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Coming along nicely Kev. Get some DINITROL ML3125 and Bob also uses epoxy mastic to cover the entire bottom. What seam sealer are you going to use?
 

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Discussion Starter #182
Hi FRRACER,
Thanks for the info, seam sealer wise, a member of the family runs a high end car body shop and he said he'd help me out with product choice, he's been at it for over thirty years, so should have a good understanding of what works and what doesn't.
Never thought to ask him about the rust inhibitor, just got a small bottle while I was at the shop the other day, and coating wise, I'm thinking of trying a product called bed liner, it's what they use to coat the back of pickup trucks and can be tinted or painted over, is also extremely resilient to chipping and flaking due to the rubberised nature of the product, also the one I'm looking at can be thinned down and sprayed on to give a better finnish, all this is quite a way off though, so plans may change.
 

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Man I wish I could get into such a fine detail restore like this. I would be afraid of what I would find. I already have some firewall rust that needs to be fixed asap.
 

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You're making great progress Kev, still reading with much interest! I can't help you with the dent around the exhaust though I'm afraid.
 

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Discussion Starter #185
Redeyez808,

Thanks for looking, it was never my intention to go this far when I started, but to just paint the bay while the engine was out, I guess things kinda snow ball once you get going, every now and then the gravity of what I'm doing hits home and I think WTF have I done, I could be driving this now.
I suppose the main thing is to be realistic about time scales and expenditure, the other is to have somewhere to do it, or maybe the other way round, if I didn't have the garage there's no way I would have even started a project of this scale, but then again, if I didn't have the project I wouldn't have finished the garage, or are they both the same project, hang on, hang on, this is to deep for 6:30am, cuppa time, catch ya later,


Aus32,

So glad you still find it interesting enough to comment on, and the fact that you read it as well, rather than just look at the pictures is nice, more in a couple of weeks, I'm going to get that cuppa now, see ya,

Regards Kev.
 

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looking good. what did you think to the hammerite kurust ? as it worked well. i used some on my boot may be a different sort but the rust is starting to come back even after a good clean
 

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If I'm being honest, I probably will, but in such a way that it can be covered by seam sealer,
Can you imagine someone getting this car in the future, assuming it's standard from It's appearance, then taking it to have some work done and the mechanic saying " hey mate, did you know this thing is fully seem welded".
:chuckle::chuckle::chuckle::chuckle::chuckle:

Bahahahh im sure it wont be standard under the bonnet ?:runaway:
 

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What a terrific inspiration. I've got an R33 GT-R Shell to attack myself and this is a great motivator towards getting that well under way!

Your attention to detail is just what i've been looking for.

Couple of questions:
You strip using the flat scraper you pictured plus thinners. Am I correct in thinking these are simple, petroleum based thinners you can pick up at B&Q?

You mentioned a scotch pad to be abbrasive with - can that be obtained from B&Q as well?

Where the sill sections were flattened, did you simply un-tack the welds, cut the section out and then hammer until it was the correct shape from the opposite side until you can tack it back into place?

I've got a good quantity of experience with drills and grinding wheels, however none at the level you've demonstrated in these pictures.
 

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Discussion Starter #190
looking good. what did you think to the hammerite kurust ? as it worked well. i used some on my boot may be a different sort but the rust is starting to come back even after a good clean
Don't really know yet, I put a bit on the other day before I left, checked on it this afternoon and it looks exactly the same, when I read the label, it said that the treated area should be painted within three hours of applying the kurust to protect the metal and avoid the rust coming back, considering I didn't do that and it's still ok, I'm hoping that's a good sign.
I have every intention of doing the rest of the underneath, before applying a good coat of etch primer, but don't know if I will continue to use kurust or the one that FRRacer suggested, still need to find some info about that one yet though, just for my own sake, I'll update if anything changes.

Regards Kev.
 

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Discussion Starter #192
What a terrific inspiration. I've got an R33 GT-R Shell to attack myself and this is a great motivator towards getting that well under way!

Your attention to detail is just what i've been looking for.

Couple of questions:
You strip using the flat scraper you pictured plus thinners. Am I correct in thinking these are simple, petroleum based thinners you can pick up at B&Q?

You mentioned a scotch pad to be abbrasive with - can that be obtained from B&Q as well?

Where the sill sections were flattened, did you simply un-tack the welds, cut the section out and then hammer until it was the correct shape from the opposite side until you can tack it back into place?

I've got a good quantity of experience with drills and grinding wheels, however none at the level you've demonstrated in these pictures.
Hi C7 JFW,

The thinners I used was a Tetrosyl product, they make things like T Cut, doubt you'll be able to get it from B&Q as it's solvent based, they only seem to do water based products these days, but your local car accessory shop should have it.

B&Q will probably stock scotch bright, but you will also get that from the car accessory shop as well, and it may be cheaper, unless it's Halfords of course.

As for straightening the sill, I used a bit of all sorts really, various sized and shaped hammers, iron blocks, bits of flat bar, mole grips, pretty much anything I had to hand at the time to get the shape back, I did drill out the welds where the original jacking point was flattened, purely because the metal was a little thicker and I couldn't get in to it with the grips, blocks or hammer.

The chassis section was removed to allow access, again because the damage was so bad, I haven't cut any metal out yet, just managed to massage it back in to shape, though there is a couple of bits that do need replacing.

Please bear in mind that using a scraper is a very long and laborious way of doing it, I use it because of the early morning sessions I tend to do, (it's very quite) and if you do have access to a grinder with a wire wheel attachment, It's a much faster way, you'll still need the thinners to remove the residue, which ever method you use, hope this help.

Good look with what ever you decide to do,

Regards Kev.
 

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You boys are dedicated to use scrapers/brillo pads

As Kev says, if you have an angle grinder and a wire wheel, use that, it will go through most of the stuff in no time then the bits left over you can get your scraper out
 

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Discussion Starter #195
Had to go get some steel work for a job I'm doing today, so while I was there I got a couple of bits to make a grinder stand,



Marked them out,



Drilled them,



Lined them up ready to weld,



Then thought I've got a tig welder I haven't really used yet, so,



One grinder stand,



No real close up of the welds, they're not that good yet, a bit more practise needed, it has been 20 years,

Regards Kev.
 

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Discussion Starter #196
I used just normal thinners and Brillo pad !
It is just normal thinners, Tetrosyl is just the brand, and scotch bright is cheaper than brillo pads, as I've said before, just a guy in a shed, no secret methods or expensive gadgets.

Kev.
 

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Also noticed this dent, don't know if it's factory or not, it's where the exhaust goes, the paint surface isn't broken inside the car, maybe it's been tapped in to make a little more room, or maybe it's just been battered, don't know if I should tap it out or not, any thoughts???



Close up,



had a look at mine today why working on it, they is a dent in mine in the same place not as deep but you can see it
 
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