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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited by Moderator)
***** INTRODUCTION *****

I originally started this thread just to show you guys what I had done to my Audio, and in particular, my OEM Bose bass box. Having such promising feedback, it was suggested that these would be great as a group buy in kit form that anyone with an R35 could fit themselves as an easy DIY solution.

The beauty of the solution is the fact that I have managed to source the original OEM connectors and wired them into a custom made loom ready to simply bolt the new sub box directly into the standard fit location and plug n play into the existing nissan connector. With a mono block amp mounted on the supplied backboard behind the rear seats. It makes for a perfect stealth subwoofer upgrade which can be reverted back to standard within 30 minutes.

The kit comprises of a choice of two amps, choice of two subwoofers, a custom fit sealed 18mm MDF enclosure and custom wiring loom which plugs directly into the nissan bose plug. I also include the fixing bolts, washers, Gold plated fuse holder with 30amp fuse and good quality Oxygen free wiring.

I can also supply single sheets of sound proofing which is recommended whilst you have rear seats out.

At the bottom of this first post are the prices and options. If you are interested, please PM me or simply reply to this thread.

*************************

I decided that I’d had enough of the standard Bose subwoofers. They’re truly awful. And having now taken them out, I can understand why it sounds like it does. Two 9” free air pancakes with magnets smaller than golf balls.

So, my first port of call was to Dynamat the car to take care of any rattles (both relative to the new sub and also the standard car). I didn’t have any rattles to be fair apart from the normal parcel shelf one which is a ball ache to fix but the main goal was to provide a little bit of sound proofing to my full Japspeed exhaust and downpipes and any resonance that I might get from the new sub.

The dynamatting took about 3 hours to do and like you can see in the pictures, I did the whole back seat areas including rear firewall and side panels. I used Dynamat extreme and a whole bulk pack was used to do the back end plus a couple of spare sheets went into the boot floor. Its 36 sqft in a pack. I also had some closed cell foam sheets which I put in places where I could get away with 6mm of clearance before panels had to go on. Just to add another layer of sound proofing.



REALLY pleased at the results and somewhat not what I was expecting. It’s hard to describe the benefits you get from this Dynamat install but it’s not really a huge drop in db from before. Yes, it IS a drop, but more than that, it’s a more muted, civilised sound. Just more solid and grown up. Gearbox noises are MUCH quieter, in fact almost non-existent compared to before and my calliper clips rattle has gone

Right, next was onto the subwoofer upgrade. I wasn’t really wanting to fill the boot with a subwoofer and I wasn’t really wanting to get involved in getting to know the under seat Bose amplifier or lifting carpets to run new cables but I wanted more bass.

Having looked at the way it’s wired, it seemed criminal not to simply tap into the existing wiring going to the standard subs and utilise these with a new amp and sub combo in the existing space. The existing Nissan cabling is doubled up for power and ground (2 x power cables and 2 x earth cables are within the loom) so that would be fine for a monoblock amp running a single 8” sub.

Thanks have to go to Charles Charlie who got me the wiring diagram for the existing subwoofer box plug and I simply tapped into those wires to get my power, earth, ignition on and sub signal (connector now sourced for plug n play solution).

Out went the old box and I used it to make a cardboard template version of my new box. I was able to get 16” in height so that if I wanted to, in the future, I could fit two 8” subs in the box but for now my plan was just for one (if you read further into the thread, you will see that two subs is not recommended - see page 12).



Once I’d made the template and tested it fit, I made the new box from MDF to the same dimensions. It was all secured with wood glue and screws and then sealed with mastic to give a completely sealed box of around 0.5 cuft. The subwoofer I used was a JBL 8” unit specifically designed for small boxes. In fact, it works in boxes as small as 0.3 cuft so any plans to put two in, should still work.



Using the same fixings as the factory sub (with longer bolts as I was 18mm thicker), I put the sub in and due to limited space inside the standard rear sub plastic surround, I had to run the wiring out into the boot to fit the amp on the back of the rear firewall.



The amplifier I used was chosen specifically as I had experience of fitting one on a previous car and they are FANTASTIC little amps. It’s a Vibe Litebox Bass 1. It’s the larger 400w RMS model which will give about 600w RMS into two ohm but I’m happy at 400w into 4 ohm. Another great thing about this amp is the remote control bass output control which I’ve tucked up next to the handbrake so I can alter the output depending on music type or speed.



