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Discussion Starter #1
Hi I am going to be taking them engine out of my gtr soon and thought I might as well upgrade some parts on it and rebuild it :D

The engine spec now is:

R34 N1 block
N1 water pump
N1 oil pump
HKS air filters
HKS cams (unknown duration)
Apexi power FC (L jetro) with boost controller
up rated fuel pump unknown make and model
and everything else is standard

I’ve made a list of parts I am thinking of getting but need some advice on something’s

Thinking of getting and something’s I am not sure about

HKS gt2530 turbo’s
Tomei turbo elbows
Tomei manifolds
Amuse R1 titan exhaust
Hks fuel rail
not sure what injectors to get?
greddy intake pipes and air filters
don't know what intercooler to get?
don't know what head gasket to get?
don't know if I should change the pistons or the con rods
Keeping the n1 water pump
koyo rad
N1 oil pump (not sure if I should up rate it)
greddy oil cooler and oil filter relocation
port and polish the head (is there a point?)
ati crank damper
spitfire coils
dont know what spark plugs to get
dont know if the fuel pump needs up rating
apexi power fc (should I keep this or go for a hks fcon?)

That’s all I can think of if there is anything else I should get or I might of missed out then please let me know


thanks :thumbsup:
 

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jsut a noob mate, but here goes

700cc injectors - light blue like mine lol
go for wossner pistons maybe
stock rods ok probly
cometic headgasket mls?
id go f-con rather than powerfc cos u wont need to buy afms x2
yeah port n polish head deffo

n1 real one! oilpump probly ok but gotta watch the revs...if u got the moolah,go tomei oilpump but u gotta fit oil restrictors and wat not...maybe while engin out its best to go the whole hog...tomei, extended sump, oil restrictors on the turbo etc..
 

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First of all how much power do you want your engine to produce, is it going to be a road car, track car, drag car.
 

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from experience, i would go with Gt2860-5 turbos instead of the HKS ones. cause if you ya blow the HKS ones... £££££`s to fix. GT a lot cheaper and virtually the same results in terms of power. just my 2p worth.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
jsut a noob mate, but here goes

700cc injectors - light blue like mine lol
go for wossner pistons maybe
stock rods ok probly
cometic headgasket mls?
id go f-con rather than powerfc cos u wont need to buy afms x2
yeah port n polish head deffo

n1 real one! Oil pump probably ok but gotta watch the revs...if u got the moolah,go tomei oilpump but u gotta fit oil restrictors and wat not...maybe while engin out its best to go the whole hog...tomei, extended sump, oil restrictors on the turbo etc..
lol yes a real n1 :clap: I was looking into getting the tomei oil pump buts it’s like £800+ :( was thinking of getting the trust sump extension too


First of all how much power do you want your engine to produce, is it going to be a road car, track car, drag car.
hmmm good point I am looking for a Fast road/track car around 500-600hp Is what I am aiming for

from experience, i would go with Gt2860-5 turbos instead of the HKS ones. cause if you ya blow the HKS ones... £££££`s to fix. GT a lot cheaper and virtually the same results in terms of power. just my 2p worth.
really I didn’t know that thanks for the info mate :thumbsup:


For 500-600hp would I need to up rate the internals or can the stock internal handle that power?

The whole short block is new and all N1 only done 13,000kms (are the N1 internals up rated or are they the same as stock?)

Thanks :thumbsup:
 

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As far as i know about the N1 ( i guess you have a R34 Nür engine ) as the true N1 are not that commen.....

First of all, it is a MUST to get sump extension!!!!!! Even stock engines, get it.

Conrod bolts needs to be replaced, as they are the weakest on the Nür engine.

Pistons i would put in CP pistons, no need to be greedy about where you spend the money.

Oil pump go for Jun,Trust.

Oilcooler build your own, keep away from the greddy etc....get a Setrab 25 row oil cooler then get the lose Grex oil plates ( 1,engine plate...2,relocation plate with 4 connections so you can put you oil coller in)
Get the tubes and fittings on the internet or if you know a workshop that has that.

Fuelpump get 2 Bosch 044 plus a swirl pot. keep the intank pump you have.

Headgasket get a HKS,Tomei 1.2mm

Injectors 700cc sard, should be ok.

Clutch get a OS Giken twin plate or Tripple really nice to drive on the road and on the track.
 

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im doing the same thing at the moment! im sticking with standard internals and only replacing the rod bolts with arp ones, polished piston crowns, block honed and re-faced, crank balanced with crank collar put on, with hks twin plate clutch and flywheel and harmonic balencer at same time, (32 block and crank) n1 oil pump and water pump, rear crank seal replaced, as for the head, skimmed, port and polished with hks gaskets,1.2mm head gasket,bronze valve guides as one of mine cracked, chambers highly polished, greddy camshafts(cant remember what duration), standard valves and springs,new valve seals, valves lapped by machine, arp head bolts, hks adj cam pulleys,hks cambelt, new hose kit, just putting it all together at the moment, going to do the turbo side next! i need more money!
 

