune, the brake discs were however beginning to play up, pads were EBC red stuff all round which ended up eating away at the discs. Marc @ the Garage in Motherwell was contacted and I decided on replacing these with Performance Friction 2 piece front discs with DBA 4000 series for rears with Ferrodo DS2500 pads all round, this combination I felt worked well for a road car however let off a bit more brake dust than the EBC red stuff pads.


Things were well...........up until.......November 2007. A spirited drive one night ended with a spun bearing. Recovery was called immediately and the car was transported to The Garage (Motherwell). The worst case scenario was confirmed by Marc so at this point I had already decided I would go down the forged route, question was on whether I wanted just a forged bottom end or a stroker kit, price wise wasn't much in it so decided on purchasing a Tomei RB28 stroker kit (86.5mm pistons). Marc commenced the built and 6 months later after some delays my car was ready to pick up, budget constraints meant turbos etc would stay stock for the time being. No pics to share on the actual engine build as inadvertently one of Marc's staff ended up losing my build pics.....not much that can be done about it but full build consisted of:



I ended up adding a couple of extras into the build, Tomei Turbo elbows with a Trust downpipe. Without a re-mappable ECU, the AFR was checked and then a decat pipe added, performance wise the car certainly sounded a lot more throatier, with a lot more low down torque / stock turbos spooling that little bit sooner.

I had also bought a daily driver so the car was then only driven at weekends and just to finish things off decided to refurb the wheels as the paint was flaking with the aim being an all round presentable car.
Wheels wise decided on mirror polished lip (carried out by the Polisher) and then centres painted gunmetal by Buchan Automotive:
Before:




WIP:


After:




With the addition of 20mm hubcentric spacers all round:










Engine with polished tt pipe and apexi hardpipes, painted rocker covers and plenum:


Night pic:



Roll on six or so months and my suspension top mounts started to squeak, tried a couple of fixes which didn't work so replaced the suspension with Tein Superstreets with top mounts and EDFC, the decision was based on the car being a fast road car and the ability to send the units off for a refresh/rebuild if needed in the future. Suspension was fitted with the car being lowered further and then tracking all set.


Added a GTR fuse box cover / washer bottle cover purchased from the GTROC shop and some Tein tension rods fitted (no pics).



Around 1 year later, I then started to purchase parts slowly in order to fulfil the potential of the stroker kit, parts included remappable ECU/ boost controller / AFMs / turbos / injectors / clutch / cams. So ended up with a nice collection that looked like:



ATS Twin plate Carbon Clutch (addition of OS Giken pull to push converter)
Tomei ARMS Turbos M8260 kit
Tomei Poncam Type B
Nismo FPR
Injector Dynamics 1000cc injectors
Tomei Fuel Pump
Nismo AFMS
Apexi Power FC with Commander
Apexi AVCR Boost controller


Next step naturally was to get everything fitted:




























Also changed spark plugs (same as before Greddy HR 8) and coilpacks to splitfires:




Car was then road mapped - low boost 1.4 bar / high boost 1.7 bar.
Boost levels on boost controller:
Low boost:


High boost:



Next was a set of OEM xenon's (won't go into the all the issues here!), let's just say lesson learnt.....
















Felt it totally freshened up the front of the car.
Also added some instrument LED bulbs (no pics taken).
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Continued

Oh - on a cold December night last year - highest boost level reached:


Then turned to interior, my recaro speeds served me well however felt I needed something a bit newer looking so sourced a set of Integra DC5 recaro's, they did have bolster wear but these were to be re-trimmed anyway and as they were interchangeable on my recaro rails, thought it would be worth it considering the price paid:
Drivers:


Passenger:


Will come back to these......

New wheels finally! - TE37s 19*10.5 in ET12 - didn't like the colour so refurbed in satin black:













Fitted with alignment done and oil change whilst I was there:

























Offset:




Once wheels were fitted, a driftworks hicas delete kit was purchased and fitted:





Wheels with volk racing lugs fitted:



Back to the seats:




Have always rubbed the door card:


New Seats:
Black Alcantara with black tweed inserts, red stitching and red recaro logo:


Old Vs New








Seats are narrower than the speeds but they fit me perfectly so pleased with the outcome.


