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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
:D

After much working holidays and weekends and not spending time on my car (that I took off the road in February!!) I have finally got the engine out and in my garage on a stand ready to start stripping it down.

I'm just printing out the relevant pages from the manual, but any words of advice from the experts?

pictures to follow :)

Simon
 

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You have my mobile number Simon, call me anytime for advice.

I can't offer anymore than that fella. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
"hi is that the RB25 hotline..........?"
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
an absolute glut of pictures here

http://www.composite-design.co.uk/Overhaul/

very big pics :)

will sort rename and resize and do a write up at some point soon.

only got stopped today by the lack of a pulley puller :( and nowhere was open to buy one!

Simon
 

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Simon I'm sure we have a hydraulic puller at the farm (well we did last time I was in the workshop). If you want to borrow it let me know and i'll check it's there..
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the offer - but I went out and brought one today, then I went back a and brought one that was big enough to do the job :rolleyes:

anyway head off now and look what I found :)

















Simon
 

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Welcome to the "biggest photos ever to have been posted on an internet forum" exhibition :rolleyes: :clap:
 

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Just what I was thinking, I have never studied a freshly removed head in so much detail................
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
well I wouldn't want you to miss any of the detail :)

Simon
 

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What were the symptoms pre dissmantling, and what did you find?
The pics are so big they made my head hurt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
re-sized pictures uploading now :D

symptons were a little blue smoke occasionally, but the main reason for the upgrade was becasue I was unsure of what the state of the internals were and I wanted to run more boost.

HG was metal, but I have no idea if a standard one is metal, pistons look standard to me. I am suprised at how coked up it is, also there seems to be some det damage to the piston and the head primarily on cylinder one and four.

Simon
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
well the dismantling is all finished now :D

pistons look to be in good shape, no apparent damage to the ringlands and the bores all look fine I did a bit of a heath robinson measure on cylinder one with one of the rings by measuring the gap with a feeler guage at the bottom and top of the cylinder and they were both the same :)


it all needs cleaning up now and the ordering of parts to start - I just need some quotes to come back as everyone seems to be on holiday at the moment :mad: :rolleyes:

Simon
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
oh forgot to say - the conrod bearings don't look to bad, but you can certainly see some 'polishing' on the crank bearings, I'll get some pictures when I've cleaned them all up.

Simon
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
well dropped the head and the block off at the engineering place this morning, the head will be cleaned, checked and skimmed to remove the det damage. The bock will be cleaned, checked and have the bores measured for wear, tapering ovaling or any other problems.

Then I'll be ready to start ordering parts :D

all I need is some parts quotes to come back :mad:

Simon
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Andy Hornsby said:
Good luck with the rebuild Simon.:) Keep us updated.

I noticed from this pic:-

http://www.composite-design.co.uk/cgi-bin/i/Overhaul/DSCF0016.JPG

...............that you may have had some leakage from the manifold??

Andy.

I have previoulsy changed the studs and at the time I was in a hurry to get the car back on the road so didn't take the time to check the manual for the correct torque settings :eek:pps: !

more than one of the studs were finger tight when I took them off, but they had all been done up 'tightly' when I put them in. :eek:


Simon
 

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They back off on mine too Simon, but it only takes a second to nip them up again.

I don't think the head has been tapped to a very close tolerance at manufacture, or the loose studs from the OEM manifold cause some wear before they depart.

I tighten them up as part of my oil service, and I'd rather have a few loose studs than a cracked manifold so I don't worry too much about it. :D
 

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Though more often than not Andy, the cracking on the HKS GT manifold is attributed to the weight of the turbo charger hanging off the end of it.

Also, if you look closely at the gasket on Simon's photo, you'll notice that it's a multi-piece type, which allows the manifold flange to move a little anyhow.
 
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