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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Yes i know you are going to tell me to search but i have done!!:runaway:

I am wanting to lock out my hicas with a bar which reaches from one hub to the other rather than using a kit which keeps the steering rods etc. This is so i can get rid of the whole system.
Can i also get the plug on its own which Tomie do in their kit to eliminate the warning light coming on the dash?

Thanks in advance.
Ian.
 

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with a bar which reaches from one hub to the other
It it's not fixed to the chassis somewhere then although the wheels will be fixed together, they'll still waggle about on the bushings. :confused:

than using a kit which keeps the steering rods etc
Don't forget you still need to be able to adjust rear toe angle, so you'll still need some sort of threaded pivoting joint in there, (which the stock steering rods seem perfectly good at, what with being threaded and pivoty and all).


There's nothing wrong with the lock bar and stock track rods IMO, but I believe Cusco do a kit with short control arms and brackets that bolt on each side. If you have a look about, (perhaps try the Cusco website), you should find them, but be warned they are a far more expensive solution that the lock bar, (IIRC it was something like £325 for Cusco against £80 for the lock bar when I got mine).
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply Tim.
I did understand about the bar joining to the chassis to hold the wheels firm i just forgot to mention it! I thought the bar could attach to the chassis where the hicas rack used to be attached.
I take it that you have to go and get the wheels aligned again once you have locked the hicas?
 

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I thought the bar could attach to the chassis where the hicas rack used to be attached.
It does, and that then becomes a HICAS lockout bar that uses the stock rear track rods, which you said you didn't want in the first post. :confused:

Here's a (bad) picture of my setup, with the locking rack attached to the chassis, and the steering arms attached to that.



Here are the rear steering arms that you still use. I bought new ones as there was some play in mine. You will need something along these lines, (threaded rod with pivot) if you go down this route, and these seem to do the job fine.



The only other option is the Cusco thing I mentioned. Can't link directly to it, but if you follow this (wierdly titled) link and go to 'pillowball suspension', then scroll to the bottom you'll see what I'm on about:

Welcome to Adobe GoLive 4

take it that you have to go and get the wheels aligned again once you have locked the hicas?
Definitely. I tried to align my rear wheel using 2m long bits of box section ally and a steel rule, and although it all measured out right the car felt skittish under power. Had a proper four wheel alignment done and it was TONS better, best £65 I've spent on the car. They said the rears were a few degrees out each, causing the car to crab slightly. I had no chance of measuring that, you deffo need a professional alignment after and suspension component changes IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Another great reply thanks Tim.
That lockout bar seems to be the right option for me now.
How much was all the new arms from Nissan as i think it would be worth doing them while you have them off?
Where abouts did you buy the lockout bar from?

As for the search, come on, R32 rear toe angle!!:D ;)

What are the two items beside your new track rod arms?
 

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No probs mate. To answer your questions, (searchy search, I reckon I can probably answer all this using just my previous posts.......) ;)

How much was all the new arms from Nissan
http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/upload/342094-post2.html

as i think it would be worth doing them while you have them off?
http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/upload/573213-post6.html

What are the two items beside your new track rod arms?
http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/upload/572709-post2.html

Where abouts did you buy the lockout bar from?
http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/upload/266137-post38.html

and

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/upload/339565-post49.html

As for the search, come on, R32 rear toe angle!!:D ;)
So you didn't see this:

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/upload/40269-hicas-lock-out-questions.html

or this?:

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/upload/31365-hicas-not-hicas-thread.html

or this?:

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/upload/61336-tomei-hicas-lock.html

I'll stop now. :chuckle: ;) 'HICAS' and 'lock' as search terms seemed quite fruitful for me though. :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Tim I dont know what to say mate!!:thumbsup:
Feel like a right plonker now you have showed me all those old posts!!!
Thanks for all the help.
 

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No probs dude, hope it helped. Sorry for all the quoting previous stuff, but you laid down the challenge
in your first post and I couldn't help myself :D :

Yes i know you are going to tell me to search but i have done!!:runaway:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Very true!!
Thanks for all the help.
I am fairly sure that the R33 has different track rod ends for the hicas after looking at your pictures.
 

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I wouldn't be surprised. The R32 uses a hydraulically actuated rack, whilst the R33 and R34 use an electric system with a motor.

Shouldn't be a problem though, when you phone up for the parts just say what bits you want and what car it's for. That's all I do, I didn't order by part number, I only found those out because they were on my invoices.

To be honest I'm surprised the right bits turn up at all sometimes, I think I described my outboard HICAS bushes on the phone to Abbey Motorsport as 'the pivoty things that sit in the cast metal bit that holds the wheel, the ones that attach to the steering arms under the back'.

They knew what I meant. ;)
 

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I have the option of getting the Cusco kit for my R33, but can find next to no information about it. If I install it, what HICAS parts can I remove? I'd like to get rid of the rack and motor.
 
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