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Discussion Starter #1
Can anyone comment, hopefully from experience, whether or not it's worth having the machine work done to a Standard 05U Rb26 Block to fit larger main studs.....more specifically, the 'Regular' Jun 10mm Main Stud Kit vs the Jun 12mm 'Racing' Main Stud Kit ?

I realize that OEM Main Bolts (even used) have been proven to hold quite well, but I figure since I have come this far in my build, in terms of 'not skimping' on anything....why stop now.

Is there a down-side to the 12mm stud upgrade ? such as weakening of the block and main caps from removing additional material to accomodate the 2mm larger studs ?

Thanks.
Allan
 

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ARP and tomei, being some top contenders in the aftermarket parts world stick with the 10mm size and they've been proven over 1000hp. By going to a larger hole you are losing thickness. If it were me, I'd stay with the 10mm, which is what I did, then again, I have very little power for what these are rated at.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
ARP and tomei, being some top contenders in the aftermarket parts world stick with the 10mm size and they've been proven over 1000hp. By going to a larger hole you are losing thickness. If it were me, I'd stay with the 10mm, which is what I did, then again, I have very little power for what these are rated at.
Come on Frank, I can't take a guy seriously who talked shit about JDM garbage till he was blue in the face and how certain things would be done......THEN LET SOMEONE TALK HIM INTO EAGLE RODS.
 

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By not skimping, just using the ARP studs over the std bolts would fulfill your current build view, let alone going to a 12mm stud which wont give any benefit except cost more in both the part/s and labour for machining. The other issue you might end up with is if your machine shop doesnt have the right tooling and/or competent tradesmen your new m12 mains may end up not in exactly the right spot. Ive seen that happen with headstuds before.

Side note, im pretty sure the big hp 2j's only run 10mm arp studs in their bottom end...
 

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Like said above, stick with the stock size and save your money on machining costs.

Ive built several engines with close to 800hp on stock bolts.
Im running stock bolts on mine, no prob at all.

Asim
 

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I agree, stick with stock bolts (proven reliable @ 1400hp and 10,000rpm) or if you must, just for the hell of it, go with the 10mm studs.

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I agree, stick with stock bolts (proven reliable @ 1400hp and 10,000rpm) or if you must, just for the hell of it, go with the 10mm studs.

Rob
Rob, is it fair to assume that even with that, the RB30 is at a disadvantage in terms of comparing the strength of certain items due to things being larger or heavier ?

For instance, OEM RB30 Crankshaft, same material as RB26.....does "X" on an RB30. Is it safe to then assume it can achieve "X+1" on an RB26 being less stroke and forces acting on it ? .....does that make sense ?

Same with Crank/Main Bolts ? the RB30 would be 'harder' on them than an RB26 crankshaft would be in terms of demand ?
 

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I suppose you could be right there, I can't see any way a 26 could be worse at the same rpm and power though.

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The "Standard" block will be the limiting factor not the studs ...
That's exactly what I wanted to hear. Unfortunately, I am not going to be purchasing an N1/24U block, so 05U it is, for me anyways.

As I plan to keep this car for the remainder of my life, I would some day like to get my hands on a GT/RRR Block, but they seem to be in shorter supply as each day passes.

On that note, I am going to start a new thread about Blocks......
 

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^^^ I know of a GT block for sale on the Aussie skyline forums. The block is located in Japan. The owner wants $10,000 AUS for it.
 

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I'd rather one of those billet RB blocks for almost the same money, but that's just me...
+1:bowdown1:

....But I will have the RB30 one they have coming that has the 4x4 sump mounting.

....Where did I leave that Lotto ticket?:runaway:
 

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I don't mind eagle rods. I wanted Carillo but with less than 800hp, the eagles were more than enough. That was according to one of the respectable shops in Canada. I'm running very mild power so I dun care. You're building a monster though so you need carrillo H beams that are much heavier than mine. The Eagles are rated at 1500 hp (riight). I'm sure they won't last long but they're temporary until my big engine. CP pistons too. They now own Carrillo so it can't be so bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I paid more for My Rod bolts than the Eagles are worth for Christ's sake....

I just find it funny how you change your tune once the 'dollars' start adding up. Considering you began as ordering a Genesis.....then building a 100% Tomei or some crazy ALL-JDM home-build.....and now Eagle Rods.

What's next ? Ebay shopping ?

My how the mighty have fallen.....
 

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That's exactly what I wanted to hear. Unfortunately, I am not going to be purchasing an N1/24U block, so 05U it is, for me anyways.

As I plan to keep this car for the remainder of my life, I would some day like to get my hands on a GT/RRR Block, but they seem to be in shorter supply as each day passes.

