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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The weather was against me, but I managed to get my Laser Interceptor quad head system installed completely today.

All heads were mounted with No-Nails Exterior adhesive tape and as confirmed by many tests, the receiver bubbles placed on the outside.

The front wiring was run thru a small grommet on the driver's side, in the Brake fluid compartment. It is easy to find and use and pop's into the driver's footwell just above and to the right of the accelerator.

The rear wiring was run up into the bumper thru the number plate light retaining holes and passed up and over the boot lip under the rubber seal. These wires were then run under the boot carpet, thru a hole in the rear bulkhead which passed the wires under the rear seat behind the driver. This seat is easily removed with one clip. The wires were then run under the internal door sill trim and to the fuse box area by the driver's right foot.

The control box was velcroed to the metalwork above the fusebox and the switch mounted next to the boot release.

I added another LED to the LI's control wiring and mounted this in view central to the speedo.

I used an external speaker as I do like having the tunes loud(!) and this was mounted up and left of the footrest in the driver's footwell.

Install took me a few hours over a few days but now I know where to run everything I could probably knock it off in under 3 hours now.

Front heads mounted snug under lip of bonnet




Rear heads





Kill switch mounted in accessible place



Centrally mounted LED (added by me, not supplied by LI)



Once the weather gets a little better I'll shoot some video of this system in action....

As ever, any questions, just ask!
 

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Very impressive - super-neat switch and LED install. Look forward to hearing how it works in practice :)
 

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The rear wiring was run up into the bumper thru the number plate light retaining holes and passed up and over the boot lip under the rubber seal. These wires were then run under the boot carpet, thru a hole in the rear bulkhead which passed the wires under the rear seat behind the driver. This seat is easily removed with one clip. The wires were then run under the internal door sill trim and to the fuse box area by the driver's right foot.
Andy

How easy was the process you describe above - is it pretty straightforward to remove and replace the various bits of trim? Do you need any special tools? I'm considering the camera job (which will need similar cabling) but am a novice at removing & replacing trim... and a little nervous about butchering my brand new motor when it arrives. Any advice?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Andy

How easy was the process you describe above - is it pretty straightforward to remove and replace the various bits of trim? Do you need any special tools? I'm considering the camera job (which will need similar cabling) but am a novice at removing & replacing trim... and a little nervous about butchering my brand new motor when it arrives. Any advice?
The rear camera should be relatively straight forward to install, it's just the MFD removal that may be a touch more difficult.

That said, the GTR is a breeze to work on compared with other cars I've had.

Here's a little run thru for the rear.

1. Remove the inner boot cover as per my thread on Zele 4 light kit.

2. Look under the bumper at the number plate lights. They are easy peasy to remove by pushing the white lamp unit left or right and pulling down (held in by simple clips)

3. You now have a hole in the right place in the bumper and need to run the camera cabling from here to the boot.

4. Get one of these from eBay which makes pulling wires thru a breeze

Pick up tools, 2, flexible grabber & magnet, long reach on eBay, also, Hand Tools, Garage Equipment Tools, Cars, Parts Vehicles (end time 01-Jul-09 14:48:39 BST)


5. There is a large black rubber grommet on the RHS which is for accessing one of the rear lamp bulbs. Pull this out and use your grip toll to pass a piece of string to the licence plate lamp hole.

6. You can now pull the camera wiring thru into the boot. Cut the grommet with a knife and pass the wire thru.

To run these wires to the dash...

1. The boot trim inside the boot can be easily unclipped just like the rear plastic part. Remove the RHS pieces and pull back carefully the trim behind the rear seats.

2. Look behind this trim towards the rear seat behind the driver. There is a large hole in the bulkhead.

3. Remove the rear seat bottom piece by pulling the clip under the seat cushion.

4. Pass your wires thru the bulkhead hole with the gripper tool and you'll find them in the cabin, under the now removed seat.

5. At this point you've 2 options.

a. Pass wires down central console
b. Pass wires down trim below door to right of driver

Plan b is easier as it requires less trim removal, each piece just lifts up in turn.


To help lifting trim in a non-destructive way I use these..

CAR INTERIOR DASH DOOR TRIM PANEL REMOVAL PRY TOOL KIT on eBay, also, Hand Tools, Garage Equipment Tools, Cars, Parts Vehicles (end time 30-Jun-09 16:25:09 BST)



If I get a chance tonight I'll post some pics of the trim removal etc.

