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Discussion Starter #1
Can anyone help me here? my nissan skyline seems to be immobilised by an immobiliser
its a gts-t R32 type M.

situation:

opened the car from passenger side door with my key, then opened my own door but found it locked. opened with key my side.
drove for 30 yards then power cuts out and car slows down.

now it wont start.
no fuel indicated going into the engine!!
how do i get it up and running again?!?!

please help!
 

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Check the fuel pump fuse if you haven't done allready.

My clifford on my R32 was wired up to the rear of the fuse box to the fuel pump fuse. Possibly the fuse could have blown.

If not, try taking the battery off for about an hour or so... or just leave it off whilst you do something else during the day. Come back to it later and connect it back up, as it could possibly be an error inside the immobiliser control unit which may erase itself if dissconected from the power source.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
thanks for your replies, just come back from 3 hours of being in the rain trying to figure out what the problem is but still no such luck.
we've checked the fuse to the fuel pump but thats fine.
the car was turning over and we tried jump starting which did look like it was going to kick in but then it stopped.

the battery seems to have now died on us and its not ticking over anymore.
i have an inkling that it might be the battery dying completely.
going to get new battery tomorrow to replace it and see if that is the problem.
any other ideas anyone?
generally if the battery is dead and i've been driving it for a while (at least 3 hours during the course of the day) does that mean the alternator is gone also?

please reply asap

many thanks to the skyline community!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Have you got remote locking or is the immobilser linked to an alarm?

thanks for the suggestion, i'm not actually sure if the car has an immobiliser. its normal key lock open with no remote locking facility. it definitely doesnt have an alarm atm and there is no special turning on of the engine. Unless there is an immobiliser standard with the gtst r32 then i dont think i have one however there was a viper sticker on the window which apparently suggest it had an alarm in the past.
:confused:
 

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So there's definitely no fuel being pumped into the engine?

This is either down to an immobiliser fault, or either an earth problem down the wiring at the back of the car... or the fuel pump itself.

When you turn the ignition on, can you hear the fuel pump prime in the boot?

If it isn't down to these, have you checked for a spark? Another possible cause of non-start, would be a duff ignition amplifier (Module)... but this would show as non-sparking.

The alternator won't be knackered for any battery problem. You could try checking alternator charge power by using a multimeter if you are worried. Set the meter to V (Volts)... and put the positive end of the probe onto the main live feed to the alternator (One with the red rubber cover over it). Then put the negative probe onto the negative terminal on the battery. It should be pumping out around 12v/13v ish. Try it under load too, with all lights on, wipers, heating, radio hazards etc.... and check that it doesn't drop too low- IE: 8v. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So there's definitely no fuel being pumped into the engine?

This is either down to an immobiliser fault, or either an earth problem down the wiring at the back of the car... or the fuel pump itself.

When you turn the ignition on, can you hear the fuel pump prime in the boot?

If it isn't down to these, have you checked for a spark? Another possible cause of non-start, would be a duff ignition amplifier (Module)... but this would show as non-sparking.
thanks for the suggestion. Not sure if there is an immobiliser in the car since this is a fresh import vehicle and i'm the first uk driver of the car so its difficult to trace the owner or read the japanese manual lol.
the fuel pump works it seems as when we removed the battery from the skyline and simply connected the connection points to another car, it was virtually starting through the jump start wires and there were revs on the rev counter meaning the fuel was getting into the cylinders.
But as it is at the moment, the battery has been put back in (too late to buy a new one) and the initial key turn ticks the car over but on subsequent starting attempts, the dash lights dim and die until the car does not even make any sound apart from clicking of the starter.

From the above, does it seem like a battery problem? if it is, it also seems that the alternator is not working?
 

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Hmm.... so the car started with a battery off another car via jump leads? Sounds like it is a problem with the battery to be honest. :)

Also from where you said in your first post, that you unlocked the passenger side and the drivers side didn't unlock. Sounds like the battery was barely charged up enough to work the central locking, nevermind power the car. No wonder it cut out so soon, lol! :D

Had a similar problem with mine the other week, where the alternator buggered up on my way home from work. Ended up trying to get as far as possible... and just managed to get to the top of the road before the car started cutting out. Wasnt enough power left in the battery to even power the sidelights.

