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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

Recently dropped my gearbox to swap my twin plate clutch for a triple and found that there's a flywheel bolt which is snapped unfortunately. It's snapped below the face of the crank. So far have drilled a few holes in the bolt and got a easy out solidly in there. The bolt is so tight though that we've snapped 2 dies when trying to loosen it. A 10mm socket is too small and an 11mm socket is too big (square end to the easy out).

Not sure what else I can do to get more leverage on the easy out or alternatively any other ideas of how to get it out :)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Little worried about using heat with the oil seal being right next to it. Could try a heat gun though.... Another suggestion I've had was to put the extractor on a reverse drill and try and get it out that way, any idea if that's worth persuing?
 

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You can always remove the oil seal?
 

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use a welder with chromium rods , never fails if you know how to do it ,alot of the time you do more damage with a drill especially if it runs of centre ,
 

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If you used the old tapered left hand thread style of "Easy-Out" instead of a stud extractor I think your best option is the MIG.
This is presuming you haven't drilled crooked and gone into the crank with the easy outs.
MIG on a decent thickness washer to the remains of the stud. You can MIG down the centre of the washer with a series of spots.
Add water if things are getting too hot.
Then MIG a large nut onto the washer.
The welding heat will kill any residual Loctite and the large nut will allow use of a socket and breaker bar.
Once the broken stud is out, bin all the rest of the studs as well as the Easy Outs.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Not tried heat yet but yes fair point can just replace the oil seal if do that :) Might be worth a try :)

Not a clue on welding unfortunately, had read about building up the broken bolt with weld to then weld a nut but would need to find a welder to do it for me and the cars stuck on the driveway now.

It's a stud extractor just cant get the leverage. Needed to use a breaker bar on the other bolts - think this is my fault for getting the wrong torque figures for the flywheel bolts last time.

Pic of the current situ - It's slightly off centre and looks awfully close to the crank but from what I recall when under there it was all on the bolt still (just admittedly);

 

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Try an imperial spanner and then use the ring end of another much larger spanner to get more leverage, by placing it over the end of the spanner.

And wear Goggle's!
 

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Mate I thought you'd snapped off your easy-out so there's still hope.
First off remove that useless thing and check you didn't drill into the crank.
Then buy the correct stud removing tool, similar to the one in the photo I use for broken manifold studs.
Easy-outs (being tapered) tend to force the broken stud harder into the threads.
The stud removing tool is parallel and once the sliding adaptor is hard down against the broken stud, the chance of twisting off the tool is greatly reduced.

 

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Here's a DIY I wrote up a long time back and it shows how to use this style of tool.
They're available in varying diameters and can be bought singly or as a kit with about 4-popular sizes.
As the tool's adaptor nut slides hard up to the job, the applied torque all goes to the broken stud and not just twisting the tool as in an Easy-Out.
They're top quality steel and once driven in you really don't want to snap one off in the stud.
I have snapped one but it was my own fault, didn't drill squarely (last stud close to the firewall) and I bit into the head slightly.
So next option was the MIG+washer+nut and that always works.

Exhaust Manifold Studs - Tutorials / DIY / FAQ - Skylines Australia
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ok so could try and use a second spanner to give the leverage - though the tool you pointed out geoffree looks interesting, presumably it's got a twist to it? Where would I go to get something like that? Had a quick search and not turned up much. Before putting the easy out in I drilled the hole out to 8mm so presumably would be a version of that tool suited to the 8mm hole?

Thanks,
Alex
 

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shame you drilled down the center of the bolt on the piss
from what you have done so far i would use a 6mm stem carbide cutter
and very very carefully grind the remainder of the bolt stopping just short of running into the threads
when you get to that stage you can peel the coil of bolt thread out of the crank thread

the stud removing tool is great on un messed with clean break studs
once you have butchered the stud they tend not to work as well
good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Hole isn't on the piss luckily it's just been drilled off-centre unfortunately.

Carbide cutter looks rather intimidating from an amateur user perspective heh, would imagine risking a lot if I catch the threads also? May try the stud removal tool and then failing that try to find a mobile specialist somewhere to come and take a look.

I'll have a google for the tool but if I can't find one then can always look at Aus as well as i'm off to Melbourne soon and already have a few parts delivered there :)
 
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