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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just took the car out to see if its behaving itself tonight and to do all the diagnostic checks, all the checks say its ok but it blatantly isnt :( This is a bit of an essay im affraid but it is a comprehensive list of my problems.

Here is a list of my problems, some may be related to each other, some not, but I really would appreciate any help as I as tres p****d off with it.

Firstly a bit of background info. I bought the car just under two weeks ago, seemed tip top on the test drive, took a mechanic with me to check it out ( he drives a civic turbo! ). On getting it back the first thing i found was an incorrectly fitted boost controller. A Blitz dual SBC. The sollenoid had been fitted in series with the standard one! A well known UK tuner is responsible for this but no names mentioned. Driving was ok off boost or on full boost (0.95bar) but anywhere in between it made some really odd noises from the wastegate, then had a really sudden cut in boost to 0.7 bar. This would not reset without stopping the car and turning the engine off.
Anyway so I fitted the sollenoid correctly as per the instructions and set it to a gain of 5 and duty cycle of 50 for the high boost setting. Seemed fine for about two or three days, with a fair amount of driving. But on thursday afternoon I took my mate to get his car, it was perfect one second then like a switch nothing, all performance gone. It still comes on boost the same and registers the same but its just dead slow!!!
This is where my real fault finding started. Firstly did a compression test, results as follows;-
1, 7.7, 112 (front)
2, 7.6, 111
3, 7.6, 100
4, 7.5, 109
5, 7.6, 110
6, 7.6, 110
Cant remember the units hence why i have put the results from both scales. To me this seemed fine. The tuner mentioned earlier also fitted a set of HKS plugs which were in WAY to tight! But these looked ok ish.
So I put it back together and took it out again. It runs beautifully off boost but try to bring it on boost and it sounds really raw and 'angry'! Not at all smooth like it used to be. Tried with the boost controller off so it was at 0.5-0.6 and it was a tiny bit better but not right.
Anyway today I had to drive about 150 miles to my parents house (mums birthday!) and it was hideous. really did not sound healthy with any boost at all, but sweet as off boost!? Further more it has started to just cut out whilt driving, just dies nd coasts for about a second then comes back to life. This has been getting worse through the day, I struggled to do the half mile to a car park just now!! Did the diagnostics thing, fine! reset the ecu. Still does it. Tried to bring it on boost and it almost stopped dead in the road.

Anyway on to the other possibly unrelated problems;-

Tempremental oil pressure guage. It keeps on just falling off to zero (scared the s*** out of me when it first happened!) I havnt actually lost pressure though asthe warning light doesnt come on, and i know this works. Reset by stopping and turning the car off.

4wd light comes on after hard accelerating through 1st and 2nd (when I could!). Lights up just as you go into 3rd. Reset in the same way.

Lights flicker, Battery voltage guage has negative spikes which are very short and sharp but noticable. Occurs when changing throttle angle ie 0% to slightly open or held at constant speed to off. Happens most of the time, I saw the lights doing this straight away but only noticed the guage at the begining of the week.

I dont really dont know where to go now, Ive had it sugested to me that the alternator regulator rectifier unit could be partly to blame but appart from that no ideas. It has to be something electrical surely? Even if someone knows somewhere who has ealt with simillar problems before I would be gratefull.

Like I said any help at all would be very welcome. I have two other concerns, one is that my fixing buget is not very big considering how much ive just spent on the car, the second is that Im being sent to the Gulf in a couple of weeks time (I think you can guess what I do for a living from that!), so I need to sort it sooner rather than later.

Sorry this was so long :) :) :)

Billy
 

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Seems similar (but worse), to a post I put up at the same time last year. My car was really sorry for itself and I was quite depressed until one of the skyline experts looked at it and it has never missed a beat since. Sorry but the only thing that you can do is take it to someone else to look at (not the last place you went:mad: )
Dave
 

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I feel your pain.

From your multiple problems, I would say tackle one at a time, of course. The biggest one to me seems like your alt regulator, so like what was suggested to you, I would start there.

I have the same boost controler that you do, it was installed by some company called Middlehurst, are they any good? Mine seems to act like it suppose to, so I do not think I am going to mess with it, at least not until I can clear out my problem.

Does your boost act up, with your SBC off?

If your boost is there, and you are losing power. Its either fuel or spark, or timing? Maybe your timing is getting cut back some how. This is a strange one, I wish I could tell you what exactly to do to fix it, but this problem is little more indepth. Have you posted on www.skylinesdownunder.co.nz with your problem, those guys have been messing with R32s for over a decade. Pop the question to them.

Tony
 

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Billy

Good problem description.
Sounds like an electrical problem; check ground connections (like the one on the engine mount on the drivers' side and the one close to where the ignition wiring loom connector is: at the rear of the engine block).

Andre.
 

