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There is a lot of conflicting info of how to do it, if you read the info on the pads it say's not to do any hard braking, just do normal braking, then people say to bed in discs to run the car to around 70mph then do a emergency brake say down to 5 mph then run and let them cool for 5 min then repeat the process again then after that run for 15 min and let cool down without stopping and not to come to a stop and put brakes on. can anyone confirm the correct way of bedding it all in?

Bobby
 

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Different pad manufacturers have different bedding in procedures. I usually see what they advise and follow that.

My XP10's came with bedding in instructions.
 

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Depends on the pad material composition.

That's why following the manufacturer's recommended procedure is the right way to go.
 

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The second part of your bedding (70 MPH) way is how we do it - plenty faster speeds though (obviously on track).
 

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I've always done the 70 > 30mph thing, not only to bed in new pads but alos to clean up used pads that have started to squeal.

works every time.

Simon
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Still split opinions on this.

Bobby
 

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I***8217;ve always been led to believe new steel discs should be used gently for a decent period of brake applications, no thermal shocks otherwise it can cause them to warp. After a few days use you then do the pad bedding in which requires the high speed stops to get a layer of pad material deposited evenly on the disc surface.
 

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I’ve always been led to believe new steel discs should be used gently for a decent period of brake applications, no thermal shocks otherwise it can cause them to warp.
I have never been told this by any of the tuners I've used and never thought to ask. Always been about the pad.

Saying that, I dont understand the logic behind it. The disc has already gone through any hardening prior to sale so I cant see any difference. It's like saying, when using a new hammer, dont hit things to hard.

Disc warping usually comes from the pads not being up for the job, generating too much heat, followed by cool down errors.
 

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I have never been told this by any of the tuners I've used and never thought to ask. Always been about the pad.

Saying that, I dont understand the logic behind it. The disc has already gone through any hardening prior to sale so I cant see any difference. It's like saying, when using a new hammer, dont hit things to hard.

Disc warping usually comes from the pads not being up for the job, generating too much heat, followed by cool down errors.
Go to apracing.com and search for disc bedding for road cars.
 

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Thanks for that, it's very interesting and after reading I had a browse for the same info for Alcon discs. Very different, more akin to pad bedding.

I will do this when I upgrade my discs.


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