GTR Forum banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
670 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I bought a Superflow SF-902 and I'm wondering if there is anyone on this board having some experience getting a skyline engine on this dyno. It's an engine dyno, not a chassis dyno. I build a lot of engines and it's easier to check and map them directly instead of first having to put it in the car and then find out it's leaking oil or something :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,803 Posts
I can't help in any way, but can I ask a favour? Any chance of running an RB26 on your engine dyno, and then running the same engine on a 4wd chassis dyno?

Obviosuly there's differences with different dynos etc., but it would be great to see what the GTR transmission losses actually are! :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,883 Posts
A few thing i can say.

Advantage:
Full control on intake temps.
Full control on wide open throttle.
Easy to try different fuel types.
Easier to listen for knock.

Disadvantage:
You dont get to test the components that are on the car, fueldelivery, radiator oilcoolers etc.
A bit more difficult to map offboost / vacuum part of the map.
Dont get to see if clutch is good enough.

Probably a few more tips on both, that i cant think of right now.

Asim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
670 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Asim,
that clutch part is not true. You can run the engine in two ways on the engine dyno, you can put the universal input shaft on the dyno and bolt a universal flywheel to your engine, or you can make an adapter on the dyno with the same splines as the input shaft of your transmission and run the clutch of the engine. In that way you can see if the clutch holds the power. Although some clutches need to be broken in (like the carbonetics and some exedy). So when you break in the engine on the dyno you should also do clutch engagements constantly to break in the clutch. I think that's pretty difficult but I haven't really thought about it real good yet :)
If your engine is already in the car, then you are either stupid to have it built in without testing it, or you have never removed it for real tuning. then you are bound to the chassis dyno with all it's problems (cooling the engine on a chassis dyno is always a problem).
My engine dyno can consume up to 20.000 liter of water per hour, to cool the waterbrake and to cool the engine!
I will tune my own RB26 on the engine dyno and later on will take it to a chassis dyno to see how much is left over. In the end it's about wheel horse power anyways!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,803 Posts
...I will tune my own RB26 on the engine dyno and later on will take it to a chassis dyno to see how much is left over. In the end it's about wheel horse power anyways!
Sweet :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
485 Posts
Arnout... Im very interested in hearing how you get on with your new tuning toy...:clap:

Something that may help...

I know that (Rayland) the people who built Renton @ Redline Mag's White R33GTR used an engine dyno to tune, & i have seen pictures of the RB26 on the engine dyno etc... As far as im aware it was done at specialistcarservices.com & they use a Superflow-901 Engine Dyno (1000BHP, 16000RPM) so it sounds like your in luck as im sure they could help you with some of your thoughts & questions...

Si...:thumbsup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
670 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
hey nice! Thank you for that link, interesting pictures. That engine dyno is the old model, the 901 model. I got the 902 which is a little bit more of today technology (although still slightly dated, software comes on 3.5 HD floppy's)
Do you guys know if that intercooler is the one always in use by the dyno or it comes with that engine (in that car). I like the idea of a water cooled intercooler for your dyno room, but on the other hand it might be a better idea to dyno the engine with the intercooler that is going with the engine in the car. Then you do need to simulate some road speed onto the intercooler though.
A downside on the superflow dyno is that you have to make all the adapters yourself. That bellhousing plate is some own cnc made unit and you have to weld the input shaft of a damaged transmission to the superflow waterbrake nose. Now damaged transmissions are never hard to find with nissans :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
485 Posts
Do you guys know if that intercooler is the one always in use by the dyno or it comes with that engine (in that car). I like the idea of a water cooled intercooler for your dyno room, but on the other hand it might be a better idea to dyno the engine with the intercooler that is going with the engine in the car. Then you do need to simulate some road speed onto the intercooler though.

The water cooled intercooler is not used on the car, It is the method used in the dyno room only & the car uses a normal air to air intercooler in road use...
Agreed it would be best to run the intercooler thats its going to use on the road but trying to simulate road speeds is going to be difficult factor...


A downside on the superflow dyno is that you have to make all the adapters yourself. That bellhousing plate is some own cnc made unit and you have to weld the input shaft of a damaged transmission to the superflow waterbrake nose. Now damaged transmissions are never hard to find with nissans :)[/QUOTE]

Yes the bellhousing adapter would seem to be a custom unit alrite, i read some were that Renton also supplyed them with a std GTR flywheel for the conversion, I assume for the input shaft to adapt to the water brake, rite..??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
670 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
hm so what about pros/cons of breaking in an engine on the engine dyno?
If you have built an engine to be broken in or mapped, an engine dyno is a lot better than first putting it in a car and then break it in.
In a dyno room you have a controlled environment, you can keep the engine always in operation temperature (no overheating, and cars DO overheat on chassis dynos).
And it saves you a lot of time to build in the engine and to find out it's leaking oil somewhere or it performs better with A/R 1.01 instead of A/R 0.96 for example. Also if you have to retorque certain bolts it can be a pain to do that in the car.
An engine dyno is the perfect unit if you have a built block and need to tune. It's a stupid item if the engine is already in the car or if you are doing cheap incremental upgrades on the car. Then you should go with a chassis dyno, but chassis dynos are a lot more expensive, more risk, more time, more investment and so on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,171 Posts
Hi Arnout! You could buy a few old RB25 auto bellhousings, which are a separate part to the gearbox itself, and have a nice symmetrical set of round holes to pick up to. That might ease the mount at the rear. Some welded box section should sort the side mounts.

As for intercooling you can either use a water bath I/C where the whole air to air is lowered and lifted from a bath of cold water, which is circulated to waste if enough thermal energy goes into it to raise the waters temperature too much, Down side is if the I/C fails its possible for the engine to inhale water and hydraulic. You can use an air to air witha big co-axial fan blowing through it, with baffles to adjust air flow, or a variable speed fan, or an air to water I/C with the cooling of the water to air part of the exchange done outside of the dyno cell, which un-clutters things.

Pics of the auto bellhousing (which I have used to mount my Tractive sequential dog box to my RB26) at IrfanView HTML-Thumbnails

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
485 Posts
Beat me to it Chris...

I was just thinking about you using the Auto Box Bell housing for the tractive Sequential Box conversion today, with Arnout & engines dynos in mind...:thumbsup:
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top