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Right thanks for clearing that up so need to find someone who can pressure test with the head warmed up or in hot water. I am reluctant to do this head mod until a crack is found.
it may not leak I don't know, but what I do know for sure is a crack will open as the temperature rises mate.

im still mithed by your issues as to what caused them. have the valves been checked yet on the cylinder with low compression ?

all it needs is some fuel pouring in the inlet/exhaust port with the head on its side and see if any fuel leaks through the valve seat into the combustion chamber.
 

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Discussion Starter · #82 ·
yep I did that test and it did leak on the two inlets, I think this is where the plug debris got stuck by the looks of it I think It should be ok once re lapped, but I am going for bronze guides, uprated springs so I guess the seats will need to be re cut anyway and valves lapped.

I have taken this opportunity to do a whole engine rebuild now.

I think you run some 10.3mm lift cams? I am looking at 260 10.25 inlet and 252. 9.15 exch cam option, however the two cams have a different base circle, 30mm for the inlet and 32mm for the exch cam. Tomei do lifters that are suited to the smaller base circle of the procam, but not sure how that would work with the exch which has 32mm bc and that of the oem cams. Would it just need to be re shimmed??
 

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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
If anyone else has the same symptoms - first thing to test would be the oem oil cooler on the engine block. Mine cracked inside which caused the issue of oil and water mixing.
 
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