Would defo try a battery tomorrow. Sounds like from what you have said that it is the battery.

Probably a duff Jap battery on it anyway, if it's a fresh import. :)

EDIT: The rev counter will flicker up and down when turning over, even if there is no fuel being pumped into the engine. You could also try removing the feed fuel pipe from off the injector feed rail (Small hose clip with a possi drive head on it)... and turning it over and see if fuel comes out.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hmm.... so the car started with a battery off another car via jump leads? Sounds like it is a problem with the battery to be honest. :)

Also from where you said in your first post, that you unlocked the passenger side and the drivers side didn't unlock. Sounds like the battery was barely charged up enough to work the central locking, nevermind power the car. No wonder it cut out so soon, lol! :D

Had a similar problem with mine the other week, where the alternator buggered up on my way home from work. Ended up trying to get as far as possible... and just managed to get to the top of the road before the car started cutting out. Wasnt enough power left in the battery to even power the sidelights.

Would defo try a battery tomorrow. Sounds like from what you have said that it is the battery.

Probably a duff Jap battery on it anyway, if it's a fresh import. :)

EDIT: The rev counter will flicker up and down when turning over, even if there is no fuel being pumped into the engine. You could also try removing the feed fuel pipe from off the injector feed rail (Small hose clip with a possi drive head on it)... and turning it over and see if fuel comes out.
The car in itself did not start via jump leads just to state but the rev counter did show a movement. The abs light turned off but the car didnt start :confused: :confused:

Hope it is a battery problem as that can be easily solved, how much does an alternator change cost?
I've only had the car for 2 days and its already giving me grief, got to show the gal whose boss :)

I'm hopeful but tbh, got a lot of learning to do, dont know much about the skyline nor cars, spending 3 hours in the rain between 9-12 is not really my idea of fun on a friday night 'sigh'

just so i know, what are the main causes for non starts in the skyline so if its not the battery, then at least i can look at the options!
also, whats the quickest way to test whether the alternator is working?

p.s it is a duff japanese battery :p
 

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The car in itself did not start via jump leads just to state but the rev counter did show a movement. The abs light turned off but the car didnt start :confused: :confused:

Hope it is a battery problem as that can be easily solved, how much does an alternator change cost?
I've only had the car for 2 days and its already giving me grief, got to show the gal whose boss :)

I'm hopeful but tbh, got a lot of learning to do, dont know much about the skyline nor cars, spending 3 hours in the rain between 9-12 is not really my idea of fun on a friday night 'sigh'

just so i know, what are the main causes for non starts in the skyline so if its not the battery, then at least i can look at the options!
also, whats the quickest way to test whether the alternator is working?

p.s it is a duff japanese battery :p
lol, I'd agree with you there... definitely not fun on a friday night. :flame: :cool:

The rev counter will flicker though when turning it over regardless of fuel in the combustion chambers or not. The rev counter picks up it's signal from the crank position sensor which detects the rate at which the crankshaft is spinning, which is why it shows on the RPM when turning over. :)

Alternator change shouldn't be too expensive. Don't know how much they would charge in a garage, but I do all my own stuff so never really pay for anything other than an MOT and parts. :) They aren't too bad to change though, but if the alternator was picked up second hand for cheap... doubt a garage would charge much for fitting as they are in a very easily accessable place on the skylines.

If it isn't the battery, it could be multiple things:

Knackered ignition amplifier- This is the small square metal box with a corregated top to it. Located on the top cover (Black bit with Nissan 24v on) right at the back with two connector plugs - one on each side going into it.

Fuel pump problem:

Test by turning the ignition on (With a fully charged battery). Get somebody to turn the ignition on whilst you listen in the boot (Don't crank it though). You should hear a buzzing noise for a few seconds which means the fuel pump is priming itself for getting ready to pump the fuel when you turn it over.

If the battery doesn't work, then listen for the fuel pump next. If the fuel pump is buzzing when turning the ignition on, it won't be a problem with it... so then I'd turn my attention to the ignition system (Ie: Ignition amplifier, Coil packs (These sit on top of the spark plugs) ).

