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Just wondering if it is correct to dyno a R33 on a 2wd or a awd dyno. The reason I ask is because of course it is RWD until you get loss of traction and then it kicks into awd mode. I would THINK AWD since you would probably have slippage on a dyno, but I just wanted to be sure.

Sorry for the dumb question. This is my first performance car that was not full time AWD.


-Sayajin
 

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Couldnt get the spacers off my front wheels on Dyno day so pulled the fuse and went RWD all the way. They told me it wouldnt make a difference.
 

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raaaaaaay said:
Couldnt get the spacers off my front wheels on Dyno day so pulled the fuse and went RWD all the way. They told me it wouldnt make a difference.

Bad idea for an R33. R33's have a backup power supply. If you pull the fuse, it partially locks up the transfer case. This partial lockup will eventually cause enough heat to burn out the transfer case clutch.

I learned this the hard way. The way to do it, is to pull the driveshaft if you are going to dyno an R33 2wd.
 

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is it ok to dyno an r32 gtr in 2wd? whats the difference likely to be in power figures?
 

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There is, you remove the hydraulic pipe from the 4WD piston on the back of the gearbox. You then have to remove the fuses that run the 4WD system or it'll pump fluid everywhere.
 

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bit of a pain in the rectum to do that though?? and would that affect any of the readout figures being run in 2wd rather than 4wd??
 

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It wouldn't affect the rear wheel output. I think you would get hardly any transmission loss throught the trasfer box on its own.
 

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R32 Combat said:
There is, you remove the hydraulic pipe from the 4WD piston on the back of the gearbox. You then have to remove the fuses that run the 4WD system or it'll pump fluid everywhere.
If you remove the pipe, and pull the fuse, then it will pump fluid everywhere due to the back up solenoid.

Take the front driveshaft out, Front propshaft whatever you might call it over there in the UK. The single shaft that goes from the transfercase to the front diff.

4 12 mm bolts/nuts hold it in. Its locked on one side. You need a good thin wall box end wrench to get it off. They are easy to strip. On an R33 you need a 14mm to take the clutch slave cylinder off, and the crossover frame reinforcement off. 10mm for the bracket for the small steering line.

When you remove it, the transfercase end DOES NOT leak. I was looking at the wiring diagram last night, within the R34 ATTESA pump they call it the "FAIL SAFE SOLENOID". When you lose power you end up with pressure against the transfer case. I have had this happen to me with R33's and R34's when the ATTESA light comes on.
 

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tyndago said:
About 20 wheel is what I see.
I'd back that too, we see just under 20 hub HP between 2 and 4 wheel drive on the same car (we have done that test in the past out of curiousity).
 

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Bad idea for an R33. R33's have a backup power supply. If you pull the fuse, it partially locks up the transfer case. This partial lockup will eventually cause enough heat to burn out the transfer case clutch.

I learned this the hard way. The way to do it, is to pull the driveshaft if you are going to dyno an R33 2wd.
thats interesting, my 4wd doesn't work and I spoke to the tuner who rolling roaded it for the previous owner..they just took the fuse out so that explains my juddery non functioning 4wd.. buggers !

nice to revive a thread now and again !
 

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thats interesting, my 4wd doesn't work and I spoke to the tuner who rolling roaded it for the previous owner..they just took the fuse out so that explains my juddery non functioning 4wd.. buggers !

nice to revive a thread now and again !
It would have hurt the clutches in the transfercase. Its not too difficult to replace the transfer or clutches.

A video of the ATTESA system and transfercase. YouTube - Nissan Skyline GT-R ATTESA System Transfercase
 

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I heard it's a real pig to change..I have the whole assembly as per the video( not sure if the bearing is on it...thats worrying?) ..bearing in mind everything is still on the car..
 

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I heard it's a real pig to change..I have the whole assembly as per the video( not sure if the bearing is on it...thats worrying?) ..bearing in mind everything is still on the car..
I guess I have done transmissions so much, its not too big of a deal to me. Like anything, the first time is difficult.

A lift, and a couple bodies to help get it out speeds things up.

You can replace it in the car, but I recommend dropping the trans.
 
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