Coming along nicely Kev. Get some DINITROL ML3125 and Bob also uses epoxy mastic to cover the entire bottom. What seam sealer are you going to use?
:chuckle::chuckle::chuckle::chuckle::chuckle:If I'm being honest, I probably will, but in such a way that it can be covered by seam sealer,
Can you imagine someone getting this car in the future, assuming it's standard from It's appearance, then taking it to have some work done and the mechanic saying " hey mate, did you know this thing is fully seem welded".
Don't really know yet, I put a bit on the other day before I left, checked on it this afternoon and it looks exactly the same, when I read the label, it said that the treated area should be painted within three hours of applying the kurust to protect the metal and avoid the rust coming back, considering I didn't do that and it's still ok, I'm hoping that's a good sign.looking good. what did you think to the hammerite kurust ? as it worked well. i used some on my boot may be a different sort but the rust is starting to come back even after a good clean
Hi C7 JFW,What a terrific inspiration. I've got an R33 GT-R Shell to attack myself and this is a great motivator towards getting that well under way!
Your attention to detail is just what i've been looking for.
Couple of questions:
You strip using the flat scraper you pictured plus thinners. Am I correct in thinking these are simple, petroleum based thinners you can pick up at B&Q?
You mentioned a scotch pad to be abbrasive with - can that be obtained from B&Q as well?
Where the sill sections were flattened, did you simply un-tack the welds, cut the section out and then hammer until it was the correct shape from the opposite side until you can tack it back into place?
I've got a good quantity of experience with drills and grinding wheels, however none at the level you've demonstrated in these pictures.