[i4dat]

I am at my wits end. Can someone help me out???

My GTR runs like crap, until it warms up. Let me try and explain what it is doing.

When the engine is cold, and I start to roll in first, just a normal take off, not WOT, the car will speed up until it gets to about 1500 rpm, then it will sputter and buck between that point and 2300 rpm. Also happens in second gear.

Now if you go wide open, or if it is at a higher RPM then this point, it doesn't do it.

When the car is warmed up, it doesn't do it. Period.

But (gotta love the but) the car will pop and burble if you stay at a steady RPM. This may be normal or it may not, I don't know.

I have tried the following in this order:

1) Cleaned AFM's - Larger RPM bracket that the sputtering would occur, started at the same rpm but went to 3000. This only did it thru one heat cycle. The next morning it returned to how it ran before I cleaned them.

2) Changed Spark Plugs - Ran better, but still there.

3) Changed Power Transistor with good unit. - No Change

Why does this only happen when the motor is cold? Is there something else I can check that only happens during the warm up cycle?

Also on a side note. This might be normal, but I noticed, after a spirited run, the left side of the hood and front wing is extremely hot to the touch. Is this a normal condition for a GTR?

Thanks for any help you can offer me.

I need a pint right about now to calm my nerves.

 

[stealth]

Nothing wrong with any of that when it's cold .Left side of car is Turbo's and yes it gets hot that side

 

[murano3]

are you waiting till the the temp is over the 70 mark before putting your foot down?. I don't go any where near boost till temps are up at operating levels.

 

[Jim27]

Yeah - sounds like thick, cold oil. Let it warm up past 70 (ideally towards 80) every time you drive it before going WOT or boosting. You might find an oil change will help a little

 

[GTRSTILL]

I think that almost every performance car I have ever owned behaves like that when its cold. Especially in the morning. My GTR is way better than my GT4 was. Just leave it to run for a little while, or get on the phone to Opie Oils in Cornwall, England.

 

[[email protected] M/S]

any one noticed where he is from? the Bahamas......pretty warm out there isnt it

I will say that the oil has nothing to do with it, do you think Nissan would of built a car that has to stand to allow the oil to warm up before it is driven, I dont think so.

Sounds to me but my crystal ball batteries are a little low, the AFM,s will be dodgy.

The other item I would try is a crank Angle sensor , these seem to muck about from cold to hot.....

 

[mava_rules]

sorry its nowt to do with thread but what the hell does WOT stand for, just cant figure it out lol been bugging me for ages.

 

[GTRSTILL]

Wide Open Throttle

 

[mava_rules]

makes sense now, thought it would be something simple
cheers

 

[stealth]

Never realised he was from Bahamas ,pop the car down to Abbey for a check over

 

[i4dat]

I only wish there were competent tuners here to check the car over.

Crap, I would settle for incompetent at this point if they could tell me what was wrong and what to change.

Its not like I can run out to my nearest Nissan Dealer and get parts. I have to order everything from outside of Nassau.

Temp wise, the average for Dec is a high of 80 degrees F and a low of 72 degrees F.

Can someone tell me if the AFM's in the RB26 are the same as a RB25? Or are they different?

And what about the Cam Angle Sensor? Is it the same for both engines?

And generally I don't wail on it until it is warm.

Its just so embarassing right now to have a GTR, and that when you go to leave someones house, it runs like complete turd.

I really need to video it so that you guys can see exactly what it is doing.

That might help out a little more than me trying to verbally explain it.

Thanks for the help though, at least I have a direction to go in.

D.

 

[kornmonkey]

This went away when I switched from 10w40 to 10w60 oil.
I still let her warm up before applying the welly - I think it's got something to do with the viscosity & reaction time of the oil - you'd have to ask Oilman about that.

 

[i4dat]

Really.... I wouldn't think oil viscosity would have that type of reaction.

But then again, I am no oil expert.

Knowing my luck though, I would doubt that this is my problem. But then again, its time for a oil change anyway.

Does anyone know how I can get intouch with Oilman so that I can ask what oil I should be using for my climate/current engine condition?

 

[kennyc]

Opie Oils

 

[Supra RZ]

I would try getting hold of another set of AFMs its also worth checking your coolant temp sensor - located in the housing where the top rad hose meets the motor..

Cheers
Nick

 

[i4dat]

Supra RZ, wow I was just about to ask if anyone thought that might be something to check out.

Does anyone know if this is a RB motor specific part or if other Nissan's use the same sensor (in case I have to replace it).

If it is RB specific, is it the same for all RB's or specific to the RB26.

Thanks.

David.

 

[jas3113]

Supra RZ, wow I was just about to ask if anyone thought that might be something to check out.

Does anyone know if this is a RB motor specific part or if other Nissan's use the same sensor (in case I have to replace it).

If it is RB specific, is it the same for all RB's or specific to the RB26.

Thanks.

David.

I believe all RB's uses the same AFM, but if you need I have a set of 33 AFM's.

John

 

[i4dat]

Thanks John. Sent you a PM.

 

[i4dat]

Ok, I checked the Ohms of the coolant temp sensor and the manual says 2.5k at 20degrees C, mines is 2.253k at 25 C.

Does this seem ok?

 

[regal]

All rb afm's are not the same, and the rb25 ONE is different.