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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had high hopes for the power output of my engine going by the specs of it and thought I would get it on the dyno to see if I can try and squeeze out a bit more economy for cruising and also possibly get a bit more power.....but the car produced nowhere near what I was expecting after reading what 2860-5 turbos are capable of making....

The engine was not built under my ownership..it was done in 2008. I do have the paperwork showing the parts purchased and the engine build receipts also.

Dyno graph (flywheel figure): http://i.imgur.com/hIV0A8E.jpg

Current spec of the engine:

Tomei Forged Pistons 87mm
Tomei Con rods
Tomei cams 260c 9.15m lift
Tomei cam pulleys
Tomei valve springs
NISMO N1 oil pump
Nismo Bearings
Nismo timing belt
Nismo fuel pump
Nismo fuel regulator
Garret 2860-5 ball bearing Turbos
HKS Actuators
HKS turbo elbows
Sard 700cc injectors
Splitfire coil packs
Greddy down pipe
Mocul Oil cooler kit
Greddy intercooler hard pipe kit
Oil filter relocation kit
Blitz Nur spec R
De cat
OS Giken twin plate clutch
Apexi PFC D-jetro
Greddy Prospec B

now I am left wondering what I should do to make the most out of these turbos...

I would appreciate any suggestions

The tuner told me two things I need to sort out:

1) I have a 3 inch catback exhaust system. But one of the gaskets on the decat pipe is slightly smaller than 3inches..maybe 2.5..and he mentioned I should definitely sort that out as that will cause unwanted restriction

2) he says both the O2 sensors are not working because when he turned them on in FcEdit software and watched the AFR on idle, nothing changed and the it continued to rise to between 15-16. Apparently, if both O2 sensors work then pfc will run in closed loop and the afr should automatically drop to ideal level..14.7 or something like that.

Below is an image of my PFC O2 sensor readings...its showing voltage movement on idle and driving...but never hits 1.00 volt, actually never went higher than 0.9volts. Sometimes it did drop to 0.00 volts when I was driving but didnt applying any throttle (coasting downhill)...

http://i.imgur.com/Q48tSI6.jpg

Video of Pfc Sensor check screen:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4yIN73hi9OM

Could someone advice me if the O2 sensor is indeed faulty...and also what and if there is anything I could do to squeeze a bit more out of my current engine and turbo setup? Maybe fuelling is an issue?

Thanks very much
 

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Call me cynical or paranoid, we live in a crazy world, do not take anything for face value. Until you actually crack your engine open you can never be sure what you have in there.

I was told my engine was an R33 engine, in fact it is not it is an R32 engine with a narrow drive crank. Papers showing what parts are fitted is worthless they could have just put in another less tuned engine with stock or stock ish parts.

I would get someone who knows the Rb26 to look at your issues as it seems like you are not comfortable with what you were told by your tuner who did the rolling road test.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
that was on high boost of 1.5bar. The tuner himself said he is a little disappointed also at the amount of power at that boost level...he would have expected more as he is familiar with these turbos.

I spent ages reading around a couple of threads I found here on these turbos and people's typical setups and what kind of power they made....so i suppose I was expecting atleast 550 at the fly if I am honest.

I don't think I am being over ambitious (am I?) - my expectation is just based on a number threads/posts I have read on this site before.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I carried out a compression test a few months ago at Garage-D and they said compression looks good....I don't know if I should have got more detail from them.
The tuner asked me if I know the compression ration of the engine and unfortunately I don't Probably in the paperwork somewhere but I haven't come across it.
 

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Call me cynical or paranoid, we live in a crazy world, do not take anything for face value. Until you actually crack your engine open you can never be sure what you have in there.

I was told my engine was an R33 engine, in fact it is not it is an R32 engine with a narrow drive crank. Papers showing what parts are fitted is worthless they could have just put in another less tuned engine with stock or stock ish parts.

I would get someone who knows the Rb26 to look at your issues as it seems like you are not comfortable with what you were told by your tuner who did the rolling road test.
+1

have the engine checked to confirm stated specs. if it is what you believe it is, i think you should get more power than that. get it remapped
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
thanks, I think I will have to do that.
RK tuning is the nearest to me and I am considering asking him to inspect the engine thoroughly to confirm what's really inside. With regards to the pistons and rods I suppose these cannot be seen without taking the head off :( :(

The tuner did not do a complete remap....abbey did the original map back in 2008 and I have a chart for that. So this tuner just looked at their map and adjusted the cam timing a tiny bit to be on the aggressive side and also leaned it out just slightly on high boost, nothing more. He said it already looks and running optimal and it would be safer to keep it like this.

Could anyone advice regarding the O2 sensors also?

Thanks again
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
i took the car to Eurospec after being suggested by another member on here and they were not very far from me. Ben was quite helpful and explained a few things to me clearly.

The only reason I mentioned O2 is because one of my aims was to sort out the cruise map also so that it could use a little less fuel and this is when he said O2 sensors aren't making a damn difference to the afr so it appears pfc is running in open loop regardless if they are on or off.

Regarding pistons and rods checking..thanks, I wasn't too sure about that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Romain wasn't there mate, it was Ben ( the owner I think ) who did the tuning today. He is the one who booked me in when I called last week and he dealt with me all afternoon today.
 

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it doesnt matter what pistons and rods you have, my engine made with stock internals [email protected], something else is wrong in your car, you should have much more power, last summer i lost 100hp on dyno when my 4wd doesnt work right, transfercase was slipping and dyno cant understund it, your 4wd working right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
yep as far as I know it is working fine. I replaced the gearbox and put in an os giken rebuild kit for the twin plate clutch also a few months ago. I can't imagine that it's been done wrong and affecting the power output. I am also certain that the nismo fuel pump is capable of supporting higher power.

I need a proper diagnosis as to what the heck is limiting it...500hp at 1bar?? At 1 bar my car made around 400 or just under... :(
 

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my setup was very similar as yours, except: little bit smaller turbos: t517z 8cm, different outlets: r34gtr, milder IN cam: 252/9.15, 87mm stock pistons and stock rods. exhaust was same size and same fuel system except nismo 600cc injectors what i got. 1.5bar it made 565hp/[email protected], and that was pretty much max for those turbos.

can intercooler be an issue?? i have greddy 100mm. put bigger gasket on your exhaust and check cam timing..
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hi
I changed the spark plugs about 2 months ago. I put in NGK model BKR8EIX ones after reading on a few threads that this is one of plugs people commonly use.
I believe they come already gaped....
 

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That's a lot of boost for not much power.

With -5's mapped at abbey I made 430 hub or 500 fly at 1.4b from a link g4. Ditch that old fc and invest into a new age ecu if your having problems with it, there actually really cheap considering what they can do. Iv got 2 boost maps amd launch control, ditched the mafs and O2 sensors and runs better than it ever did before
 
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