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I was told when I bought my car that the smog test it passed during importation would be the only time I'd ever have to do it. However, laws constantly change in Korea, and I do need to think about how I'd go about making my car pass a smog test - no easy feat, as my exhaust will make your eyes water and make you look like you've got conjunctivitis - and sadly, this is not an exaggeration!
So I'm thinking - well, I'd have to recat the car, with a new cat probably. Should I reinstall lambda sensors and turn O2 feedback back on? One problem is that, when I got smogged in California, they tested the car at idle, then revved the car a bit. In Korea, the car goes on a rolling road and is driven at 40-50kph to simulate actual driving conditions.
This also leads to the basic principle of how to safely make the LEAST possible amount of power. I'd set the fuel cut limiter at, say 4000rpm. I would want to cripple the turbos - would I need to find a way to keep the wastegates forced open? Maybe remove the actuators and just install a fixed-length bolt?
To get the cleanest emissions, including NOx levels, what is the target air/fuel ratio? Mapping for cleanliness would be the most interesting map job I've ever done...I think I'd want to run a little lean, say around 15:1. I need to keep the turbos offline as much as possible because I don't want the technician trying to boost my car for even a second with that lean an AFR on a rolling road.
Basically, I just need to know the "cleanest" AFR, then map ignition and try to rig the turbos so that there's no danger of knocking.
I won't drive to the test center either - I'll flatbed it there, get it tested, then flatbed it back to the garage and reverse all that shit and get my car smelly and powerful again
And thinking about this, I give serious kudos to modern factory mappers. The Evo X the missus is getting - that's 150bhp/liter output, yet I stuck my face directly into the exhaust and smelled absolutely NOTHING!!
So I'm thinking - well, I'd have to recat the car, with a new cat probably. Should I reinstall lambda sensors and turn O2 feedback back on? One problem is that, when I got smogged in California, they tested the car at idle, then revved the car a bit. In Korea, the car goes on a rolling road and is driven at 40-50kph to simulate actual driving conditions.
This also leads to the basic principle of how to safely make the LEAST possible amount of power. I'd set the fuel cut limiter at, say 4000rpm. I would want to cripple the turbos - would I need to find a way to keep the wastegates forced open? Maybe remove the actuators and just install a fixed-length bolt?
To get the cleanest emissions, including NOx levels, what is the target air/fuel ratio? Mapping for cleanliness would be the most interesting map job I've ever done...I think I'd want to run a little lean, say around 15:1. I need to keep the turbos offline as much as possible because I don't want the technician trying to boost my car for even a second with that lean an AFR on a rolling road.
Basically, I just need to know the "cleanest" AFR, then map ignition and try to rig the turbos so that there's no danger of knocking.
I won't drive to the test center either - I'll flatbed it there, get it tested, then flatbed it back to the garage and reverse all that shit and get my car smelly and powerful again
And thinking about this, I give serious kudos to modern factory mappers. The Evo X the missus is getting - that's 150bhp/liter output, yet I stuck my face directly into the exhaust and smelled absolutely NOTHING!!