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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Ladies and Gentlemen,
Some of you might be aware, last month, just before the Snetterton Track day, my turbo seals sprung a leak.

I'm currently in the process of removing them to fit some GTR ones.

So far, I have managed to get past removing the 'simple' parts. That is the coolant feeds, masses of tubing etc. I have even managed to take the nuts off the exhaust manifold (front turbo).

Next step in the manual is to remove the turbo charger support, thats the bit I am struggling with...



So far, everything has been possible from above, is it now time to get under the car?

Also, I don't have the tool for removing the exhaust gas sensors. Any advice on that?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I have sucsessfully managed to locate and undo the two bolts on the support for the front turbo (the rear is much more accessible).

Next hurdle is the oil feed and then I think the front turbo is out!

I have the turbo supported with a coupe of the bolts screwed on the manifold to prevent it dropping and bending the tubing below although at present its pretty solid.

As far as I can see, I have a few options. Loosen the jubilee clip connecting the rubber tube to the feed from the engine block, unscrew the feed from the engine block (this seems the most accessible), or, undo the actual metal tube from the bottom of the turbo held on with two bolts.

The latter seems the most difficult as they are shrouded by all-sorts of parts under there.

So far I have everything else ready to go on the front turbo including the support but it's not going to move until the oil feed is off.

I also have to work out some way of removing the exhaust gas sensors before dropping the turbo.

Come on guys...
 

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Im sure there is a guide on here, afew years old though. Have you done a search?
 

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The metal pipe on the block is for the oil return from the turbo back into the engine. Do not twist the metal pipe off from the engine block but remove the jubilee clip connecting it to the rubber hose . Afterwards you should be able to pull the turbo up and out from the engine bay without any issues.

Also you may want to think about replacing the solid water and oil feed pipes for the turbos with flexible braided items when you put the turbos back, make fitting much easier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The metal pipe on the block is for the oil return from the turbo back into the engine. Do not twist the metal pipe off from the engine block but remove the jubilee clip connecting it to the rubber hose . Afterwards you should be able to pull the turbo up and out from the engine bay without any issues.

Also you may want to think about replacing the solid water and oil feed pipes for the turbos with flexible braided items when you put the turbos back, make fitting much easier.
Cheers mate. Thats a help. I still need to figure out how to get the Exhaust Sensor out before. I may wait until its out then I can get a regular spanner on to it. Just don't want to break one of them.
 

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Im assuming your talking about the lamda? erm on my gtr its a 19mm i think, just use a spanner but be cautious theyre fairly fragile, id advise using a lubricant on it first as they can be pretty tight, id also advise doing it when the turbo is fixed in unless you have a vice? as they are wriggly lil things..

the bolts that connect the oil and water feeds are also held on with 17mm and 19mm bolts, but as said easiest thing to do is disconnect the joining rubber hoses,.

hope this helps
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Im assuming your talking about the lamda? erm on my gtr its a 19mm i think, just use a spanner but be cautious theyre fairly fragile, id advise using a lubricant on it first as they can be pretty tight, id also advise doing it when the turbo is fixed in unless you have a vice? as they are wriggly lil things..

the bolts that connect the oil and water feeds are also held on with 17mm and 19mm bolts, but as said easiest thing to do is disconnect the joining rubber hoses,.

hope this helps
Excellent, was going to continue last weekend but I had to work all of it :rolleyes:

Anyways, this weekend looks clear. Problem with the Lambdas is I cant get a normal spanner on as there is no room.

Am looking forward to getting the turbos out asap, then it's all up hill fitting the others from here. Wish I had the cash to upgrade. Presumably, the stock r34 turbos will go straight in.

I have to say, the rear turbo mounting bolts are a damn sight easier to get to than the front ones but a little contortion under the car and perseverance and they come out.
 

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just un plug the o2 sensors from the main loom and leave them in the dump they wont stop the turbos coming out
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ok so, no one know anything about restrictors? I'm not ready to fit the R34's yet.

Today, I dropped the Y pipe (pipe that goes from both turbos, merging into one before connecting to the exhaust pipe) out and removed the large rubber oil tube on the bottom of the turbo. This will allow the turbos to drop away from the exhaust manifolds, I was hoping to have them out.

Today's problem is this - Having dropped the front turbo down, it won't drop down far enough for the studs on the turbo to clear the exhaust manifold. The turbo seems to be getting stuck on an engine mount directly below it.

I have unbolted the the oil and water lines which bolt onto the front of the turbo next to each other (their pipes coil under the turbo) but left them in place as they run behind the rear turbo along the block.

Ideally, I would take the exhaust manifold off but can't see a way to get to two of the nuts on it with the turbo in the way.

What should I do! I'm sure this thread will be helpful to others in the future.
 

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can remember a friend doing this and im quite sure the exhaust manifolds came off, you have to undo nuts that hold turbo to manifold then drop the turbo an go through the gap you just created between manifold an turbo to reach the manifold to head nuts, hope you understand!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
can remember a friend doing this and im quite sure the exhaust manifolds came off, you have to undo nuts that hold turbo to manifold then drop the turbo an go through the gap you just created between manifold an turbo to reach the manifold to head nuts, hope you understand!!!
I feared that may be the case! Damn! Anyone know any different?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Right, it's Saturday morning and time to go grab myself either 3/8 or 1/4 inch socket set so I can get this job done as I don't think my half inch extension will fit through the gap between turbo and manifold. Will update later today with my progress.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
:squintdan:squintdan:squintdan:squintdan:squintdan:squintdan

Front turbo out! I needed to use a 1/4 inch drive Clarke ratchet on the left hand nut and a spanner on the right hand nut. Approaching both from the left of the manifold (towards the front of the car). Just used a ring spanner on the handle of the ratchet to crack the nut and an extension and impact mallet on the end of the spanner to crack that nut. Took at least 2 hours though!!!

I tried going inbetween the cracked turbo and the manifold. Unfortunately, the U/V joint for the 3/8 fouled the turbo slighty. Seeing as the manifold bolts point down ever so slightly, I couldn't get onto them with it.

If i'd had a shallower U/V joint it would have been possible.

Next up, rear turbo. I have a feeling this is going to be a lot simpler! Just a few pipes to clear in order to remove the manifold heat shield. The turbo support under the turbo is a lot easier to get to and now that the Y pipe is off it should drop down a treat!

I'm still in need of advice on oil restrictors for the R34 turbos...

I can't tell you how happy I am to have those two bolts off!!!
 
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