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Discussion Starter #1
Been running my 33GTR now for 6weeks or so trouble free.

Wanted to see if my car really was limited to 180KM/h,so got the car up to just over 180 on the clock,car wouldn't go any faster,no real surprise.
But from then on(yesterday) it started to lose power around 2.5K RPM then died,no warning lights.Started again fine and no further problems.

Today drove to work, no problem,even once warm.Driving home, engine got to temperature and refused to go above 2.5K RPM typically on dual carriageway! pulled over revved the engine, smooth sweep up the range 'til 2.5 then wouldn't go any higher.
Sat idling for two minutes or so and could then rev freely.......

Advice for the noob please kind ladies and gents!!
TIA
George

EDIT forgot to mention,not sure if relevant, throttle wire/cable seems a little slack,
it's at it's max adjustment....
 

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I seem to recall someone else having this problem, but that's all my crap memory will allow me.

Will the car rev over 2.5K when you manually yank on the throttle on the engine?
 

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sounds like a fuelling problem to me. have you cleaned the afms and checked all boost pipes are secure?
 

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speaking of AFMs, is there any real point to the mesh on either end? I've half a mind to take it out, seeing as the actual sensor, when installed, is perfectly protected by the air filters.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the replies guys:thumbsup:

I'll check if I can get the engine to rev past 2.5K manually and check AFMs
and pipes.
The fact that this is happening so intermitantly is odd,thought I'd put the
ECU to limp mode but then the fact it returns to normal so quickly is weird:nervous:
Ah, the joys of learning about new cars!!:cool:

Thanks again

George
 

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dunno if i'm going over old ground, and not sure on the skylines, but with the 200's if the AFM is throwing a fault code up it goes into a kind of "limp home" mode, which limits the revs to circa 2.5k.
so could well be that.
Also are you chucking out any clouds of smoke or does the exhaust gas stink of fuel? i blew the boost hose off the FMIC during some spirited driving which made the car really spluttery and the revs wouldn't go past about the 3k mark.
another one to check is plugs and packs i guess, and if all else fails timing :)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
^Cheers!
That what I was thinking from my 350Z days Stu.
No smoke or untoward smells either.....

Behaved itself to and from work today.
Going to give everything a once over all the same.
Thanks for all the advice,it's much appreciated!!

George
 

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AFM's mate, there has been a lot of posts on here regarding cars not revving past 2.5k. I have 2x spare std 70mm AFM's and 2 GTS-T 80mm AFM's (3-pin connection though) you are quite welcome to try these out if you want to see if they cure he problem, my GT-R is off the road at the moment getting engine work done (well its supposed to be getting done......that is if I can find the motivation from somewhere :chuckle: )

PM me if you want to borrow the AFM's :)

Cheers
Ian
 

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From my personal experience, i`ll bet any money that its the AFM`s.
I had this problem myself.
 

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If I have been removing my AFM pipe work, and refitting it, and then start the car and it only revs to 2.5k, I know to pop the AFM plug back on that I have left dangling:)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
If I have been removing my AFM pipe work, and refitting it, and then start the car and it only revs to 2.5k, I know to pop the AFM plug back on that I have left dangling:)
LOL! Normally I'd be the first to do something like that Dave :)
Cleaned the mesh(which was pretty clean) refitted everything and no joy.
Car last around five minutes before the symtoms start happening again:mad:
I've hacked open the wee plastic cover on each AFM hoping to see some dodgy solder as per the SkylineAUS site.Looks clean as the proverbial......
I am now the king of sub 2500RPM driving!:chuckle:

Any other things to try before I shell out for a pair of R32 ones on eBay?

George
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Problem solved....?

Disconnected the battery for 20mins.
Restarted, left idling 'til warm, then drove for 15mins no problems!!
Time will tell;)

Thanks again for everyones replies!!
 

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Had the same thing on mine in that it wouldn't rev past 2.5K when underload, but would if i just rev'd it while stationary change the AFM but still did the same In the end took it to a garage the pluged a wideband in and a A/F ratio meter and turned out to be the fuel pump was useless couldn't flow enough so ECU panaic and went into limp home.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Problem returns......

Sorry guys:rolleyes:

Car has been fine until Sunday's trip to Knockhill.
Must have done ~50 laps in total(6-8 each outing).

Had car idling in pits after last session when the revs dove and rose.
Drove to Perth where I had to disconnect battery again to make it back to
Aberdoom;)

Now the car won't drive anymore than 10 miles before playing up.
Boost seems to be climbing towards 0 while this is happening at really low revs,around 800-1000 which isn't usual,right?!

Seems to be boost/pressure related rather than the AFMs.When I had them off previously they were pretty damn clean.Cut out the sealant aswell to look for suspect soldering etc and they looked A1......

Help+advice required again please!

George
 

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Instead of all this guessing and such - Id rather messure if they for correct.

http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h34.pdf for a little help on MAF's.

I am quite sure that it's not a AFM that is fitted to your skyline's guys.
This is what an AFM looks like: (This is the vane type)
http://www.motorcarsltd.com/itemimages/IN104876.jpg

And this is an MAF: (Hot wire type)
http://img.alibaba.com/photo/50947720/air_flow_meter.jpg

The difference is that the MAF also messures the dense of the air that passes it, which the AFM doesnt.

Sorry for the b*tching - but I just feel that its easy'er to use the correct parts-name, and at the same time I'm trying to help a little.

/Swobber

Edit: I dont have the data for what current you should be getting on idle and on full throttle (Maximum engine speed) - Sorry for that.
 
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