Trim put back in place for a complete stealth upgrade :-









I thought I would show a comparison between the Bose subs and the new subs.







I’m really happy at how the new sub sounds. It’s SO much better than standard with deep lows and bass you can feel shake your hair and clothes if that what you want. It’s become apparent that my lack of bass originally was only exaggerated by my full replacement exhaust. In fact, it’s a good job I have the bass remote control inside the car as I’m having to turn down the bass when I am parked up and turn it back up when I am driving.

It must be good as I have started to get my Iphone loaded up with loads of music I used to listen to when I used to have good sounds in a car.

It’s also great to know that my install can be removed from the car and the standard put back in about 30 minutes. I’ve not run new cables, drilled holes anywhere or compromised the look or used any space. It looks standard (apart from the amp on the back firewall), yet works brilliantly.

***** PRICES *****

One Sub Setup Includes :-

One JBL-804 8" 4 Ohm Subwoofer
Custom, hand made, sealed box from 18mm MDF
Hand made wiring loom including:-
Pre-Made and terminated 8AWG Oxygen Free Power Cable
Pre-made and terminated 8AWG Oxygen Free Ground cable
Gold plated in-line AGU fuse holder and 30 Amp Fuse
Oxygen Free RCA cable,
Remote Switch-on Cable (amp may auto switch - will check)
Oxygen Free Subwoofer Cable
Vibe Litebox Bass 1 Mono Block Amp including bass remote

Price - £295.00
Delivery - £15 (or collect FOC)

Options Available :-

Substitute Vibe Litebox Bass 1 Amp with JL Audio JX500/1D Mono Block Amplifier
£25 Extra

Substitute the JBL-804 Subwoofer with JL Audio 8w3v3-4 8” Subwoofer
£90 Extra

No Amp
£120 can be subtracted

Bass Controller (JL amp only - vibe comes with one) - £15

Dead Quiet Sound Deadening Sheet (18" x 32") - £12 (get away with two sheets. Four probably best)

 

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Nice job, I'm sure you would have a few takers if you put a kit together!
 

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Nice one! I plan to do something like this over the summer and now with your guide I feel more confident :)

I Dynamat-ed some of the rear as I had some problems taking the trims out from the rear... you don't happen to have a guide of removing the rear trims do you? :D

I'm thinking of going with twin 8" subs (seen an example on Youtube) but not sure of which amp to pick yet. Need a fairly low powered one since I will be tapping power from wires and also one that will deliver clean bass...

p/s: any pics of the sub with all trims back on?
 

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I have the facility to machine wood sheets (MDF/Birch Ply/Chipboard etc) using a CNC machine if anyone wants to send some CAD drawings over. Also get a very good price as buy a 40ft trailers worth of 18mm MDF a week! Could also get it assembled with staples/screws/wood glue using our framers. This would help out those who aren't comfortable with doing it themselves but it won't be as cost effective in my opinion!

Nice job buddy, wish I had the time to do this!
 

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I have the facility to machine wood sheets (MDF/Birch Ply/Chipboard etc) using a CNC machine if anyone wants to send some CAD drawings over. Also get a very good price as buy a 40ft trailers worth of 18mm MDF a week! Could also get it assembled with staples/screws/wood glue using our framers. This would help out those who aren't comfortable with doing it themselves but it won't be as cost effective in my opinion!

Nice job buddy, wish I had the time to do this!
Well if you and as5606 could team up for some kind of group buy I am sure there will be people interested (I am interested for one!) pending on the final product :)

I can see a potential here if the box fits perfectly in the OEM location and looks OEM with trims back on.
 

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Having been in as5606's car I can vouch for the deep bass and clear sound.

Oh, and the exhaust sounds incredible on full chat. :))
 

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Am sure there are companies who make frp moulds of subwoofer boxes specifically for use in stock locations.

Can no one get a first item made?
 

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Well if you and as5606 could team up for some kind of group buy I am sure there will be people interested (I am interested for one!) pending on the final product :)

I can see a potential here if the box fits perfectly in the OEM location and looks OEM with trims back on.
And then team up with an installer like Valet Magic or PW pro up north and you have a drive in and out solution :D
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hi guys,

Thanks for all your nice comments.

