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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Afternoon everyone,

Quite frankly I would like to know as I am extremely new to everything skyline, what points I should look out for when viewing a car at the end of the week.

I am aware of rust around the front shock struts and rear arches but other than that I am unsure? (other than normal stuff like crash damage etc).

If that could include anything whilst the car is moving e.g. brakes juddering or what ever a common occurrence is then that would be great.

Also I am sorry if this has been covered before, I have been trying to do some research on it and of course I am sorry if this is in the wrong section.

Nick.
 

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Rust, rust and rust most importantly! How much MOT has it got and what sort of price is he looking at. I am sure people on here could advise.

Perhaps you could take a few photos when looking round it?
 

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Check it makes good oil pressure both hot and cold, do a compression test too if you can
 

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as above. Rust, but not just the arches or struts. Look under the car along the sills and run your hand along the inside of the rear qtr at the bottom. Plus all the normal stuff as well. Test drive it and change through all the gears 1-5 then 5-1.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Rust, rust and rust most importantly! How much MOT has it got and what sort of price is he looking at. I am sure people on here could advise.

Perhaps you could take a few photos when looking round it?
MOT unsure of as we haven't spoke much about it as the guy is busy with work for a little while. Rust will definitely be on the cards as a main thing to look for.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Is it modified?
From the quick conversation I had with the gent, it has a different exhaust system (unsure of how far is goes towards the engine in regards to the cat or manifold), a different set of air intakes and some form of either boost controller or management computer of sorts? Didn't quite catch it when he mentioned it.

Oh and coilovers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
as above. Rust, but not just the arches or struts. Look under the car along the sills and run your hand along the inside of the rear qtr at the bottom. Plus all the normal stuff as well. Test drive it and change through all the gears 1-5 then 5-1.
Right OK will do thanks bud,

I presume doing full lock circles is a good way to listen for knocking in the diff too?
 

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Where is the vehicle based? Sounds a bit odd that you'd be wanting to buy it without knowing too much about it esspecailly as it isn't for sale. How much is he asking?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Where is the vehicle based? Sounds a bit odd that you'd be wanting to buy it without knowing too much about it esspecailly as it isn't for sale. How much is he asking?
I suppose it's a weird story. I have wanted a skyline for quite some time but haven't had the time due to work to go view some. So this weekend before picking my wife up from work I stop at my local Tesco to get some cash out.

There is a GTR parked up and I go :eek: and park next too it, get out have a quick look and go get the cash. Upon coming back the owner turns up and I compliment the car, he said he doesn't use it enough and frankly doesn't have the time to list it for sale but wants to sell it, it also turns out that by a stroke of luck he lives 8 miles away from me (both in Berkshire) so I am (once he has free) going to have a proper look and test drive of the car. As at the time the wife was getting impatient. I didn't manage to get too much in the way of detail on it other than the bare basics :)

He said he wants around £8000, which to me sounds about right, it's a midnight purple one.
 

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I'd be very wary of buying a car just because it's local. If you are really serious you need to get more information out of him. Who's serviced it, exactly what mods has it got and what it's history is. Location is THE least important factor when buying a money pit.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I'd be very wary of buying a car just because it's local. If you are really serious you need to get more information out of him. Who's serviced it, exactly what mods has it got and what it's history is. Location is THE least important factor when buying a money pit.

Mike
Thanks dude

That is why I am going to view it first and have a chat with him about it then, as I said I had no time when I met him and the car looked brilliant so I felt it was worth my time in regards to a viewing and test drive in the future. That coupled with the advice you guys can give I think I will have a better chance of making a informed decision.
 

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Sorry I can't offer any meaningful advice on an R33. But the one thing that really puts me off sales is very common... people who have apparently done huge amounts of work modifying their car/engine but it's still not that quick, because it 'just needs injectors and a remap..' How many times have I heard that? Thousands of pounds worth of work and they stopped at the last tiny bit? Really? Car running 380 BHP. Good for 700+ :rolleyes:
 

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Compression check:

You need a compression check tool- available from Halfords etc

To do it, have the car warm and up to operating temp. Disconnect the cas sensor (round thing on front of engine). Remove coil pack cover, disconnect coil pack harness, remove coil packs then remove the spark plugs.

Screw the compression tester into one of the spark plug holes, crank the engine over for about 4 turns. See what the gauge reads, make a note of it and then repeat on the remaining 5 cylinders. Before removing the gauge from a cylinder make sure you release the pressure using the little button on the tester!

150psi is a good figure. There may be variance in the cylinders but as long as its around +/- 5psi it's all good.
 
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