A recent purchase:


Removed some of the stickers, still need to polish the panel but decided to fit as is for now:


This takes me up to a couple of weeks when I dropped the car off to Zealou5 for them to work some magic on much needed bodywork, it was a long trip (over 400 miles), met with Bobby's very warm welcome where the first thing he did was to stick the kettle on before we started to talk about the car.





Explained that the car is fast road car and not a show car so looking to make things more presentable rather than too much bling.

Things needing sorted:

Remove all rust
To roll both rear arches (wheels rub at times)
Refresh Subframes / polybush / repaint suspension arms
Fix jacking point damage and protect underside
Repaint brake calipers / front bells and rear hubs
repaint / refresh as necessary

Hope you have enjoyed the journey so far.......over to you Bobby...........
 

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Excellent thread, you've done a great job. Car looks great, with regards to lowering the car, did you have any ploblems getting the front camber setup correctly? I have adjustable front camber arms, but adjustment is very limited, so can't get the camber correct if the cars to low.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Excellent thread, you've done a great job. Car looks great, with regards to lowering the car, did you have any ploblems getting the front camber setup correctly? I have adjustable front camber arms, but adjustment is very limited, so can't get the camber correct if the cars to low.
Thanks for the positive words - since fitting the wheels they do rub more so rears, I've had car raised plus I'm running 285 all round which don't help. Yes the camber is limited in terms of adjustment but I've not had Marc mention it to me as an issue so take that as a no.
 

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Looks excellent, love the new seats also,and for te37s,we all know they are thee wheel for the skylines! Nice one man
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Very nice project mate! Awesome :)

Lovely 33 you have,best wheels for any skyline gtr. Seats look great to actually really up my street might take a look.

I

Looks excellent, love the new seats also,and for te37s,we all know they are thee wheel for the skylines! Nice one man

Looking very nice.
If you need a full adjustable geometry setup front and back give me a shout.


Love what you have done with the car bud good job.

Nice tasty items you have purchased and put on the car
Thanks guys - really appreciate it:thumbsup:
 

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Good update, and a lovely collection of part you've got together, like the shot of the engine bay while fitting the turbos, nothing like having a lot of space to work in, as for the 400 mile trip, you know it will be worth it, Bob and the team will look after your car as if it's their own, really looking forward to seeing what happens over the next few months.

Kev
 

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Apologies for the very late update, these thing take soooooooo long to compile so with an expectant fiancé its not the easiest thing to get away with doing
when there's jobs to be done around the house! :D

Adeel I have to say is probably our most distant customer, not in that way :chuckle: but the fact he drove all the way from Scotland and then flew back afterwards,
id say that was true dedication from a guy to his car if ever I saw it!:wavey:

So the car got a wee wash before we started on his list of to do's.




As always we love the first time a car gets up on our ramps, as each and every Skyline is the product of it's owner's desires, :cool:
every single one will hold a few nice surprises.
Also its good to try and assess the general condition and go through the common corrosion areas and see how each one has fared.



As Adeel had asked for the full works with regards to the underside rust removal and subframe refurb we started by stripping down the car into its components.



The surface rust on the diff was the bright red!

Weirdly some of the common rust areas were fine but others were not.





The tein dampers were already starting to say goodbye to the very poor covering of paint they use.

Removal of the side skirts and rear spats showed up some quite bad corrosion points.



The area under the rear subframe had also some quite bad surface rust and deeper corrosion.



We always, alway's remove all rust back to clean metal, there is no point doing it any other way, once the rust is deep it needs to be removed.







Much better!:thumbsup:

:)
 

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Other areas that would need our attention as we moved forward.



Rust and sill crushing damage.



Both strut tops also need doing, they were quite far gone, but not dangerous.
As soon as you see rust pushing through the tops you know the inners will be full of the nasty brown stuff.