To test the alternator to see if it is working... you would have to have the engine running. If you did have the engine running, to check it... you would set the multi meter to V (Volts)... and put the positive end of the probe onto the main live feed to the alternator (One with the red rubber cover over it). Then put the negative probe onto the negative terminal on the battery. It should be pumping out around 12v/13v ish. Try it under load too, with all lights on, wipers, heating, radio hazards etc.... and check that it doesn't drop too low- IE: 8v. :)

Let us know how you get on... and I hope it's just the duff Japanese battery. Chances are it will be, as it's been sat on a boat for a good while. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
wow, have u ever considered being a specialist japanese mechanic with your knowledge? lol
maybe its normal to know so much, but sounds all bells and whistles to me, not the foggiest but hey, i'm learning!
what skyline have you got? any pics?
oh yeah, the way it stopped was when i was driving. started car and drove 50 yards down the road, hardly any revs or speed and then car suddenly slowed and stopped, almost like an immobiliser kicking in. Would that kind of stop remove the fuel pump cause or any of the other possible faults? or even eliminate the dead battery reason?
cars sometimes give more grief than gf/wife! lol
 

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Hehe, cheers bud. :) My occupation is a car mechanic/technitian. :cool: :)

Yup, I've got an R32 like yours in dark blue. Did buy it originally as a crash damaged car... and built it up (Well most of it) but then bought another car alongside it. I'm going picking some bits up for it tomorrow from the scrappers though (If they still have the Skyline in :chuckle: ).

Will get a pic or two up tomorrow when I take some. :)

You got any pics of your 32? :)

The way you described it, wouldn't really remove the fuel pump cause. If the fuel pump does give up.... it will probably do it in the way you suggested. Doubt it could be the ignition amplifier in this instance, but there could still be a possibility.

From what you said at the beginning though about unlocking the doors, it sounded as if the battery was low anyway. If you have been driving and it cut out... but restarted for a short time... could still be down to the battery being very low. When you was turning the car over with jump leads off another car, it wouldn't have really provided enough power to start your car properly if you didn't still have your battery connected. The Skyline engine's are 6 cylinder and need a lot of torque to get them started up.

If you have a battery charger, you could try charging the battery first? If the battery is the small type, as I believe all the Skyline's from Japan came with smaller batteries and small terminals. Some which have been in the UK for a while have had the terminal ends converted to the larger more common style, to accomodate bigger batteries. :)
 

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Hehe, cheers bud. :) My occupation is a car mechanic/technitian. :cool: :)

Yup, I've got an R32 like yours in dark blue. Did buy it originally as a crash damaged car... and built it up (Well most of it) but then bought another car alongside it. I'm going picking some bits up for it tomorrow from the scrappers though (If they still have the Skyline in :chuckle: ).

Will get a pic or two up tomorrow when I take some. :)

You got any pics of your 32? :)

The way you described it, wouldn't really remove the fuel pump cause. If the fuel pump does give up.... it will probably do it in the way you suggested. Doubt it could be the ignition amplifier in this instance, but there could still be a possibility.

From what you said at the beginning though about unlocking the doors, it sounded as if the battery was low anyway. If you have been driving and it cut out... but restarted for a short time... could still be down to the battery being very low. When you was turning the car over with jump leads off another car, it wouldn't have really provided enough power to start your car properly if you didn't still have your battery connected. The Skyline engine's are 6 cylinder and need a lot of torque to get them started up.

If you have a battery charger, you could try charging the battery first? If the battery is the small type, as I believe all the Skyline's from Japan came with smaller batteries and small terminals. Some which have been in the UK for a while have had the terminal ends converted to the larger more common style, to accomodate bigger batteries. :)
we did try jump starting the car with AND without the original battery in the skyline but the second was actually better than the first, as it almost looked liked it wanted to start and prolonged attempts made sure that the dash lights stayed on. with a prolonged attempt with the jump leads, the lights started to fade gradually until the car made the click noise.

its weird, as i have also a metallic dark blue skyline, could there be 2 now?
no pics yet, havent got round to it, but got to get the damn thing running again without losing me an arm and a leg! once its running, then was going to give it a good wax and clean tomorrow! any mods on your skyline?
 

