Dyno
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Salaam guys, hope you guys are both well and that all is good with you, yeah I've heard from a few different people that SRR are probably the best guys for it but at the same time I've heard that dynoing the gtr in general can damage the diff as it puts too much pressure on the diff and I'm concerned about that issue. I'm keen to find out what my car is pushing at the moment because I'm thinking of getting some mods done to it in the near future so it would be nice to see the difference once moded.
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824 Posts
What mods do you have on yours at the moment?
I was concerned about this issue too but have had mine dyno'd twice now. Like the guys have said take it to someone that has had known experience on GTR's and you'll be fine. In my experience at the lower end (upto 650bhp) the cars are never on the dyno for more than a couple of runs.
Btw guys did SRR move premises in the end...sorry to side track Tak
I was concerned about this issue too but have had mine dyno'd twice now. Like the guys have said take it to someone that has had known experience on GTR's and you'll be fine. In my experience at the lower end (upto 650bhp) the cars are never on the dyno for more than a couple of runs.
Btw guys did SRR move premises in the end...sorry to side track Tak
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As far as I know my car is stock my11 with Y pipe and K&N filters but I've had a stage 4 my09 previously and the way this my11 performs I sometimes wonder if its had some mods done so I'd like to get it dynoed just to see really, I've ran against svm 650s and Lichfield stage 4 cars and beat them which can't be rite if it's stock
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Hi, SRR are very good, had cars there quite a few times. Unfortunately i have heard that they are closing down at the end of March. Great shame.
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The MY11's do run well and with good yield when modded. If its had anything done it sounds to me no more than a stage1. Did you not ask the seller when you bought it?
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692 Posts
You can get the FWD Clutch overheat warning come up when on the dyno. Good operators will lift off as soon as they see this warning and no damage should occur. If I ran anymore than 1.5Bar of boost on the dyno then this would happen when I went. This happens on some GTRs but not on others weirdly.
SRR are being made to vacate their current premesis but Charlie mentioned on FB that he may have a way to carry on the business, fingers crossed!
SRR are being made to vacate their current premesis but Charlie mentioned on FB that he may have a way to carry on the business, fingers crossed!
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9,091 Posts
Guys, it depends on the dyno.
SRR uses dynodynamics rollers which are free rolling and independent. This allows them to be driven separately and therefore required the centre clutch (not really a diff) to transmit some torque.
The torque transmitted is a proportion of the torque available and so the more you have, the more torque has to go through it. That's why normal torque level cars don't see a problem but as you run more and more the problems start to appear.
Other dynos have driven rollers or coupled rollers. Superflow for example have a central drive shaft that forces the rollers to spin together, this removes the centre diff as an issue.
The cream of the crop dyno wise is the maha which uses electrically driven rollers to ensure that the axles spin at the same speed, the torque loading on the rollers from the drive motors is then electronically removed so has no impact on the accuracy of the reading.
AS stated above, all this is irrelevant to 99% of owners.
SRR uses dynodynamics rollers which are free rolling and independent. This allows them to be driven separately and therefore required the centre clutch (not really a diff) to transmit some torque.
The torque transmitted is a proportion of the torque available and so the more you have, the more torque has to go through it. That's why normal torque level cars don't see a problem but as you run more and more the problems start to appear.
Other dynos have driven rollers or coupled rollers. Superflow for example have a central drive shaft that forces the rollers to spin together, this removes the centre diff as an issue.
The cream of the crop dyno wise is the maha which uses electrically driven rollers to ensure that the axles spin at the same speed, the torque loading on the rollers from the drive motors is then electronically removed so has no impact on the accuracy of the reading.
AS stated above, all this is irrelevant to 99% of owners.
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6,599 Posts
Yeah we did manage to get hold of the previous owner who had it since new because we purchased it from a showroom and the owner said that nothing was done but I'mnot sure if hhe's just saying that because he was worried about the warranty as he mentioned it a few times, he had the car wrapped in matt black and Y pipe fitted, lowered fully dynomated so I feel he may have had a stage one type of map done because who ever seems it go or goes in it and own a gtr say this can't be standard ad to be honest I sometimes feel like that
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Good info Adam, thanks
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9,091 Posts
Remap is only going to be cobb or ecutek really, Isn't there a way you can plug an ecutek cable in and find out if it's been remapped without running it on a dyno?
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9,091 Posts
Ecutek's is a maha but it's not one of the special newer versions you really need.
If you really want the ultimate Maha set up the only one I know of belongs to a small company in Stuttgart called Porsche.
You are really worrying over nothing. Go to Surrey rolling road, you'll be fine. I ran mine there at 800bhp without a blip, believe me you'd know if you had THAT much more power than stock.
The easiest thing by far is to look at what your peak boost is, failing that stick an ecutek cable in there and send a log to any ecutek tuner, they'll know immediately if it's not running stock boost timing or fuelling.
If you really want the ultimate Maha set up the only one I know of belongs to a small company in Stuttgart called Porsche.
You are really worrying over nothing. Go to Surrey rolling road, you'll be fine. I ran mine there at 800bhp without a blip, believe me you'd know if you had THAT much more power than stock.
The easiest thing by far is to look at what your peak boost is, failing that stick an ecutek cable in there and send a log to any ecutek tuner, they'll know immediately if it's not running stock boost timing or fuelling.
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1,040 Posts
I would have thought it fairly obvious also if you were running much more power than stock???
I think this is just a case of the typical 'GTR Syndrome' that most suffer with! Your new car always will feel faster than your old car - especially if it is an 'upgraded' model!!!
WE ALL upgrade, or do a mod or 2 and then sit convincing ourselves that it was the best thing ever - where in reality it might not have had any impact what so ever!
Going by what you are saying, your car sounds like it could have had a Stage 1 tune? So a jump of approx 30-40 bhp??? Would that be enough of a difference for everyone to notice?
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3,721 Posts
Simple any more than 0.9bar..Tuned ! 
kk
kk
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5,891 Posts
what max bar do you put standard turbos upto? and what max bhp torque on stock rods/internals?Simple any more than 0.9bar..Tuned !
kk
thanks
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