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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys this is my first skyline could i be so lucky to own a vspec II Nur edition.
But i have just gone and broken the poor car im really really depressed here we are talking of even going to see the phsyciatrist (SP) tomorrow lol.
Have you guys ever heard of a over rev in a skyline when you change down from 3rd to 2nd in a R34 skyline with a getrag six speed gear box did i just go and break my engine because of this ? i now have a engine with a bearing knock and low oil pressure on a cold start the pressure sits at 2.2Kpa.
If this is so for all skyline motors is there any way of preventing this from happening i hear that becuase of what i did it caused the revs to go to about 10000 Rpm because the engine is not rev limited on a change up to a higher gear and based on my speed this could have definitly happened is there any chance of putting a higher rated oil pump in place and bigger sump to cope with the need of higher oil flow and High RPM values ?
Please guys im asking all of you on the forum help me solve this huge mistery and huge misery too ? i need to try avoid this in the future and make sure that it doesnt happen again im very used to driving my evo in this manner and i think this is what has taught me a very bad driving habit to try maintain torque around a bend ? please help guys im appealling to ALL OF YOU tuners included alike ?
very desperate for advise on a rebuild and what i should use first of we have
ACL race bearing set ?
Tomei or ARP conrod bolts for the bearings and block as well ?
What else should i do to run 500 Bhp safely with hard driving im a hard driver.
Thanks guys cheers
 

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If you mess-up a downshift there is no way of limiting the engine revs, if you want to downshift to 10000rpm, then you need an engine capable of 10000rpm!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Any one else Guys Help

I have noticed very few replies getting the feeling im looking back on stuff that might have already been touched on or spoken about please let me know guys your advice would be a great help im from africa ?
 

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What is the car doing now - i.e. does it not run, is it knackered etc.

If you only touched on the 10k rpm mark there is still a chance you will get away without doing any damage. Many engines are designed to survive what is known in the AE industry as the "idiot shift" i.e. 4th to 3rd instead of 5th etc for a brief run around the dial so you may have got lucky.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The engine has a knock now

Confirming that after the minor incident the engine now has a knock, on idle she sounds great rev the car slightly and you hear it no smoke, but very low oil pressures sitting at 2.3Kpa and hence the reason i think i have run a bearing how nice ?
I thinking of getting a baffle plate because im pretty certain she ran dry for a second or two, there is a some models of baffle plate available not sure which one to get but the Trust seems the best.
There is also a Nismo baffle plate not sure wether to get it or not.

Thanks cheers
 

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Sounds like a conrodbearing,but never heard of problems like that on a Nürspec engine. Had it myself after hitting the revlimiter in my 34GTR,but that was the normal engine with the "small" oilpump.

You need to pull the engine out,dont let the engine run anymore from now,maybe you can regrind the crankshaft.
 

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Spun a bottom end bearing by the sounds of it ,without of couse seeing the car no one can say for sure .Is it a ticking type rattle that happens on very low revs that disapears under load and sounds abit like exhaust heat shield rattle slightly or like loose injector or tappet ? Not uncommen on the GTR ,it is a weak point for wear .
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Symptoms

Well when the engine idles it sounds great and everything is just heaven then rev a little and the dread knock comes about its def a bearing im not sure it the oil pump is stuffed but will have to check the oil pressure is low and there is no smoke nor misfire so the car is running fine accepting for the knock.
I hope this can be sorted im thinking of putting a over size sump and a high flow oil pump like a Tomei or a jun ?
What do you guys think.
 

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`the car is running fine accepting for the knock.` If that is a spun bearing, your engine will destroy itself in a short space of time. Pull it and strip it or at least get someone who knows the engine to have a listen.
 

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Agreed,

If you are still driving it with the knock you can say goodbye to any chance of the crank being ok... :(

I think just learning to use the gearbox better is your only hope, the increased load from 10k+ is why it is knocking. The oil probably broke down under the load and bearing touched hence th rattle and low pressure now.

If its any concellation at all, my new engine revs to 10k.... 3 times i have miss shifted my dog box at 9500 in 3rd and hit 2nd.. i reckon it must of touched 15k :eek:
I have also gotta get used to this box! :D

Tomei oil pump is the savour! (ihope :D )

Rob
 

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Similar thing happened on track the other day shifting from 3rd to 2nd to keep the revs up through two tight left-handers. Nur engine. I remember I was revving high, but I wasn't looking at the rev counter. The car seemed to lose power as I floored it and sounded strangled. May have run dry for a second as it was towards the end of the race and the fuel was getting low but whatever the reason I slowed right down, put on the flashers and pulled into the pits immediately. Sounds OK now, but still have my fingers crossed.:eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Heard you mention the tomei pump will it save a over

I heard you mention a tomei pump will it save against an over rev can it prevent the car from running a bearing please let me know because if this is the case ill get one soon ?
Im a hard driver seldomly monitor the revs and this could happen to me again i dont want another bottom end rebuild thats the last thing i need honestly.
So does a tomei oil pump prevent a over rev shooting the bearings ?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
After engine rebuild and 3000kms Rod through block

Hi guys :( you will not believe this but yesterday after a nice warm car had no knock no problems took off from a robot driving steady acceleration changed from Second to third and carried on going next thing bang and my engine died with bits flying out the back i dropped conrod no 4 .............. Really really bad this is after a engine rebuild and this was done 3000 kms ago im pretty upset and least to say need another N1 engine complete block and head with crank ?
Any ideas why this happend from what i can see it broke a Big end stud on the conrod it literally sheared of the top hat and pushed through the conrod into the Big end cap and is sticking out with the nut attached ?
Really confused as to why this happened ive never over reved it again since the build Ps i was supposed to have tomei stud bolts fitted to big end conrod any ideas what these look like guys ?? what do the original ones look like Nissan OEm stud bolts, not sure but i think im safe to blame the mech who rebuilt the engine ?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Any guys out there with pics of rod bolts

I am looking for pics of nissan Oem original Conrod bolts and pics of Tomei and arp bolts also please could some one help??
 
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