I'll take a picture with the seats and trim back in but I can assure you, it looks like it never happened ;)

I suppose I might be interested in doing a group buy of these. It would certainly be easier if I had someone like buzzysingh to help out with the cutting but as to supplying a CAD drawing :runaway:. It certainly was a learning curve and took quite a long time to plan and prepare the right sizes and source the perfect combo.

Would give me something to do on these winter nights :nervous:

Do I need to speak with Mook regarding trading?

Suppose we need to identify who might be interested. If I could find the correct female connector for the Nissan Plug, it would be even easier and would save the soldering (which is my preference to connectors). If not, you could send me your standard subbox and I''ll modify it and send you back the whole lot, all done :thumbsup:

I'd need to think about how it would be easier to do in bulk but I'm sure I'll work something out.

So, anyone interested in one? Supplied with Sub, Amp, Cables and install guide. Could probably offer a twin 8" version as well. Just numbers for now. Cost would probably be less than £300 but depends on numbers and source for equipment.
 

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Got a photo of it with everything back together?
 

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I have the facility to machine wood sheets (MDF/Birch Ply/Chipboard etc) using a CNC machine if anyone wants to send some CAD drawings over. Also get a very good price as buy a 40ft trailers worth of 18mm MDF a week! Could also get it assembled with staples/screws/wood glue using our framers. This would help out those who aren't comfortable with doing it themselves but it won't be as cost effective in my opinion!

Nice job buddy, wish I had the time to do this!
Id be interested :)
 

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Interested list

1) EAndy
2) Grahamc
3) Anders_R35
 

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No need to do mdf, get a fibreglass one made.

You then have a mould made and can knock them out in quick succession. You then just bond the fibreglass to an mdf back board.

The key thing is to get someone like Andy to make a plug and play harness for intercepting the sub output so no one has to cut or tap into anything.
 

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Hi guys,

Thanks for all your nice comments.

I'll take a picture with the seats and trim back in but I can assure you, it looks like it never happened ;)

I suppose I might be interested in doing a group buy of these. It would certainly be easier if I had someone like buzzysingh to help out with the cutting but as to supplying a CAD drawing :runaway:. It certainly was a learning curve and took quite a long time to plan and prepare the right sizes and source the perfect combo.

Would give me something to do on these winter nights :nervous:

Do I need to speak with Mook regarding trading?

Suppose we need to identify who might be interested. If I could find the correct female connector for the Nissan Plug, it would be even easier and would save the soldering (which is my preference to connectors). If not, you could send me your standard subbox and I''ll modify it and send you back the whole lot, all done :thumbsup:

I'd need to think about how it would be easier to do in bulk but I'm sure I'll work something out.

So, anyone interested in one? Supplied with Sub, Amp, Cables and install guide. Could probably offer a twin 8" version as well. Just numbers for now. Cost would probably be less than £300 but depends on numbers and source for equipment.
Hi pal,

Nice work ! I can supply a 3D CAD model and/or drawings no problem, all i need are the dimensions of the finished unit.

PM if interested.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
No need to do mdf, get a fibreglass one made.

You then have a mould made and can knock them out in quick succession. You then just bond the fibreglass to an mdf back board.

The key thing is to get someone like Andy to make a plug and play harness for intercepting the sub output so no one has to cut or tap into anything.
Thanks but I haven't worked with Fibreglass before and have never thought it would be a solid as an MDF one. Will look into it though.

I can make up the looms so no worries there. Just need to source the Nissan connector to plug directly into the car. Working on it :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Hi pal,

Nice work ! I can supply a 3D CAD model and/or drawings no problem, all i need are the dimensions of the finished unit.

PM if interested.
Cheers mate. You're local to me as well so may well be in touch. Need to get interest first before I get carried away. I'd probably need ten interested parties before I could start a batch and get plans etc drawn up.
 

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No need to do mdf, get a fibreglass one made.

You then have a mould made and can knock them out in quick succession. You then just bond the fibreglass to an mdf back board.

The key thing is to get someone like Andy to make a plug and play harness for intercepting the sub output so no one has to cut or tap into anything.
I'm not sure a fibre glass enclosure would have the required acoustic properties? Most of the base boxes I've come across have been made from MDF.
 
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