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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone

please forgive me for asking about some new turbos. I know there are a gazillion threads about it :shy:
I wasn't into turbo cars for quite some time so i'm not up to date.

I recently bought a car from here (Spec below as i can't post links now) but unfortunately the turbos are gone. both compressor wheels are damaged and one has a massive play.
What i want:
- twin setup on stock position as i won't get through our "TÜV" with a single or a top mount twin setup.
- ~600HP with potential to increase if i want to. The car ran [email protected]
- response

should i rebuild the turbos or get something else?
If new ones, what would you suggest?

cheers,
Mark

Specs taken from the sales ad here
RK Tuning 2708cc Built Engine
• N1 Engine Block (New from Nissan Japan)
• RK Tuning 2.8l (+2mm) Billet Fully Balanced Counter Crankshaft
• CP Custom 86mm Forged Pistons
• Eagle Con-Rods
• Fully Rebuilt, Ported Head with Oil Gallery Mod
• Apexi Power FC with Hand Commander
• Trust Sump Pan Extension
• HKS Twin GT-RS Turbos
• HKS Steel Head Gasket
• HKS Turbo Extension Pipes
• HKS Stage 1 Cams
• HKS Adjustable Cam Gears
• HKS Uprated Actuators
• HKS Fuel Pump
• HKS Fuel Reg
• HKS Fuel Rail
• HKS 700cc Injectors
• HKS Intercooler
• HKS Thermostat
• HKS Oil Cooler
• HKS Intercooler & Hard Pipe Kit
• HKS Powerflow Filters
• Trust Down Pipes
• Fujitsubo Legalis R Cat-Back Exhaust
• HKS EVC
• ATI Super Damper
• OS Giken Triple Plate Clutch
• Clutch Conversion Kit (From Pull to Push)
• Nismo Slave Cylinder
• Trust Triple GT Radiator
• Iridium Spark Plugs
• Splitfire Coilpacks
• Trust Rear Diff Case Upgrade
• UK Spec Gearbox Cooler
• UK Spec Diff Cooler
 

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600HP flywheel? If yes buy GT2860-5 or 2530. Cheaper, more response as RS and looks like oem.
If you are more valuable to potential you have to buy RS or GT2860-10.
 

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It's not a case of plug and play with the gtx wheels. Owen dev have billet wheels but charge 1500 pounds to fit billet wheels and for some reason only on new turbos they supply be it a -5 base unit. ATP actually machine the compressor housing and charge 300 per turbo again this is done at the time of purchase. My supplier can do it as hoc which is what I have done.

Best option is gtx2863.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
thanks for all the suggestions, i will look into these.
after talking to Austrian GTR i now tend towards the -9s even though i might not get the same power but response is more important for me
 

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^^^ what he said.....or single time :)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
well a single turbo is not an option as i need the stock look to get through our TÜV

Using the housings from the GT-RSs might no be longer an option
both housings are broken where the actuator closes
seems i now have some expensive doorstoppers :rolleyes:
 

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It's ok. Put them in the bin where they belong. Make sure you lock it and throw away the key so they can't get out!

A pair of -5's really ain't that expensive.

Do it, it'll be a totally different car to your current setup! :D
 

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I've got the 2860-10s on a fully built 2.8 and it's supposed to be producing in the region of 700bhp fly and response is good. With -5s I can only assume response would be amazing and around 600bhp fly. I would love see the difference tbh so my vote is with the -5s

Also I don't get any shuffle at all. My old gtr had stock twins with steel internals and it shuffled more than a fat penguin but I guess that's down to the mapping
 

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I've got the 2860-10s on a fully built 2.8 and it's supposed to be producing in the region of 700bhp fly and response is good. With -5s I can only assume response would be amazing and around 600bhp fly. I would love see the difference tbh so my vote is with the -5s

Also I don't get any shuffle at all. My old gtr had stock twins with steel internals and it shuffled more than a fat penguin but I guess that's down to the mapping
Noticed your post while I was at work last night. Had to wait to get home so I can post this. I've posted a few of these graphs before. I'll try and show the difference between these two very different setups.

Below are some graphs which are all on the same dyno, fuel, tyres, blah blah.

The setup of the car below was
GT Block
Tomei 2.8 (9.0:1 comp)
270 @ 10.25 cams
Nismo intercooler
E85
Stock airbox

The Pink line is -5's, green is GT RS's. When I went to the -5's I also added a Twin 3 inch exhaust and Tomei series 1 dump pipes.



Long story short, I popped that engine (oil pump failure). I had another head built by HKS and NAPREC in Japan. We also went BACK in camshaft duration to a 260 degree at 10.85mm. All else stayed the same. This was the result.



If you calculate that back, thats 632 RWHP. The turbo's have nothing left at that pressure, however, at 19 PSI it made 441 RWKW (590 rwhp). Take note of the midrange. 300 kw at 4400, 350 at 4600 and 400 from 5000.

To drive it, they're two totally different cars. I rarely rev mine past 6-6,500 RPM just because I dont need it.

Below is another example of the -5 VS RS. This car is a HKS 2.8 with 272 cams IIRC. Direct back to back. (Has since gone to GTX 63 mm turbo's)




Here is another graph for shits and giggles. Red line is GT RS's on 98 octane petrol, black is -5's.



Part selection and how they all work with each other is just important as the turbo's themselves. The GT RS's seem very mismatched. Too much comp wheel for the turbine.

A good mate of mine had RS's on his 3.0 and went back to -5's and although the RS's were good on the 3.0, the -5's were balls out S.T.U.P.I.D. quick. Any gear, any time, anywhere, they were on! I can't find that dyno graph ATM, but it is an absolute joke!

I have not run the car down the 'black dyno' yet as I have blown my OS Giken 5 speed. I'll get to that soon :).


* Sorry for the ramble but a picture tells a thousand words. I hope that clear's a few things up with "I'd love to see the difference" :).
 
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