Here's a quick photo documentation of the process, (it's a lot more involved than the pics look but I could spend a week
going through the actual process and bore everyone silly so i'll let the pics do the talking.
(again you have to remove every trace of rust right back to bare metal, and deep treat and then protect before reinstating the donor struts).
All metal has to be surgical spotless.






Not for the faint hearted! :eek:



:eek:



The donors go through the same process of removal.
(all components are media blasted first).



Reinstating.







Clean up.



All new clean, protected and rust free strut top in primer.
(the outer sections which need to be cut out to gain full access haven't been fitted in this pic).




The other side shows some of the steps I didn't manage to shoot when we were working on the drivers side.

You can see the rust literally bursting through the panal below.









donor clean up and removal.



donor top



Lower section of strut repaired, cleaned back and protected.



trimmed to fit back in perfectly, with loads of good zinc protection on all hidden surfaces pre welding.



:)
 

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Back onto the underside.

Some pretty deep crusty rust down below was found throughout.
Nothing that fazes us though. :wavey:









This sort of rust requires a lot of hard graft to get it all back to clean metal, I mean a lot!!! :runaway:







After hours and hours the metal starts to look almost human again!
:wavey:



We then treat the bare metal with a phosphoric acid and then leave over night to pull the ingrained stuff out then go again to remove 100% of the nasty stuff.

Of course the boot interior needed the same treatment.





All the bad stuff was cut out too to be replaced with new metal.



welding



grinding



:)

The higher boot floor had some sections where the rear bumper bars mount that had gone through the seam sealer and just rusted out quite badly.
All had to be cut out and new panels welding in then protected and seam sealed.









The other side.







:thumbsup:

Back to the underside clean up. Days and days of rust removal.





The fuel and brake lines etc will all need replacing, really are in a dangerous state here.




With the boot floor spotless and all welding repairs made to that section we can now apply the first coat of silver Epoxy! Looks so sweet and what a difference! :bowdown1:



We work forward a section at a time, to protect the cleaned up areas we've done from starting to corrode again.

Next section, move forward, clean up......you get the idea.:)











:)
 

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With the rear lower arch sections fabricated and welded in they could be added to the list of things done.





Next after stripping down to its components and sending the subframe off to the be blasted and powder coated
it was time to rebuild with the awesome combination of SuperPro and Whiteline (Main subframe bushes).



Final clean up of all interface surfaces prior to fitting the new bushes.



Looks lush!:cool:



All suspension arms had their worn out rubber Nissan bushes removed and then were also blasted before powder coating and poly bushed.
The hub carriers we media blast before protecting and then fit the poly bushes etc.
Before and after.



Rear diff gets the same attention to detail, back to clean metal and then a good coat of black Epoxy will keep things sweet!





Same with the drive shafts. (that's copper grease btw not rust on the splines).

:)
 

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Back to the lower body we've moved forward to the central part of the chassis and sills.



These removable small round panels in the floor will need taking out and fabricating new ones as they have started to rust quite badly.
(not too bad a job you just need to lift the sound deadening to get to them inside).





Crush damage cut out, all rust repaired and removed and then new panels fabricated to make perfect again.





All wheel arches cleaned back to bare metal to eliminate all rust, repairs made and acid treated prior to epoxy.





Front arches cleaned back of all OEm paint and underseal, reveals some but not too bad rusted areas that need repairing.



And here are some of the sections that had rusted in the front wheel arches, we cut the rust out fabricate new and weld in to make perfect.

Top suspension mounting ribs.





Corner of passengers lower front arch in front of kick plate.





Opposite side







And same on passengers side at top of suspension mounting on chassis.







Perfect



Section just in front of the subframe front mounts cut out.



and repaired.



The best bit, after all our hard work, getting the clean perfect metal protected!
:wavey:













We're absolutely delighted with the way Adeel's R33 GTR is now taking shape.
:thumbsup:
bob
 

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