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For the power you want the standard internals are O.K. but they will be at their max, anything over 500-550 bhp I personally would go for forged internals. I would go with what iceager has said, I myself have the CP pistons in my RB30. Responsiveness is what you want from your engine for a street/track car. 2860-5's is a good choice, I think they're equivalent to the 2530's. Metal gaskets all round. Turbo elbows with better flow (Tomei). If your going for a complete rebuild, you may be better off buying a rebuilt engine maybe an RB30 from on the forum from someone who's lost interest in their project, there was a few engines up for sale a few months ago. I dont know if Conrad managed to sell his RIPs RB30, but I would most certainly look in to it. If you tot up the costs you will incur rebuilding your own engine, for the same amount or there-a-bouts you could buy an engine already done, ready to install in your car.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
As far as i know about the N1 ( i guess you have a R34 Nür engine ) as the true N1 are not that commen.....

First of all, it is a MUST to get sump extension!!!!!! Even stock engines, get it.

Conrod bolts needs to be replaced, as they are the weakest on the Nür engine.

Pistons i would put in CP pistons, no need to be greedy about where you spend the money.

Oil pump go for Jun,Trust.

Oilcooler build your own, keep away from the greddy etc....get a Setrab 25 row oil cooler then get the lose Grex oil plates ( 1,engine plate...2,relocation plate with 4 connections so you can put you oil coller in)
Get the tubes and fittings on the internet or if you know a workshop that has that.

Fuelpump get 2 Bosch 044 plus a swirl pot. keep the intank pump you have.

Headgasket get a HKS,Tomei 1.2mm

Injectors 700cc sard, should be ok.

Clutch get a OS Giken twin plate or Tripple really nice to drive on the road and on the track.
Yeah it’s a r34 Nur engine

Why what’s wrong with the greddy oil coolers?

For the power you want the standard internals are O.K. but they will be at their max, anything over 500-550 bhp I personally would go for forged internals. I would go with what iceager has said, I myself have the CP pistons in my RB30. Responsiveness is what you want from your engine for a street/track car. 2860-5's is a good choice, I think they're equivalent to the 2530's. Metal gaskets all round. Turbo elbows with better flow (Tomei). If your going for a complete rebuild, you may be better off buying a rebuilt engine maybe an RB30 from on the forum from someone who's lost interest in their project, there was a few engines up for sale a few months ago. I dont know if Conrad managed to sell his RIPs RB30, but I would most certainly look in to it. If you tot up the costs you will incur rebuilding your own engine, for the same amount or there-a-bouts you could buy an engine already done, ready to install in your car.
Yeah was thinking about buying a ready build engine but there not any for sale at the moment I think conrad has sold the rips engine that would have been really nice :D

Well this is the list of parts so far

HKS gt2530 turbo’s or Gt2860-5
Tomei turbo elbows
Tomei manifolds
Amuse R1 titan exhaust
hks 256 cams
hks or tomei cam gears
Hks fuel rail
uprated fuel pressure reg (Can anyone recommend one?)
700cc injectors
Greddy intake pipes and air filters
Trust 3 layer intercooler
Tomei 1.2mm head gasket
Don't know if I should change the pistons or the con rods – still not sure if I am going to change them
Keeping the n1 water pump
Koyo radiator
N1 oil pump (not sure if I should up rate it) – still not sure depends if I can get some extra cash for it
Greddy oil cooler and oil filter relocation or make my own one
Tomei oil orifice
Trust sump extension
Arp conrod bolts
Arp Cylinder Head stud kit
Port and polish the head
Ati crank damper
Spitfire coils
Don’t know what spark plugs to get
Up rated in tank fuel pump with twin bosch 044 pumps and a swirl pot (would it be ok with the intank fuel pump for now?)
HKS fcon v-pro ecu
Has a up rated clutch maybe a twin plate not sure what make it is yet until I get the engine out
 

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Will you be getting rid of the squish pads on your head or will you be leaving them on ? Mine have been removed. The OSG tripple is an excellent clutch. I have the Nismo racing plugs , expensive at around £150 for a set of 6.
 

