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R32 GTR
So, the car has been in storage for the past 6 years, and today after getting its new MOT, the HICAS light came on, and the steering went wonky-
Then, the light went off...a few minutes later, I was at the traffic lights, and HICAS light came on, and I could hear a knocking noise from under the bonnet...

The sterring stayed wonky, and I nursed it home


ANY IDEAS ???


Thnaks in advance
Carl
 

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ok

i checked fuse/steering fluid level- both fine

now its running super lumpy
and the hicas ecu is flashing- 10 times...stop....10 times....etc...etc

grrrr
 

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Seems like the starter is dead....
cracking- just been through the threads on how to remove it-
really not looking forward to that- jeeeez

so any other advice on the hicas?
light is on dash flickering quickly, and the ecu box is flashing - 10 times - stop - repeat
 

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Check your PM box:thumbsup:


Seems like the starter is dead....
cracking- just been through the threads on how to remove it-
really not looking forward to that- jeeeez

so any other advice on the hicas?
light is on dash flickering quickly, and the ecu box is flashing - 10 times - stop - repeat
 

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battery? If the battery is not fully charged, it fault the hicas computer on my car.
You can also test the hicas. Quite a faff to do but you wheels start wiggling and all sorts! Google how to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
will a dying alternator/battery cause the above problem with hicas-
gonna test the battery and alternator tomorrow morning, and check back.

What volts should i see if i can get the car started?
 

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Battery should be at least 11.5 or so volts when the car is off. Under 11 and it may not start.

Running should see over 12 volts at the battery. Alternator is trying for 14 volts, so it should be somewhere above 12 if it's working properly.

If the battery has a dead cell it will eat power and can cause issues, but I would guess your alternator may be to blame and when the battery finally got too low it started causing the Hicas and steering issues.

The old school test was to pull the negative battery terminal off when the car is running. Would remove the battery from the equation and see if the alternator is putting out enough voltage. But I was told that can cause damage to the voltage regulator in the alternator, so maybe don't try that.

Best of luck.

Cory
 

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When you mentioned a knocking noise under the bonnet I was about to suggest alternator.
These cars need a good alternator putting out a steady 14V or you will see warning lights pop up.
For some reason mine doesn't charge until around 2000rpm from the initial morning start and so I get all the warning lights.
Once she fires up to full charge everything works properly.
Me thinks voltage regulator is on its last legs.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
so, the battery has shown a severe drop in charge while running, which may point to alternator, but there is no where open on a saturday to get it tested - well annoying...

so, my mate is rigging a test bench and we will check it soon...

will let people know what the outcome is
 
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