As title, when the warranty runs out?
Thistle, I had exactly the same symptoms on mine recently and Norwich NHPC eventually tracked it down to worn front anti roll bar bushes... Two lots of £3.50 rubber bushes later, all is well and quiet. May be worth pointing your servicing provider to have a look in that direction first.I think I'll skip the 36 month service entirely and just get the geometry done and if I think the suspension is still sounding a bit clonky over low speed bumps (no difference whether on brakes or not, worse in comfort and when cold I think) get that looked at too.
Why didn't any of us think of that?!Don't these cars come with some documentation like a hand book ? doesn't it tell you in there the mileages for inspection/change on everything ?
I cant imagine why you would change at 6 months if you only do a thousand miles or so.
LOL, I cant tell if you are being sarcastic or notWhy didn't any of us think of that?!
Marky_GTSt, the point is whether to follow Nissan UK schedule, which is different to other countries and varies between model years without adequate justification.
Having reverse engineered the R35 ECM for Cobb, you may appreciate that I've read the documentation supplied with the vehicle, but am seeking views from educated owners, partly to validate my own plans. Whilst I'm not planning to sell the vehicle, myself and others will consider the views of other enthusiasts to gauge whether they are about to wreck the resale value of their vehicle by following commonsense rather than an illogical service schedule they stuck to during warranty period.
My transmission oil was changed after 8000 road miles, my engine oil is usually changed after 3000 road miles, both reaching between at least 70C from each cold start, but rarely exceeding 90C. In other words, it is absolutely babied in the best possible way and the service schedule lacks reason.
The logic behind the way the fluids are treated is that if they reach 70C, being driven gently before they do, then the engine oil in particular is not repeatedly being exposed to rich cold starts to reduce its viscosity performance, the engine is getting warm enough not to sludge, the oil is not getting hot enough to break down. The gearbox has a little more torque than the OEM intended, put through it occasionally, but only when warm.
My engine is only running 150 BHP/litre in road use. It is being tickled.