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Discussion Starter #1
Sorry for the Bahamain Colloquialism, but I just had a thought about my GTR, and wondered if I got 'taken for a ride'.

Its a 1996 model, with under 57,000 km on the clock.

However, it has the NISMO white face gauges in it.

Now, my quesiton is, when you change to the NISMO piece does the odometer remain from the first gauge cluster or is it replaced with a new one that is set to 0000000 etc.

If this is the case and my car had milage on it before the change, is there anyway to verify what the actual milage is?

Or am I just freaking out for no reason???

Thanks guys for any help.
 

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The odometer will be part of the Nismo gauge so unless you have documentation to prove the mileage you will never know what the true total is.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
How lovely. Thats just wonderful news. :mad:

Oh well, that would probably explain why I have a problem shifting into fourth gear.

OH well. Can't will them all I guess. :rolleyes:
 

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4th Gear

Dont worry about gearbox crunching into 4th - that is usual with GTRs
and not necessarily symptomatic of high mileage - A lot of the
UK 33 GTRs crunched from new
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Really, well that a relief. I've just been letting the rpms drop so that I can get it into 4th smoothly then reving back up on clutch release.

At least I know that its "normal".

I figure that I still should change the fluid in the gearbox soon though. Just for peace of mind.

David.
 

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yeah i've just had my gearbox fluid changed at rb motorsport and now it is really smooth, before the service the gear box was terrible in 4th and 5th
 

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bloody hell, my nismo gauge is showing 169,000km, and I don't think they put that thing in when new!
 

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My gearbox oil is being changed tomorrow night,having it serviced.I was told to get silkolene silktran syn 5,not sure why but supposed to be the best!
 

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my R32 GTR had the infamous 3rd to 4th light crunch at high revs. redline heavyweight shockproof was put in from RK tuning and problem solved it changed smooth as silk now.

however this oil is very thick and takes quite a while to warm up but once it is warm your luaghing!
 

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I think Rod Bells use Redline shockproof - but can't swear to it, I just trust them to put the right stuff in! It certainly takes a while to warm up - selecting 1st when cold needs a good shove and it whines for a couple of miles. Sweet as a nut when warm though. This is on a GTT. My previous (33 GTR) also suffered from a slightly crunchy 4th gear change at high revs.
 

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Have heard that the Redline oil uses teeny tiny calcium 'balls', that provide an immediate 'cushioning' effect between moving parts, however longer term it has the same effect as putting sand in your gearbox :(

So personally I'm sticking to the Silkolyne stuff. Most GT-Rs have the 4th gear crunch under heavy load but I'd rather have my gearbox last longer and have to put up with the very occasional 3rd-to-4th crunch than risk accelerating gearbox wear exponentially. Each to their own though :)
 

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Have heard that the Redline oil uses teeny tiny calcium 'balls', that provide an immediate 'cushioning' effect between moving parts, however longer term it has the same effect as putting sand in your gearbox :(

So personally I'm sticking to the Silkolyne stuff. Most GT-Rs have the 4th gear crunch under heavy load but I'd rather have my gearbox last longer and have to put up with the very occasional 3rd-to-4th crunch than risk accelerating gearbox wear exponentially. Each to their own though :)
That's interesting.

I would be interested to know if anybody else can verify this.. :)
 

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ive not really heard the full story of redline oil but i was just told by RK and a few other good tuners that they use it all the time and have not had any problems, however i dont think they have used it long term as its mostly for their track cars.

but surely its more risky having it crunch everytime you change to 4th as its risking breaking/chipping a tooth and causing more tooth wear on 4th when you initially change gear.

i would also be very interested in what anyone else has to say on the subject.
 

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alot of imports are wound back before there sold over here in the uk, infact probably more than half
Usually done when you convert them, calculate what the mileage is, (kms to miles), then wind it back so it reads correctly, better than having to work out 'the first xxxxx were in kms then the rest is miles' we've wound dads Nismo clocks back to the original mileage, (mileage was guaranteed/documented). It's easy to do, which is a worry if the importer isn't very honest.

Alex B
 
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