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I have been in talks with the guy who makes them about a group buy.
The only problem is you R33 and R34 owners as your battery is in the boot!
He is found gold distribution blocks which will change the R32 kits to suit
the 33 and 34. But as he's not familiar with either 33 or 4 he'd like to
meet up with someone and try is first. The kit will then be yours FREE,
and even better fitted!!! :smokin: :smokin:

So I'll ba after a volunteers when I find out what area he is from.
 

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Not sure you need a long lead to go al the way to the boot. Surely if you have enough of a "mat" across the engine and local non-engine contacts you can a sufficiently stable earth mat?
 

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I'd have thought that the chassis of the car would form a better earth return to the negative terminal of a battery mounted in the boot, rather than running a 10 foot wire all the way down to it specially. There's gotta be more conductor area/volume in the metal of the chassis than a cable, (even a thickish one). :confused:

I guess the chassis is forming an earth return already for lots of other electrical devices though, so maybe a dedicated wire is better as there is less loading. However if you are running multiple earthing points to various bits of the engine then you are in the same scenario surely with several returns down the one wire. :confused: :confused:
 

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Battery location R33 and R34 GTR's

Of course the battery is only in the boot of an R33 GTR or R34 GTR, I think GTS GTT's have the battery in the correct place - under the hood!

The "kit" for these really needs to have a lead to the battery running under the car as does the HKS car specific kit. Somthing to do with uninterupted returns? (not sure what that means).

Nik W
 

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I guess they help in that if the earth sie of the battery has a direct connection to various points on the engine, the earth return will be better than going via corroded conections via the chasis.

Corroded earth connections increase the return resistance and so whilst and earthing kit will not cure a problem, it will make electrical system "run" better due to the lack of resistance back to the battery -ve point.


Scott,
The chap can use my R34 GTR car for the measurements if he is not too far away.

Nik W
 

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The guy is in Daventry, Northants.

I'm not sure if he'd intend on running a cable all the
way back, but it makes sense. Maybe who ever is
local and meets him can suggest it?

Any volunteers?
 

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Originally posted by NikWilson
I guess they help in that if the earth side of the battery has a direct connection to various points on the engine, the earth return will be better than going via corroded conections via the chasis.
But surely if you clean up the mounting point on the chassis properly then the connection back to the battery negative will be as good, if not better, than going all the way to the boot via a relatively thin cable, (in relation to the chassis).

I'm interested in this myself, as my battery has been moved to the boot, and I was gonna go for a well connected block earthed to the chassis under the bonnet as the earthing point for a circle earth kit. I must admit though that I have no real running issues that I can attribute to poor earths, but I bet a load of blue wires under the bonnet would look trick, which can't be a bad thing. :D

In fact if you ensure that all earth conections are clean and corrosion free then a circle earth kit would serve no purpose I'd have thought. All you're doing with a circle earth kit is fixing the symptoms of faults casued by poor earths, when perhaps it'd be better to solve them at the source, by cleaning up all appropriate connections. :confused:
 

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I typed a long technical reply to this yesterday, but it didn't post :(

In a nutshell, it said that yes, the car chassis is not the best ground, but nor is a circle earth kit, and gave some technical reasons why.

Matt Payne hit the main justification right on the head when he said he was a tart. We like cool shiny things on our cars and that is a good enough reason for most of us.

In my experience, there are only two earth straps on a car that are fairly important to have good connections on - one is the battery negative terminal to chassis, and the other is the engine block to chassis.
 

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GTRalex said:
Of course the battery is only in the boot of an R33 GTR or R34 GTR, I think GTS GTT's have the battery in the correct place - under the hood!

The "kit" for these really needs to have a lead to the battery running under the car as does the HKS car specific kit. Somthing to do with uninterupted returns? (not sure what that means).

Nik W
All R33's have the battery in the boot..

The HKS Circle Earth Kit does not contain a earth lead which runs all the way back to the battery. It has an engine bay kit and an boot kit. The engine bay kit runs several earth points back to the distribution block, which is earthed to the chassis, and the boot kit, has complementary battery earth straps connecting to the HICAS and ATTESSA computers.
 

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Evening :cool:

I'm Scott's contact from www.groundingkits.co.uk, with the R32 grounding kits on ebay.

I'm currently sorting a kit suitable for 33s and 34s, the issue holding things up being the battery in the boot.

My plan was to ground to the satellite terminal on the drivers side of the engine bay and use a gold distribution block to link the rest of the kit to it. Having never had a decent look at this satellite terminal I'm still developing a connector for it. I have Ged from here coming over to work on a solution with me later this week, but in the meantime some info on the terminal would be great if possible.

Does anyone have any close-up pictures of the negative terminal? I hope it is drilled through otherwise a more sophisticated connector will need to be used :p

Thanks in advance, any questions let me know either through this thread or email [email protected]

Cheers

Pete
 

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Just an update on this - I have an R33/34 kit sorted now and am waiting for a few bits to arrive before I can start doing them.

FYI There are two parts, a boot kit, with a gold battery clamp and 2 earth cables in addition to the stock earth strap. Also an engine bay part which contains a neat gold distribution block and six earth cables.

Big thanks to Ged for coming all the way over to me in his R33 beast to help design and test fit the kit :smokin:

Cheers

Pete
 

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Pete,

Can you supply the boot kit separately? Quite a few people already have HKS Circle Earth or similar which does not come standard with the long lead for the boot. I would be interested in adding this and maybe others would too?
 

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ERR

Might I ask what material the gold is flashed or plated over ?

Gold is only used to help prevent oxidisation of the contact and adds virtually nothing to an otherwise GOOD earthing connection.
Copper is very heavy compared with aluminium and as such is usually used for it's flexibilty rather than its conductivity. Perfectly good, crimped aluminium, would produce similar results and be both lighter and cheaper, but I am not so sure that stranded alluminium is available, generally.

All cars that require wiring are manufactured to a budget, but I would assume that the car manufacturersr go to great lengths to ensure that wiring looms and and the subsequent use of chassis / body returns are near optimum. All NEW motor vehicles are subject to radio frequency emission and immunity testing and must comply with specific automotive standards. The wiring and routing of wiring may be very critical here as indeed will be, bad connections. This testing will cost the manufacturer, a hell of a lot of money, to satisfy the requirement.

I have to wonder what all this extra earthing might do to expensive test results ?

If we ever get drive by wire (fully) with all electrical circuits being controlled by serial communications, then I think the problems will change significantly. Certainly, we will NOT be able to just start adding earth wires at will, as most circuits will have sensors, measuring things like light-bulb currents etc and adding wires may well upset this, causing errors to be reported.

Guess thats about it for now. These are purely my thoughts.
Graham
 

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Fuggles - yep I'll do the boot part separately no probs. It won't contain a long cable though - that's what we strived to avoid. Although I'd have no probs doing a 3 or 4 metre long cable to route through, it won't be part of the normal kit.

Geeb - I'm sure you are right and will remember to state in future that the kits won't be suitable for cars with drive-by-wire systems ;) :p

If resistances of earth cables became that important in automotive electrical sysytems of tomorrow, then degradation over time of the cabling due to heat etc would cause major running issues, so I can't see it being utilised fully :)
 

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The cabling is 99.9999% oxygen free copper stranded (yes 4 decimal places :D), similar look to the stuff used in ICE installs.

The clamp/distribution blocks are heavy, and so I doubt it is aluminium underneath, though I've never chiselled the gold off :p I'm not sure but think its probably iron/copper. The clamps are made by US Blaster, really nice quality, and the distribution blocks are "Shark" branded on the plastic casing and are similarly good quality.
 
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