On that note, I am going to start a new thread about Blocks......
I did 2 threads about blocks with almost no response, the most of the people don't have answers or the specialist would not say, 2 weeks of reading and searching the standard block will be more than fine for even 1000hp and 2.2 bars of boost just keep it max 86.5mm or a bit less abuse even with 87mm as long as your block is not so tired and porous, older blocks had many cycles of head/cold so should be stronger. I bought the 24U at the end just for the peace of mind and most important i found it for 1800 usd almost, including delivery i am still waiting for it, it should be shipped beginning of next week so for that amount of money i didn't even think of it + since i am making a new engine is better to have a new block as well and i can have the old one stock for any case , i will have it at 87mm pistons though since i am going for stroker 2771cc.
My opinion if you want to make a proper build do it from the begin till end at once with the best products available, not necessary well known brands, if in tight budget use your own block but inspect it carefully. Rips is using all stock blocks and crank and makes 1400hp so its nothing wrong with keeping the stock just do it wisely. As for the stud kits again the same stock should be fine if you want to spent these money somewhere else, the ARP is not so expensive though so you could get a set instead for the other brands you mentioned.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well said.

See, for me, there's no guarantee that I will ever see the big power that I always dream about.....but I am building for it regardless because I don't want to be limited by anything once the motor is in the car.

I just want to build the best bottom end I can (within reason), as the cylinder head can always be taken care of easilly enough later on........although I have paid alot of attention to mine already by way of the parts that I have chosen, as I said, just in case.

My intentions since the beginning have been......and still are...... to put together an engine easilly capable of 9,500 RPM and 1,000+ HP - even though I will only run 500 HP and 8,000 RPM for the most part being that the car will remain a daily driver. However, everything that I have put together and purchased thus far is still keeping that original goal in mind.

Where I am at now is basically at the culmination of over 1.5 years of carefull shopping/planning and research and I just want to ensure that I am not sacrificing anything just to save a few hundred dollars.....or even a thousand, considering the thousands I have spent already.......in for a penny, in for a pound.

The weakest parts (on paper) that I have for my build are a used 05U Standard Block, a brand new 2007 Manufacture Date RB26 OEM Crankshaft and brand new set of OEM Main Girdle Bolts.......although thanks to those who 'push the limits' Down Under and also, those Just Off to the side of them....lol....I can clearly see that these parts may not be as weak as initially thought of ;)
 

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Well said.

See, for me, there's no guarantee that I will ever see the big power that I always dream about.....but I am building for it regardless because I don't want to be limited by anything once the motor is in the car.

I just want to build the best bottom end I can (within reason), as the cylinder head can always be taken care of easilly enough later on........although I have paid alot of attention to mine already by way of the parts that I have chosen, as I said, just in case.

My intentions since the beginning have been......and still are...... to put together an engine easilly capable of 9,500 RPM and 1,000+ HP - even though I will only run 500 HP and 8,000 RPM for the most part being that the car will remain a daily driver. However, everything that I have put together and purchased thus far is still keeping that original goal in mind.

Where I am at now is basically at the culmination of over 1.5 years of carefull shopping/planning and research and I just want to ensure that I am not sacrificing anything just to save a few hundred dollars.....or even a thousand, considering the thousands I have spent already.......in for a penny, in for a pound.

The weakest parts (on paper) that I have for my build are a used 05U Standard Block, a brand new 2007 Manufacture Date RB26 OEM Crankshaft and brand new set of OEM Main Girdle Bolts.......although thanks to those who 'push the limits' Down Under and also, those Just Off to the side of them....lol....I can clearly see that these parts may not be as weak as initially thought of ;)
Is nothing wrong with the parts you have mentioned, its the way you will make it which is the most important to give some emphasis on detail like your crank should be well balanced for example, there are a lots of small thinks you should consider study well before you start building your engine. Write a list if you want some help just to have an idea of what your parts plans are.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Write a list if you want some help just to have an idea of what your parts plans are.
Everything that I have purchased thus far is pretty basic stuff, you can see it all here:
MYBNR32.COM Ready and Waiting

I have tried to buy EVERYTHING brand new, right down to basic nuts n' bolts. The only 2 items that will be USED are the 05U Block and spare Cylinder Head that I have, both from a running motor, low compression#6 cylinder (rings/detonation suffered - already checked it all out).

This might sound a bit dirty of me, but I have been waiting patiently while others get their motors built locally to see who I want to use, in terms of a machine shop, based on THEIR results.
 

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Everything that I have purchased thus far is pretty basic stuff, you can see it all here:
MYBNR32.COM Ready and Waiting

I have tried to buy EVERYTHING brand new, right down to basic nuts n' bolts. The only 2 items that will be USED are the 05U Block and spare Cylinder Head that I have, both from a running motor, low compression#6 cylinder (rings/detonation suffered - already checked it all out).

This might sound a bit dirty of me, but I have been waiting patiently while others get their motors built locally to see who I want to use, in terms of a machine shop, based on THEIR results.
The list looks big as mine :D, we have to spent a fortune though.
It looks like you know what you want, so go for it.
I would use the 2860-5 turbos instead of the nismo ones.
-New Nissan RB26 OEM Valve Spring Seats( you mean valve seats??)
You are planing on using oversize valves havent seen any valve seats??
 
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