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Discussion Starter · #121 ·
Hindsight is a great thing. Decided to do the bottom end and the car is not even back on the road yet.

3 reasons,

1. My turbos are wasted running 750bhp when they can do around 900bhp
2. I would hate to break a rod and then fix it
3. I want more than 600lbs of torque. The lure of 800lbs is strong lol

1st off thought of being lazy and get someone else to build it for me. (still waiting on a few quotes to come in so might happen yet) but looks like I may well end up doing it myself. I did not realise how much a mechanics time was worth nowadays. Time to give up offshore maybe lol.

Parts List and rough prices

Bridgeway Rods with 625+ aged bolts £1000
Mahle Pistons £800 (need to double check they fit Bridgeway Rods)
Titan Main stud kit £500
HKS Head Gaskets £300
OEM Complete Gasket set £????
OEM Head stud kit £????. I hate Stud kits after my cossie days, nothing but bother.
Machine work £???? Balance crank Pistons etc

Time to complete,

Who knows, depends on other projects. including binning my 4 post ramp and getting a 2 poster.
 

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Aye.... need to come see you about that ramp ;)

Will the beast ever make it onto a road again? LOL - spent most its life being modified!
For those on here who have listened to the video he uploaded of the exhausts..... in person holy hell.... there a million times louder / angrier!
 

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Discussion Starter · #123 ·
:chuckle: yes 100% on the road this time home. Only a couple hours work left unless when I do the fuel pumps I fit all the sound proofing sitting in my house jumping at the bit to bieinstalled:eek:

Cant get time.

1st weekend home away in Edinburgh (hangover)
2nd weekend golf club doo and friends round (hangover)
3rd weekend away in Stirling (hangover)

not to mention I ripped the kitchen out last month and the new one is in the lounge:chairshot

Its a hard life!!
 

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Aye.... need to come see you about that ramp ;)

Will the beast ever make it onto a road again? LOL - spent most its life being modified!
For those on here who have listened to the video he uploaded of the exhausts..... in person holy hell.... there a million times louder / angrier!
800 breaks the gearbox.....
 

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Hi Paul i thought you would end doing this :)

do you think the gearbox will last clutches etc with that sort of torque

Think it could end up a expensive slippery slope , saying that i will be going down the same route if i still have mine come winter
 

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Discussion Starter · #129 ·
Goats lol

Yes I read the box will be next but that is not as catastrophic as rod failure.

I will uprated the clutch, clips then see what happens.

Yes this slope seems very steep and on the way down it is littered with trolls
Just waiting to get you lol
 

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In my experience - which is a lot with failed boxes - the box if it goes the wring way is a 10 grander.
 

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Discussion Starter · #131 ·
That would not be good. Second hand boxes are £3-4k.

From what I have read I am not convinced that any of the kit in the uk is much stronger then stock
 

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But then you have that cost PLUS upgrades. 10k

Ive been through the lot. Dodson gears and selectors, clutch packs and centre is what you will need. Oh and shafts. Do it right once. It cost me a lot. Now i have a box capable of 1000 lbft.
 

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Discussion Starter · #133 ·
so you run "Dodson gears and selectors, clutch packs and centre" and that's good for 1000lbs?

I will never be that high so would deffo do me.
 

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Was going to echo same point. You are crossing into the gearbox upgrade zone of torque. It's a serious consideration as you will ultimately need a gearkit as well as clutch....
 

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Discussion Starter · #137 ·
It wont be flat out initially anyway. When I do get the bottom end done I will be going COBB and self tuning so will be a slow controlled process getting up to full power.

I intend increasing power until the clutch slips then back it off a bit. Play with the tune to get it as smooth as possible and iron out as much lag as possible.

Once happy will fit uprated clutch then tune some more, then at some point uprate the box and go for flat out. It won't be a 2 min project its going to take me a while.
 

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just cap the boost a little and the box should be fine for a while, mine is restrained to 1.5 bar which holds about 700 lbft to 5000 rpm then upto 1.75 bar and peaks 760 lbft, your turbos will be a bit lazier aswell, as long as transition into boost is smooth and midrange is kept sensible it should be fine imo.


but a balls out map from the off will end in failure very quickly id of thought, Id like to just have 1.8 bar bang straight in hard but its not worth it as something will break.


also with massive low end torque grip will be an issue aswell imo



good luck with it paul, good to see someone doing a homebuild :clap:
 

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Discussion Starter · #140 ·
1.5 bar capped in low rpms will still be very quick I suspect. Yes reading loads re how to reduce lag. It seems plenty can be done through valve timing.

According to Ben my turbos are ok to 1.8bar. That will be the very max I run higher up the rev range.

That COBB stuff looks very complex and intuitive. hope its as good as it sounds

I am not sure how much control COBB gives but I intended having different boost limits in different gears to aid traction. The new COBB stuff may negate the need for bespoke limits?
 
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