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HKS gt2530 turbo’s or Gt2860-5
Tomei turbo elbows
Tomei manifolds -no need
Amuse R1 titan exhaust
hks cams
hks or tomei cam gears
Hks fuel rail - no need
uprated fuel pressure reg (Can anyone recommend one?) - no need
700cc injectors
Greddy intake pipes and air filters
Trust 3 layer intercooler
Tomei 1.2mm head gasket -1.8mm will let you run more boost ie no det

Don't know if I should change the pistons or the con rods – still not sure if I am going to change them - stock are fine,uprate rod bolts
Keeping the n1 water pump
Koyo radiator
N1 oil pump (not sure if I should up rate it) – still not sure depends if I can get some extra cash for it -n1 is fine @ stock rpm limit
Greddy oil cooler and oil filter relocation or make my own one
Tomei oil orifice
Trust sump extension
Arp conrod bolts
Arp Cylinder Head stud kit - no need
Port and polish the head - no need
Ati crank damper - no need
Spitfire coils
Don’t know what spark plugs to get
Up rated in tank fuel pump with twin bosch 044 pumps and a swirl pot (would it be ok with the intank fuel pump for now?) - you need twin pumps
HKS fcon v-pro ecu
Has a up rated clutch maybe a twin plate not sure what make it is yet until I get the engine out

leave the squish pads,ran a similar spec in my r34 gtr made [email protected] had more to come but was maxing out the intank pump,never had a chance to fit my uprated fuel system as i sold the car:bawling:

spec of the engine

splitfire coilpacks
greedy sparkplugs
mines rocker baffels
hks step 1 cams
tomie 1.8mm head gasket
tomie oil restrictor
tomie rod bolts
n1 water pump
n1 oil pump
uprated 7lt big winged baffeled alloy sump
hks gt2530 turbines
hks turbo elbows
hks cam gears
hks cam belt
rc 800cc injectors
greedy light weight pulleys
middlehurst oil seperator
apexi power fc
apexi boost controler
koyo radiator
nismo radiator cap
hks drag intercooler
hks full hard pipe kit
hks rs hard pipe induction kit
nismo oil cooler
hks titanium 4" drag exhaust
ava downpipe

dyno graph
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Will you be getting rid of the squish pads on your head or will you be leaving them on ? Mine have been removed. The OSG tripple is an excellent clutch. I have the Nismo racing plugs , expensive at around £150 for a set of 6.
Probably going to be leaving the squish pads for now

150 for plugs!!

HKS gt2530 turbo’s or Gt2860-5
Tomei turbo elbows
Tomei manifolds -no need
Amuse R1 titan exhaust
hks cams
hks or tomei cam gears
Hks fuel rail - no need
uprated fuel pressure reg (Can anyone recommend one?) - no need
700cc injectors
Greddy intake pipes and air filters
Trust 3 layer intercooler
Tomei 1.2mm head gasket -1.8mm will let you run more boost ie no det

Don't know if I should change the pistons or the con rods – still not sure if I am going to change them - stock are fine,uprate rod bolts
Keeping the n1 water pump
Koyo radiator
N1 oil pump (not sure if I should up rate it) – still not sure depends if I can get some extra cash for it -n1 is fine @ stock rpm limit
Greddy oil cooler and oil filter relocation or make my own one
Tomei oil orifice
Trust sump extension
Arp conrod bolts
Arp Cylinder Head stud kit - no need
Port and polish the head - no need
Ati crank damper - no need
Spitfire coils
Don’t know what spark plugs to get
Up rated in tank fuel pump with twin bosch 044 pumps and a swirl pot (would it be ok with the intank fuel pump for now?) - you need twin pumps
HKS fcon v-pro ecu
Has a up rated clutch maybe a twin plate not sure what make it is yet until I get the engine out

leave the squish pads,ran a similar spec in my r34 gtr made [email protected] had more to come but was maxing out the intank pump,never had a chance to fit my uprated fuel system as i sold the car:bawling:

spec of the engine

splitfire coilpacks
greedy sparkplugs
mines rocker baffels
hks step 1 cams
tomie 1.8mm head gasket
tomie oil restrictor
tomie rod bolts
n1 water pump
n1 oil pump
uprated 7lt big winged baffeled alloy sump
hks gt2530 turbines
hks turbo elbows
hks cam gears
hks cam belt
rc 800cc injectors
greedy light weight pulleys
middlehurst oil seperator
apexi power fc
apexi boost controler
koyo radiator
nismo radiator cap
hks drag intercooler
hks full hard pipe kit
hks rs hard pipe induction kit
nismo oil cooler
hks titanium 4" drag exhaust
ava downpipe

dyno graph
Thats a nice setup I would be happy with somthing like that :D

so I dont have to go too OTT with the internals ?
 

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Yeah it’s a r34 Nur engine

Why what’s wrong with the greddy oil coolers?
Well the greddy cooler kit is expensive and you only get a 13 row oilcooler and the yen to gbp are crap, if you buy local/EU you can save alot of money.

I saved 100£ building my own with a 25 row cooler compared to a greddy kit with 13 row.
The 100£ you save here you can use on the more critical items as pistons etc :)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well the greddy cooler kit is expensive and you only get a 13 row oilcooler and the yen to gbp are crap, if you buy local/EU you can save alot of money.

I saved 100£ building my own with a 25 row cooler compared to a greddy kit with 13 row.
The 100£ you save here you can use on the more critical items as pistons etc :)
Yeah I get your point just had a look on rhd and its like £762.56!!! :chairshot
 
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