:thumbsup:
 

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Wow - awesome response. Many thanks - this gives me a lot of confidence... I will be having a chat with the GTR tech at Marshall's when I pick mine up, and will then make a decision about whether to attempt an install of the Murano camera or the self-build kit that you used.

Many thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If the Murano kit is any good (ie with the colour grid superimposed) I may swap mine over.
 

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If the Murano kit is any good (ie with the colour grid superimposed) I may swap mine over.
I'm guessing that to get the full OEM behaviour (e.g. colour grids) then the wiring will be quite different i.e. I won't be able to use the PVCI-NIS1 unit that you have (as far as I know that only handles the video signal, not anything else, and I'm guessing that the clever stuff is done by the camera control unit which then relays a signal to the MFD?). If I'm right then using these OEM parts will prevent the installation of a front camera, so I will have to make a decision about which route to follow... I'm hoping the GTR tech can throw some light on the subject (perhaps it's possible to route the camera control unit feed through a PVCI-NIS1?).

I'll let you know if/when I attempt it!
 

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If the Murano kit is any good (ie with the colour grid superimposed) I may swap mine over.
Might be worth a look at this thread CC... it suggests that the camera itself is irrelevant, and the part you need for a proper 'OEM' style rear cam (with guides) is the camera control unit, which can be bought from the courtesy parts site...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
David. I would have thought you'd be a little sharper than that! It has other uses which far outway it's below average parking ability.......


@Guy

If this box of trick has composite in and out then it may be possible to use. My only reservation is whether

1. Will patching into the steering sensor wiring throw any error codes on the AWD system?

2. Are all steering sensors providing the same signal i.e. the voltages may be different or the pulse length etc.


The only way to know will be to have a go and see. At this rate I'll be spending all summer with my head under the dash!
 

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David. I would have thought you'd be a little sharper than that! It has other uses which far outway it's below average parking ability.......


@Guy

If this box of trick has composite in and out then it may be possible to use. My only reservation is whether

1. Will patching into the steering sensor wiring throw any error codes on the AWD system?

2. Are all steering sensors providing the same signal i.e. the voltages may be different or the pulse length etc.


The only way to know will be to have a go and see. At this rate I'll be spending all summer with my head under the dash!
I'm well aware of its "other" uses. I had a Laser Echo fitted to my R33 back in 1997!

I just wanted to know if it actually worked as a parking sensor. Never heard of laser being used for that purpose before.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
right i want one

please fit it for me
More than happy to mate. Just get an auto electrician to add a switched 12v and ground by the fusebox in the drivers footwell.

Then get up to Liverpool and I'll help you fit it.

Happy days!
 

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More than happy to mate. Just get an auto electrician to add a switched 12v and ground by the fusebox in the drivers footwell.

Then get up to Liverpool and I'll help you fit it.

What was the Total cost to fit ?
Really fancy the Stinger Dsi just for the added distance warning
Would it be similar to fit as the system you have added?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
What was the Total cost to fit ?
Really fancy the Stinger Dsi just for the added distance warning
Would it be similar to fit as the system you have added?
All my own work so nothing!

I've never seen the Stinger system in the flesh but I cant imagine it would be that much harder.

Personally, the radar element of the stinger is a little pointless in the UK as radar is used very, very little.

Just get a GPS based camera detector instead. Cheaper and more flexible.

My advice with regards any jammer is do your homework and be very careful to instruct the fitters precisely.
Most of them have no idea what they are doing. I've seen all sorts of silly positioning e.g. behind grills, too low, too high etc.

If anyone is thinking of getting any jammer, let me know and I'll give you as much help as I can to get the best out of whichever system you choose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Just bring plenty of beer tokens......
 

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All my own work so nothing!

I've never seen the Stinger system in the flesh but I cant imagine it would be that much harder.

Personally, the radar element of the stinger is a little pointless in the UK as radar is used very, very little.

Just get a GPS based camera detector instead. Cheaper and more flexible.

My advice with regards any jammer is do your homework and be very careful to instruct the fitters precisely.
Most of them have no idea what they are doing. I've seen all sorts of silly positioning e.g. behind grills, too low, too high etc.

If anyone is thinking of getting any jammer, let me know and I'll give you as much help as I can to get the best out of whichever system you choose.
Hi Charlie,

I have just got a Laser Pro Park system..please tell me thats its a good one.
I was going to fit behind grill until I read your post.
Can I pick up a permanent live at the fuse box next to battery?
Your advice would be appreciated.:thumbsup:
 
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