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Was it turning over at a normal pace when jumping it the second time? If it was, doubt it is the battery... but if it was turning over reasonably slowly, it could very well still be. :)

Have you not got in touch with the place you bought it from/through? Maybe they know something about it.

On my Import Celica, it has an immobiliser fitted with a chip. The chip is inside a plastic surround, which I just sit on top of the dashboard near to where the immobiliser antenni is which picks up the signal.

There wasn't one of these on yours was there?

lol, seems a coincidence with two dark blue R32's. :) Mine's completely standard at the moment.... but did previously have a full GTR front end on it (GTR front bumper, lightweight bonnet with NISMO lip and grill)... but I swapped them back over to standard GTS bits for spare money. :) Yours got any bits on it?

Where abouts are you based? If I was anywhere near, I would take a look. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The sequence of battery checking went like this:

1st time: normal routine of jumping starting the battery from skyline to ford focus, upon starting attempt, ignition made sounds in engine but engine did not start.
2nd attempt: removed the japanese, smaller battery, and used the focus's battery via jump leads into empty terminals of the car/
result: ignition made the engine virtually start, lights in the dash stayed on without dimming but car didnt start. engine did sound louder and stronger on second attempt.

battery placed back into compartment. no jump cables, initial ignition did not improve on the first jump attempt and subsequently, the lights dimmed, battery slowly died until there is now just a click!

any logical answer here?
yeah, it is strange to have 2 identical color.
atm, its got front bumpers, side skirts, standard spoiler, cusco clutch and hks turbo with boost gauge. thats all the toys, got to get this baby working and then add some bits to it.
i'm based in essex near lakeside, will be posting some pics up soon. car has done 60 miles atm, made in 1991. how many years left? or would you class this as an old car?
 

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Sounds like you've got some nice toys fitted to it. :smokin:

Nah, 1991's not old... as a Skyline's a Skyline in it's own right. :) Mine's a 1990 on a G-Plate. Should have loads of life left in them... as they are mechanically and technically advanced for their age compared to other cars of the same years. Would have gone to have a look for you too... but I'm up in the north west, lol. :chuckle:

When you jumped the car via jump leads from the focus to the terminals on the Skyline..... it probably wouldn't of really provided enough power to start it up. There wouldn't of been a direct connection from your car to the battery, as it was via jump leads, so a lot of power would have been lost. The starter motor has a live feed coming straight from the positive terminal of the battery, so it needs a good amount of power going through.

Would try the battery though. When the cars have been stood for so long - especially on the boat, they would have lost a lot of their charge. Don't know if the battery has the removable caps on the top to check the cell water levels?

Sounds like it could have been stood for some time in Japan... and then on the boat coming over. The importer probably did a quick boost charge on the battery, as they will all be flat on every car coming over from Japan. You've then had the car two days, and it doesn't hold it's charge anymore. The alternator could be charging all it wanted to... but if the battery wasn't accepting it (Storing)... then that's why the batterys buggered. :) Cheapest first option would be to go with the battery first anyway before trying an alternator though. :)

As for the price of the battery, shouldn't be too much. I think they have the same battery as a Micra K11 or K10... but just check that the ampage is correct. :)

Hope you get it sorted, and let us know how it goes. :)

Elliot
 

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Discussion Starter #19
thanks for the breakdown. It does seem a very logical explaination you've given me, so hopefully things will work out tomorrow. i'll keep you informed!

As for the battery cell water levels, its midway on the high and low markers so shouldnt be a problem there. What ampage am i suppose to be looking for when i pick up the new battery tomorrow?

As for the toys, what i do want is a decent sound system, got a tape player at the mo!

took it through its paces yesterday, very quick car...took it over 100 and was still pushing!
 

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Hehe, sounds about right. :D Pull like a train these things do. :thumbsup:

Not too sure on the ampage... but if you get a heavy duty one for a Micra K11/K10 from Halfords etc... that should do fine.
Check the terminal sizes are correct though, as the new shape micra has the bigger terminal connectors on it.

Good luck, and I'll look forward to hearing from you. :thumbsup:
 
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