GTR Forum banner

1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Afternoon gents I'm Joe and I'm in process of building a Datsun 240z and placing an RB25DET NEO in there. I'm not experienced with the RBs and there is a huge amount of conflicting information on various forums which I'm trying to get to the bottom of. I'm after advice on the following:

I'm unsure which ecu to choose from and I've never dealt with a standalone ecu before. I think I've narrowed it down to a Link g4 xtreme or Haltech Elite 2500 after countless hours trawling the Internet and YouTube. I'm leaning towards the haltech as there seems to be a lot more support and information online. The ecu needs to be able fully control the engine, run DBW, able to do flex fuel, launch control and potentially traction control. Would I have any issues with getting either of these mapped in the UK? Preferable North Yorkshire.

The engine I bought has little to no history so I'm want to freshen it up and paint it. How far do I go? Just check compression, new oil pump, water pump and change all gaskets and timing belts? Or should I be going the whole hog and putting in new piston rings, headgasket and bearings? Clearly this will involve a hone and skim the head and block.

The car only weights 1100kg roughly fully built so I don't really plan on having the engine produce more than 300-350hp which should be plenty. I'm looking to have a nice fast spooling and responsive engine.

In order to fit the engine in the car and make plumbing it in easier I'll be ditching the over the top intake manifold and going with a Plasmaman intake manifold and bosch 68mm DBW throttle body.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
197 Posts
My vote goes with a Link G4+.
Have had two now the first in my 34 gt-t (with neo engine) the second in my r.
In brief - after f***ing around with the factory exhaust the gt-t had a bunch of flat spots all through the rev range - things weren't smooth.
After moving to a PFC things were better but when i went to 260 cams and a front mount the Apexi ran out of steam.
Swapped to a G4+ GTT Link and never looked back. Still in touch with the owner of the GT-t and it's still running perfectly.

After the experience above I went straight to a G4+ for the gt-r and again, it's running flawlessly after being with me for about 6 years now.

Always listen to the bloke doing the tuning but for me the Link represents the best value for money before stepping up to the likes of Motec.

Also to note, the Link uses a map sensor, so you can get rid of the airflow meters (Rips NZ and HKS make AFM delete pipes) and you can
run a high low boost switch really easily with them too. The GTT link also works well with the NVCS (variable timing) and that's something
you'll want to leave in place as it REALLY fills in some of the down low torque curve in a way non-variable 26det's just can't do.

The only minor bug i found is that cold idle and start enrichment can take a while to fine tune but that's such a minor detail i've never
considered it an issue.

Good luck mate!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,265 Posts
Hey Joe, Its Rob that's on the zclub with the 280Z and RB25 Neo, likewise I think the Link G4+ because of variable valve timing. just need to pick the mapper now...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
197 Posts
Should say - if your tuner says "you should disable NVCS / Variable timing" find someone else.
It's the Neo's big drawcard and from experience, makes a big difference in low end torque.
;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
154 Posts
Link very easy to use and with the available PClink download offers accessible tuning
Do a proper rebuild as then you know you have a solid base otherwise you may have to go back in and waste more money!!
Won't take much to get 300 hp which should make a very lively drive
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top