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Discussion Starter #1
i recently had my r33 gt-r v spec lowered with trust dow max lowering springs..
the problem is the left front shock did not like it and it was wearing . so i change it leaving the back one ,because they were in good nick.
anyway the problem is i feel the car does not handle as good as the orignal springs ,by lowring it i feel the car sort off slide a bit when it goes over bumps and pot holes....
can anyone tell me what is the problem? or is it just normal?

lots off thanks :(
 

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There is always a compromise when sorting suspension for cars.

on the road a race car bounces about all over the place but on the circuit the tightness of the handling will improve cornering and hold the tyres flatter on the road. hence more grip, more energy being converted to tractive effort as there is less give in the suspension.

if you use road springs on the track the car will roll more and tend to slide easier.

you already know this though..

the cars handling on the road will be more skittish because of the great value for money we get for our road tax. if the roads were smooth we'd be ok.

you must decide which way you want to go. A lot of the guys on this and other forums actually took their v-spec shocks off and put on softer ones. I went the other way the HKS springs I fitted to mine (thanks IaN1 !!) lowered the car by a lot and made the ride quite alarming at times but I like to feel the road underneath me.

hth

Steve
 

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On my GTS I`ve got a TEIN setup and its really hard and bounces the car all over the place. Its excellent when I rarely find a nice stretch of tarmac, If only we had roads like in Japan where the cars were designed to be driven! Nice flat trarmac everywhere!
 

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Shock Handling after lowering!

Did you get 4-Wheel re-alignment done???

I bet you didn't did you!

I remember when I lowered an old car of mine, it put out the handling completely with the wheels pointing in all the wrong (positive!) camber angles! It drove like a bag of shit... until I got the angles reset and dialled in a bit more negative camber!

Just for the record, a mechanic once told me that if you change anything assocated with the suspension (yes, even a bush, shock, wheel or spring!!) yes even a wheel (and especially the springs!!!) you need to get the wheels FULLY 4-WHEEL re-aligned.

If your down south near London try Elite Tyres in Essex, they did mine on a digital setup when I changed my 18's and it will make a HUGE DIFFERENCE!

Remember to get your suspension angles checked every 6 months or 10,000 miles to ensure your handling isn't poor simply bacause of a bad setup! Even bouncing up kerbs with your wheels (my ex girlfriends favourite passtime) can put your angles badly out!


Trev
 

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Thanks mate i`ll have a look to see if anyone around here can do it.

Looking at my front tyres they`re wearing more on the outside than the inside, camber must be out!

Steve
 

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I also have the TEIN setup. Although hard ride at low speeds, this does smooth out on the m/way.

Very good on a smooth stretch. Good ride height although the front could be a little lower.

Well you can't have everything...
 

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Skyline Newbie

Steve, get the tracking checked out as my front tyres were wearing on the outside - it was 3 degrees toe-out when it should be [I believe] parallel. Am having trust dowmax springs fitted to mine at the moment and have asked for all the angles to be checked so will put in some feedback when I get it back from Gary's.

Rgds Ian W
 

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If your tyres are wearing on the outside edge and not the inside you've got too much positive camber set.

This will make the handling and performance worse since you'll be scrubbing away power and grip will be very poor around corners. Its better to have some negative camber set so that when you go around corners the wheels are still pointing straight.

If no camber was set at all the grip would be terrible around corners... basically its better to have negative (its incouraged, but not too much so you don't wear all your tyres away too fast). Racers and track day guys tend to dial in some more negative camber so they get better grip...

Positive is worse and it seems you've got positive based on the tyre wear you mention! My advice is don't wait, get that full 4-wheel laser alignment done asap!! It costs a lot but is well worth it! Don't skimp!

Almost forgot, if the outer edge wears you've got excessive toe-in... but from this you get better straight line stability (it cancels out road irregularities too). If the inner edges wear you get better turning characteristics (toe out)... Normally camber is fixed and its the castor and toe-in that can be set but you can by special adjusters to allow you to set all the angles, this is what the racers normally do...


Trev


Trev
 

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Trust Dowmax fitted

& Gary checked all the angles twice.[2nd time after a road run].
Find that the car is now more a rear wheel drive set up. The steering is now a little harder [but mine was very light in the first place]. Definately more grip as the car is lower. Ride a bit harsher over bad road surfaces [as you would expect]. Overall like it and think it is a good improvement. Oh [his is for GTR33/4man Paul D] now it has had its 3000 service after rebuild I took it over 7K revs. Shock horror - will I survive the stress! Oh yes!

Rgds Ian W.
 

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I had the tracking checked and its toeing out as much as it can but the tyres still wear on the outside, maybe its because the car is so low?
 

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If you cant get any more adjustment, then you will need a camber correction kit. This basically inserts a plate to allow the adjustment to be made.

Leigh
 

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Talking of funny shocks......I've got "Office" shocks on my car!!

They're adjustable, and the car is lowered, but what the hell are "Office" shocks like? The car was obviously imported with them fitted.:confused:
 
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