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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey guys, car = R32 GTR

some of you may have seen my other thread where i addressed my concerns about an aging oem oil pump and not wanting to face an un-planned un-budgetted rebuild if/when she decides to lets go..

so.. with the decision made that its better to pull the motor the question becomes whats the best way to do a budget rebuild?

i was thinking ill leave the head alone since she`s in pristine shape, maybe a little home-done porting and polishing with the dremel and cleaning up of the combustion chambers or something simple like that.

but can someone help me get a list going of whats the bare minimum worth doing while the motor is out? heres my list for starts:

- new R34 crank
- N1 oil pump or JUN (but i don't like the idea of having to make a bigger sump etc)
- new ACL bearings
- ARP bolts
- forged pistons

and can i re-use stock rods? no ones ever heard of a stock rod being destroyed have they? or is it worth it to just get some forged rods at the same time?

- full metal gasket set including a 1.2 mm metal head gasket


and thats about all i can think of off the top of my head.. what would you guys reccomend adding to the list?

cause if i don't touch the head, or turbos or anything like that.. then it keeps the cost fairly low and manageable.

advice more than welcommed.. its essential!
 

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Dont need the metal head gasket, just use an oem one. Stock rods are fine, just replace the rod bolts.
Cheaper to put a crank collar on your r32 crank, waste of money for no gain buying a new crank.
APR bolt are not really needed, nothing wrong with the ones it has now.

Sump extension is well worth the money, as is a good oil pump. This is were I would be spending the bulk of the cash if it was you.

What power figues are you running? You may not even need forged pistons if they are low.
And what ecu do you have?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
well sir, you are very right, i didnt mentioned the important stuff!

the turbos will be 2860R-5's and the ecu will be a power FC

i definitley want forged pistons, and metal head gasket..

but ya i think stock rods are fine.

you really reccomend getting an extended sump kit + baffles? if i do that...i would want the JUN oil pump and then an oil restrictor i guess as well.

i really want to stay away from the crank collar situation and just start with a fresh crank.

i guess its not really a super cheap budget build. i mean i do have some money! lol

a new crank is key for me so is new oil pump.

you can't re-use the bolts and studs it has now can i?

the plan is to run about 1.6 bar.. so roughly 500 whp.
 

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I would definitely extend and baffle the sump and get a good pump. Its a good insurance policy because if anything is going to kill your bottom end its the standard oiling system

Crank is up to you, personally i would stay with the r32 one but im an engineer so fitting a crank collar would cost me nothing, however this is your engine we are talking about so its all about what you are happy with.

The RIPS rail engine has stock mains bolts.....
 

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You realy don't need a metal headgasket esp. if your NOT lowering the C/R with a 'thick' one.
I'd even go so far as to say the oem h/g seals more reliably.
Spend the money elsewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
ya but i deffinitley do want to go with a metal head gasket... likei said, i want to be able to run 1.6 bar to 2.0 bar with out issue. so heres my short list for a budget build, lemme know if theres anything else worth doing at the same time. if the goal is 500whp

- forged pistons (w/ new rings etc)
- oem rods
- r34 crank
- jun oil pump
- oil restrictor
- tomei extended sump + baffle
- acl bearings all over
- stock mains bolts
- arp head studs w/ metal head gasket
- new nissan full gasket set
- new silicone heater hose kit

where would i get the wrist pins and circlets and stuff for to connect the rods to the pistons... do they come with the pistons? or should i re-use the oem ones?
 

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what year is your 32 ? as the later ones have the extended oil pump drive already on the crank nose ...the same as the 33

i think it's like after feb or march 93 or near that anyway ..
 

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if your aim is 500 wheels power with 2860-5s a set of step 1 cams,or least adjustable cam pullies would be recommended and new valve springs..stock items are fine(up to 9.15mm lift)

I would definately get a deep/baffled sump..well worth the money.I would not waste money on a new crank to be honest(unless its needed)

For that power your also going to need..hardpipes, nismo afms,a pump,and a set of injectors.Stock rail,lines and fpr are fine.

And dont skimp on brakes !
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
ya for sure cams springs injectors are needed but all that can actually be done after the motor is back in

I want to focus on doin things for the bottom end first so I can drive it next summer lol

with that in mind anything else you guys would do to the lower half ?
 
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