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Billysan,

You never mentioned where abouts your based so we can recomend a specialist for you, and it sounds like you really need one. It'll most likely be something simple, but really difficult to find or put the finger on exactly, and this is where the specialist will save you a fortune.

I'd recomend checking your battery voltage, with the ignition off, on, at idle, and at various rev points under load. If your alternator is going kaput, you'd best not risk driving as it could go on fire. :eek:

Now might be a good time to join the AA. Have a few drinks first, you'll be more convincing ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Cheers for the response. Um yeah joined the AA as soon as I got to my folks place yesterday ;) Im based in Portsmouth during the week but go down to east Devon during the weekends. I spoke to Nana at Option about the problem and he seems to think he can sort it but said to expect a big bill :( I know its a bit more of a trek but Ive good things from Abbey from what ive read, who would be my best bet? Just the battery voltage under various conditions like you sugested and it seemed fine, charging at about 14v and when off a nice level 12v. Another concern is that the battery is tiny! Its smaller than the one in my old Pulsar. Will it be the wrong one?

Billy
 

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Battery

Micra size:D Yes Really!
Some owners put bigger ones in though. I would not like to put one tuner over another but best advice is to ask them when they can fix it. I was waiting in queue at one tuner for 3 months and then moved to another queue and had the car there in a week.
Choose wisely;)
 

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Billy,

This isnt Skyline specific advice but applies to all cars when you have "multiple" electrical problems ...

As Andre has said, it sounds very much like a grounding point problem, as a poor earth in one place can have a knock-on effect with many of the other electronic systems in the car :(

Failing that the other suggestion of the Regulator pack on the Alternator ... as this will also affect everything :(

Good luck dude .. I have fingers and toes crossed for ya :D

lol .. I've just realised that all my post does is agree with other peoples :rolleyes:

Cheers,

Dan
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Spoke to Rod Bell today, he proved fairly resourceful. His diagnosis was a combination of the fuel pump and a couple of dodgy coils for the running problem, and a dodgy earth for the irregular voltage battery problem. Not as bad as it could have been I know but still reasuring to have an idea. Im planning on doing the spanner work myself, its not too bad a job to do the fuel pump is it? Also has anyone had any experience with coils failing before? And if so is it all of them or just a couple that go?

Cheers again, Billy
 

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Fuel pump on an R32 is dead easy Billysan, me and MattPayne removed one from his R32 when it had starting problems ...

Just be careful when you remove the main pump from the swirl-pot assembly as the plastic that they are made of is often brittle... Also take care with the little level sensor device as its quite a fiddle to wiggle it out of the tank ... Other than that it should be a breeze :)

I wish you further good luck billysan :D

Cheers,

Dan
 

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Sure the fuel pump will be easy to do, but not the first thing to tackle.

If you have a crap voltage supply, then you need to sort this first, as it could well be the source of all the problems, especially seeing as the Skyline relies on the alternator power for most electrical circuits after starting.
 

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Just a suggestion.

Sounds like a problem a lot of evo owners have with bad battery connections after servicing. Especially the flickering voltage on acceleration/deceleration.

Check the battery connections then all the earthing points on all looms. Next - alternator. Also might be worth getting the battery checked.
 

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Micra Battery

The micra battery fitted (the only one that will fit the R32 with the small terminal ends) is apparently not up for supplying the correct Amps. I have been told that i will need to change to large terminals so as to fit a larger more powerful battery as waiting and the expense of getting a skyline original would be a joke.
Dont know how accurate this info is regarding other options but as soon as i have time i will be changing the terms to get a larger battery in (Vehicle electrical experts in Aberdeen have suggested this route) otherwise it will be a new one every two/three months (keep boiling the micra ones!!).

Cheers,

Jason
 

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My battery seems to be kaput now. Luckily I keep it charged when in my garage so it always starts but I forgot to plug the optimate in last week and the car only just started (slowly turned over). Just worth mentioning an optimate will help you when the battery has had it. New terminals....ok then:)
 

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Hi all.....

Micra battery...part no 153 or 154...(was 053 or 054)...only good for the summer...
Skyline battery...part no 156.....same small terminals so no chopping required
:D

...should be available from your local friendly battery store....about £40 tops....looks just like the micra one but longer.

(also fits FTOs......)

Hope this helps

JonB

PS: you can check your voltage regulator easily...just stick a voltmeter across the battery terminals while it's running.....
....12v = alternator not charging
....13/14v = OK
...15v+ = regulator toast
(if memory serves)
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The bloke I bought my car off said he had a flow meter go duff on him, I only think one went on him but i dont know which one. Going to go and check all the earths and terminals in a bit, see what difference it makes. Another friend of mine suggested an oxygen sensor problem, what are the sympoms of a dead one of these?

Billy
 
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